Beirut, Lebanon Report of what it's like to live there - 08/15/24
Personal Experiences from Beirut, Lebanon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've had previous assignments in Europe and have traveled extensively in Sub-Saharan Africa, and Southeast Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I'm from the south, but I always travel via Dulles. It's pretty simple via Frankfurt or Paris. Expect nothing less than 15 plus hours. The layovers can be along, because most of the time, there is only one or two flights to Beirut from the major hubs.
3. How long have you lived here?
I lived in Lebanon for 2 years.
4. What years did you live here?
2022-2024
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Diplomatic Mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The number of houses equals the number of USDH, so it's tight and usually at random. There is a handful of spaces that are reserved for section heads. Apartments can range from large to cramped, some come with amazing views of the Med and the Beirut Skyline (you won't get these views at the new compound). Housing is a sore point here; it is what it is. The housing board tries their best, but you could get here at a time when all they have is a small modular built for TDYers.
Layout wise they are pretty standard. The smallest houses are half mods, which would be equivalent to a downtown D.C./ NY apartment. Make sure you keep your AC on when you leave for vacation because it will get moldy.
The commute is of the best things about this place. 5-10 minutes max, you will climb some stairs though, and there is no way to avoid all of them.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There is a small kiosk on compound that has some essentials and food. It's very expensive but if you really don't feel like leaving the compound it works. Food delivery is easy but depending on the store and location it can be unreasonably long, but for the most part it works well.
There are a few main grocery stores that the embassy folk go to that are on the shuttle route: Spinnys (similar to Walmart, has everything convenient, can use a credit card), Spinnys 24 (a mini version of Spinnys can still use credit card, but the selection is smaller, but far less crowded), Maison M (has a lot of imported items, they are best for meat and seafood, they have good pre-made salads, quite expensive and also take credit card), Stop & Shop, (also expensive, high quality, has pre made meals and takes credit card), and Akikis (similar to a whole foods, they only have fruits, vegetables, and a juice bar, they have the best pre-made foods in my opinion, but they are expensive)
People also use Porkys for pork, there is also O&C, which is also very nice takes credit cards, and it is a part of the shuttle route as of June 2024.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You'd actually be surprised what you can find here, but definitely ship paper products because they are not the same quality here. As far as food, I'm not too picky and they had pretty much everything I wanted.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
As mentioned above, the food delivery services are good, the app is called Toters and they take credit card which is a big help. They pretty much deliver anything and even have a butler service where they can pick things up for you, but I've never used this. Lebanon can be very hit or miss. When the Lebanese food is good, it's out of this world good, but sometimes it's just ehh.
Sushi is seemingly ubiquitous and on every non-Lebanese cuisine menu. There aren't many good non-Lebanese food restaurants, there is some decent pizza (Tom & Mutz) and decent Indian (Al Hindi), but besides that I didn't think the other non-Lebanese foods were that great. It could have just been the places I went to though, so don't let that deter you from exploring.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing unusual, but there are spiders, and some snakes on compound, though I've never seen said snakes.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch and the newly acquired DPO. Expect packages to take 3-5 weeks to arrive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There is a cleaning mafia of sorts here, the going rate is about $50 per session and many of the cleaners offer 200 - 250/month as well. Several people have cleaners, and since they are cleared through the embassy they can come and go with ease. There are cheaper cleaners you can get, but you will have to escort them to your house.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
There's plenty of people who walk/run around the compound for exercise. Outside the compound, there are opportunities for walking/running and hiking. For hiking there are several options, and you can hike every weekend if your heart desired. There are weekly opportunities for walking/running outside the compound, and there are several long-distance runners who run on Saturdays. So, it's possible. Biking may be a bit more difficult, but I imagine not impossible.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are about 5-6 gyms. You will never be far from one!
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are not widely accepted. The majority of places that accept them are on the shuttle route, and outside of that, it's quite rare. This is a cash-based society, and everything is in USD. You will be using the cashier frequently here so bring plenty of checks. There is allegedly one ATM in the Le Royale hotel, but I've never used it or even seen it.
There are ATMs on the compound, but I believe they are explicitly for the Lebanese staff.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are a few people that go to church, so they definitely exist, and as far as I know, church moves don't count against your personal moves.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You don't need much of it. The majority of people you will interact with will have good enough English to communicate the vast majority of your needs. The embassy offers Arabic and French classes for those who are interested.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be next to impossible. Inside the compound, there are a lot of stairs, but there are no ramps that I am aware of. The country overall is also not set up to handle those with physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Armored vehicles only. It's nice to be driven around, especially when you observe the Lebanese driving culture.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
No cars allowed! You wouldn't want to drive one here anyway.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It is not good, the speeds aren't close to what they are back home. You may get different speeds depending on where you live. It is metered, so you will have to watch your consumption, because you will be charged for going over the amount. It can be expensive, as of December 2023 it is $65 for 200gb, and that may go up. Be prepared for your speeds to be slow when it rains, or high traffic time i.e. around 5-6 p.m. It is manageable though, download games, movies etc, and you should be fine.
The good news is, home internet has just been deployed, the speeds aren't blazing, but it is fast enough to stream, and the connection should be reliable. The project is in its infancy, so it's hard to say if it will be a major improvement, but we are hoping for the best!
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You will be issued a phone, and that should be all you need. If you need another sim card, you can get one at alfa, but that process is not fun and once you get it, you have to pay taxes on your phone so that it is registered with the government. Google fi does not work here, so you will be relying on your work phone a lot off compound. You only get 20bgs/ billing cycle, so use your data accordingly!
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are some vets and a grooming service that is quite popular with the embassy personnel. I'm not really sure of the quarantine rules, as I don't have pets. Management is on top of all of this though and can get you the information you need. Many people adopt here, be it dogs or cats. The compound has a few cats, that several people feed, so if you're a cat person maybe you can adopt one of the compound cats.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most spouses work for the embassy. There is always a need for escorts. I'm not sure about other jobs, but I do think if a spouse wants to work, there will be opportunities for them. There is no bi-lateral agreement to my knowledge, and I've heard of some spouses teleworking.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are some beach cleanup events and things of that nature. These events depend on several factors, but if the conditions are right, they can exist.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Anywhere from suit and tie formal to casual. It's the middle east so it gets hot. The dress is a bit relaxed in the summertime.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
We live behind a compound surrounded by barbed wires and armed guards. Our security situation is fragile. The situation is also fluid and any move outside the compound is subject to scrutiny and cancellation amid a change of circumstances. The Bekaa valley, Tripoli, and everything south of the airport are generally off-limits to us regardless of the situation.
You are allotted some personal moves, and there is also a shuttle service that runs in the immediate neighborhood. There are also CLO moves which are nice way to meet people when you are new.
It sounds daunting, but you can get out. And you can get out often. You will have to plan ahead and stay compliant.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We have the "Beirut Belly". It gets everyone and there is no way to avoid it. Even if you cooked all your meals at home, you'd still get it. It's so common place, that your absence is not questioned when you say you have stomach issues. You can do some medical things here, the big one being dental, anything else you'd probably be put on a plane. Our medical team is pretty good and are willing to help.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is in the middle. You can see the thick lines of pollution pretty clearly in the summer when there's no wind/rain. So far it hasn't really impact anyone's health though.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
The servers generally listen to you and respect your food allergies.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
You definitely get a bit frustrated if you don't leave in between R&Rs. Please try and get out during long weekends. You have Turkey, the gulf, and direct flights to Europe in the summer. You really don't realize how much not being to just walk around and not have a curfew can put a damper on your mental health. Sure we have a great community and we all have fun here, but if you stay here too long it can certainly get to you. This place is not conducive to a healthy work-life balance, so you will definitely always feel like you are at work.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summers are hot, winters are cool and wet.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are no kids and no schools at post.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I imagine it is somewhat big, depending on your job you may engage with expat community often or not at all. They do have diplo drinks which is a good way to break into that community. I can't speak to the morale, but I know they are living a bit more freely than we are.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The Tango (compound bar), CLO events, CLO moves, house parties, shuttle etc. You will get to know everyone at some point!
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It can be good for all. There are no kids here, we aren't sectioned off by the families and the singles. Beware of those who are "geographically single" though.
Dating locally can be done but can be difficult given the socioeconomic issues in Lebanon at the moment.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It can be, it depends on the job you have. If you are of southeast Asian descent or of African descent, you could potentially be discriminated against. They can usually tell that we are embassy personnel or at least American. However, there have been incidents of discrimination towards darker skinned Americans, but they are generally few and far in-between. Lebanese are generally very friendly and hospitable.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Inside the compound is fine. The people of Lebanon generally have a "keep it out of the public eye" attitude. The government is not accepting towards the LGBT+ community and go as far cutting out scenes in movies or axing the movies altogether. However we have several LGBT community members and couples here, so I don't think their stances affect your life much.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Hah! Yes to all three. There isn't enough time in two lifetimes to go over all these issues. Given that you are embassy personnel you should avoid most of these issues. "Should" being the operative word.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Paragliding in Jounieh, meeting some lifelong friends, spending time at the beach clubs. Wineries and more wineries.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Wineries are a definite must, there are some amazing restaurants that overlook the med. Paragliding is super fun as well. These are by no means "hidden" but, check out the brunch's for Ixsir, and Ai. You have to eat at Em Sheriff at least once. For beach clubs, definitely Nanaya, Salt, Butler's beach club (the nicest and most expensive), and Eddie Sands. You should definitely see the Cedars of God, go snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and skiing in January/February. People have also gone diving, don't know if would trust that but it's been done.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
They do have some cool artwork like mosiacs and what not. They also have a lot of cedar artwork. People have gotten furniture made here as well. There is a pretty good tailor here, but he is like right next to the no-go zone, so you may need to find someone else.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You live where you work you can wake up 30 minutes before you need to be in the office! The money is definitely a nice bonus as well.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That it wouldn't be as bad as I had imagined.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but it is not for everyone. Honestly, I thought it was a privilege to live here. I really enjoyed my time here; despite the numerous times I was frustrated about how things worked in the country. Many people return to Lebanon either as an assignment or as a tourist, and while there are several places in the middle east that are "better" on paper, no other middle eastern country really compares to Lebanon in my opinion.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
bad attitudes, and separation of work and personal life
4. But don't forget your:
swimsuit
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Nothing comes to mind really.
6. Do you have any other comments?
This post is what you make it! If you want to stay inside and go from work straight to spinneys and then back and rack up the money you can do that. If you want enjoy Lebanon and go out every Friday/Saturday night (pending the move situation) you can do that.
