Kuwait City, Kuwait Report of what it's like to live there - 12/17/13
Personal Experiences from Kuwait City, Kuwait
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. A few in Europe and Africa. 1st experience in the Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Houston. Typically about 15-20 hours - Houston to Europe - Europe to Kuwait. Oor Houston to Dubai - Dubai to Kuwait.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years 10 months. Still resident.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Energy Project.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most professionals are in high-rise apartments near the beach, small villas (houses and duplexes), or subdivided Kuwaiti Villas (very large houses, Kuwaitis often live with extended families in huge mansions and when move to a newer place in a trendier neighborhood subdivide).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything at again maybe a 25-50% premium. Co-ops are local subsidized stores with more reasonable costs but fewer western favorites. With a little looking around you can find almost everything you'd find in U.S. except beer, wine, and hard liquor. Beer and wine are freely available and not too bad, especially the good German-brewed stuff.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Get's occasionally cold in winter. Didn't have a heavy jacket.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All the American chains, and I mean ALL of them at maybe 25-50% higher cost. Fast food is just a little higher. Lots of great, reasonable ma and pa places. Kuwaitis marry all sorts of foreigners and sometime buy their wife a restaurant to run with her relatives or guest workers to cook her favorite recipes e.g. Mexican, Chinese, Ethiopian, Lebanese, Iranian, you name it.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not bad. Few mosquitoes but occassional but very persistent flies.They come and go depending on heat and draught.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DHL for packages. Letters through a corporate mail drop.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Reasonable. 4-5 per hour for temporary workers. Slightly lower for poor English, higher for good English.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Many reasonable modern gyms, both stand-alone and associated with the big western hotels.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Safe and ubiquitous kiosks.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Two large Roman Catholic churches on either end of the city. Numerous small protestant churches with American, English, Phillipino, and Nigerian pastors out of converted villas or shopping mall conference rooms. Actually Arabic Christian Church too for Coptic Egyptians and I think Lebanese, Armenians, etc.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, but you are treated better if you know a few social phrases in Arabic. English is a quasi co-official language, especially in the government and business world.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Pretty decent in the modern restaurants and malls. Just stay away from the old outdoor soukh's and poorer immigrant ghetto's.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains and buses are dirt cheap. Taxi's cost medium range (it's a small country, about the size of New Jersey. You can ride across the whole country for about US$25).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Decent roads but terrible drivers. Bigger is better (for safety). Note that gas is 80 cents per gallon so don't worry about your bill. Foreigners get socked with import fees so just buy when you get here from a Kuwaiti dealer. Just a bit more than USA. So many expats get sent out on short notice - lots of good deals to be had for used cars - maybe even cheaper than USA. Especially ones bought for wives who were afraid to drive them much with all the reckless drivers. So you might find a 5-year old car with 30,000 kms.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Kind of high per monthly contract, decent per yearly contract. Not very high though. They have theoretical high rate plans but local infrastructure in your neighborhood won't let you take advantage.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
3 or 4 good operators.Reasonable.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
A few in the American and British consulate and schools. For trailing spouses it's much easier if they have either Arabic or a academic specialty at BS level or above. Pretty hard to compete at menial with hard-working Egyptians, Sudanese, or Lebanese who know the language better or Indians or Phillipinos who will work for less.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Pet shelter a big one. At your kid's school. Some charities for the poor Sub-Continental construftion workers - collecting winter coats, food relief, etc.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Very informal (but I work at an oil field). I think in the government offices, it's suit and tie (maybe more formal than in the U.S.). Don't think smart casual has caught on so it's Dishdashi's (robes) and suits.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Seems like no crime whatsoever but I read about occasional crimes of passion in the newspapers. Usually teenagers drunk, road rage (horrible driving the biggest security risk) fights, bad home-made liquor. No major gang violence, little firearm violence despite many Kuwaiti's being Dove Hunters (see them along the side of the road). An indication, big outdoor soukh's often have a money changing area. No elaborate booths with locking doors and bulletproof glass and windows and little slots. Just tables piled with cash (probably several thousand $'s) of various currencies. No cops in sight. However nobody messes with them. Can you imagine this in Houston or New York?! I suspect this is because of the justice system. Most Kuwaitis are too rich to bother, expats would be stupid to give up jobs paying higher than their homeland to be deported and banned from return or, for serious violent crimes, be thrown in prison for life with no appeal.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No malaria or yellow fever. I've had some minor injuries and was fixed up fine. do see rich Kuwaitis go to Europe and U.S. for specialized cancer treatments, etc. Lots of foreign specialists sort of parachute through and advertise for a few months and go home. I think sort of luck of the draw if you get real good treatment or real bad treatment for difficult conditions. They do have many modern hospitals, both public and private. Very good socialized medicine for all permanent residents (not just citizens) for the public hospitals and clinics.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Rotten egg smell near the refineries. You can catch a bad wind occasionally depending on where you live. 5 or 6 sandstorms stir up allergies. Usually the fine dust settles by about the 2nd or 3rd day. Pretty decent otherwise (however I don't live or work anywhere near a refinery).
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
May to September is very, supernaturally hot - like Death Valley hot. It can be 130F a day or two a year. Weeks at 115-120F and lows in the 90sF! It's very dry though on days when it's so hot. It can actually feel worse when winds blow from the Gulf of Arabia rather than across the Arabian Desert. Then it's 95-105F but 80% humidity and stickily awful.
October and November are wonderful. March and April are wonderful. Like normal dry Mediterranean summers in Southern California or Italy. 80-90F highs, 50-65F lows. Dead of winter isn't bad - December-February - but very changeable. Almost never below freezing - maybe 30F one or two days a year way out in the desert. A typical January week will have 3 days in the high 50s, 2 days in the low 60's, 2 days in the mid-40s and you'd think you were in Siberia with everybody getting out their fur coats.There is a surprising amount of rain - not all day but pretty good gullywashers that can cause local flooding because of atrocious drainage built into roads and building developments in a usually dry place.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No direct experience. I know for a fact there is no High School Football (American Style). Therefore my Junior/Senior class son stayed in Houston with relatives and didn't come with us. I haven't heard major complaints from coworkers. It seems OK getting into American and British Uni's from the American and British schools. They have sporting competitions in other Gulf states and even southern Europe (only a handfull of schools in this small city state).
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge (more than 2/3 of 3 million population). Very variable. Among Americans they usually either love it or hate it. Haters are usually folks on first assignment or those who have only been posted to Europe. It's one of those 'enjoy the good parts and ignore the bad parts.' Getting to know a few locals really helps. If you don't reach out, they can seem a little stand-offish or arrogant but some are very open, interesting people once you get to know them.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Movies. Eat out with friends at very good restaurants. Bowling, Target shooting.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I'd say fine for families, married couples, and single men. Single women aren't always happy. Most Western single men are locked up on military bases or oil guys on month on/ month off buried in their work. No clubs or much opportunity for social life if you are single. Single men seem OK as there are plenty of expat SE Asian women, a few European and American teachers and embassy workers, etc. Opportunities with Middle Eastern women is possible but highly dangerous.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I'm a straight married guy but I don't think you'd want to be too open or outrageous anywhere in the Middle East if you were gay. Ironically, straight men here are very free and affectionate with each other here compared to USA and kiss twice and hug on greeting, walk along talking holding hands, etc. I think actual gay acts and crossdressing are illegal and you could be arrested.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
All kind of subtle tiered ethnic things. It's not really racial because Kuwaitis are very variable in skin color from light Meditteranean olive to medium-brown. But all kind of gradations from Islamic (preferred) to Christian (OK) to Hindu/Budhist/Eastern (only tolerated because they like the hard workers) to Jewish or Atheist (better not let anybody know or you will be thrown out). We even have a few churches for open worship of Christianity but other religions have to be in private unmarked houses.
There is also a varying list of preferred/not-so-preferred ethnicities. Hierarchy is basically : Kuwaiti->Saudi->other Arab (Egypt,Jordan,Sudan,Syria)->other Muslim (Iran,Pakistan, Indian Muslim)->non-Indian Muslim->Phillipino and other East Asian->on the out's because of recent history (Palestinians for siding with Sadaam; Pakistani's for Taliban and sheltering Bin Laden). However, this list changes constantly and I may be out of date. Also some of the lower-ranked folks are personally elevated by being here for generations - sort of honorary Kuwaitis without the extra pay or social welfare benefits. Unlike the USA, being born here doesn't make you a citizen. You must have ancestry dating back to the 1930's or very high-level (like Emir's family) sponsor.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Camel riding on Failaka Island, riding on my new Kuwaiti friend's speedboat at very high speed across Kuwait Bay and buzzing the shoreside restaurants, camel racing at the track, Grand Avenues Mall window shopping at an indoor "Rodeo Drive" (not buying). The U.N. international nature of the place (dozens of countries' nationals working here; more than Kuwaiti)
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
See above.
Also, Dune Buggy rental. Sea Doo rental. Scuba and skin diving off reefs (not really up there with Red Sea or Caribbean, though).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Shisha pipes. Fancy lamps. Furniture (Kuwaitis' don't make cool carved chests and furniture anymore but lots of small shops building custom stuff manned by Sub-Continentals).
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Foreign service premium. Arabic culture. Vacations to Europe, Africa, and Asia are much easier than from America. Very decent comfort and safety for the Middle East in our perilous time.
10. Can you save money?
Yes. But be careful about foreign travel and the luxury stores. You can get bored and blow half a months' paycheck easily.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How much fun it could be but how you need a lot of patience to get use to the culture and how it works. It's very deceptive because it looks superficially like an American city but the real culture and modus operandi is quite different. It's also sort of a democracy but then sort of an authoritarian state. It takes a while before you feel comfortable about what you can get away with. Turns out it's pretty laid back - especially compared to neighboring Saudi.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It turned out much better place than I expected.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ski outfits and parkas. It's flat as a pancake and not very cold. For women - their string bikini's. You probably won't get arrested but you don't want to hear the catcalls and folks that think you are a "working girl".
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, sense of humor.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
on Red Addair and the other wild well fighters puting out the wells after Sadaam set them on fire upone being thrown out by coalition forces.
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Small Kingdoms
by Anastasia Hobbet. It's good because it has multiple characters of Kuwaiti, American, British, Indian background etc as well as of varying statuses e.g., from doctor to maid.
Kuwait Complete Residents' Guide
(multiple authors) - available at malls and Amazon
I don't know the name, but a young Kuwaiti author one the major "Pulitzer Prize" equivalent to the Arabic Books in 2013. It might be out in translation soon.
7. Do you have any other comments?
It's definitely not paradise but good money, good food, safe, and lots of interesting people and culture. You'll have to travel to neighboring countries like Lebanon, Egypt, and Turkey for fabulous scenery. I plan on staying for as long as my company lets me. People are very affected by dust allergies and it's hard for single women (not to say it's impossible, just less fun) - they will have more challenges.
