New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 09/26/20
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Delhi was our 5th post. We'd been in Lagos, Lisbon, Moscow, and Mexico City before that.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC. Flights were around eight hours up to Europe, then another seven to eight Dulles. I usually broke up the flights with an overnight in London. You can fly direct on United from Delhi to Newark but it's a hellacious 14 or 15 hour flight that I found to be uncomfortable and interminably long. If you can swing first class, though, that may be the way to go.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We had a big, stand-alone house in what was arguably one of the nicer neighborhoods not too far from the Embassy, but if you saw it you would think it were a derelict dump. Stray dogs and trash outside the walls of the house, street vendors, stagnant puddles, dirt, dust, general nastiness. Inside the walls, it was better, but the house was old and had all kinds of issues from the mundane (ant infestations and cracked wall paint from moisture) to the bizarre (at one point we had water pouring out from our light fixtures in the living room, which I'm pretty sure is not safe). Bedrooms were small, living spaces were large. Kitchen was adequate. All homes are hooked to generators, which are needed since the power cuts almost every day, multiple times a day. The generators are the size of a small bus and sit in your driveway. They are diesel, so when they start up, they sounds like a jet airplane outside your house and spew black soot until the power comes back on. Homes also have water wells for truck deliveries of water if/when city water supplies cut (which also happens fairly frequently).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find anything for a price, but you'll have to hit a few markets and several shops/stores to get it all. Most people have drivers who do all the shopping for them - zipping around to the baker, then the butcher, then the fruit stand, then the store, than some small shops to collect everything. Local stuff (fruits, veggies) are cheap but very dirty so need to be soaked, washed, peeled, refrigerated. Imported stuff can be pricey and/or expired.
3. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are several nice, upscale restaurants in Delhi - most are associated with the 5-star hotels. So going out to eat in a hotel is a thing there. There are other nice restaurants that cater to the expat crowd, but those are more of a gamble in terms of whether or not you'll get sick. It's always a gamble, frankly. That said, the nice places are really nice and tasty. There are also fast food places like KFC, McD, Dominos, etc, but quality is really, well, it's fast food. And there's no beef in India, so the burgers are chicken or veggie.
4. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Yes, it is a constant battle. Mosquitos carry dengue, which is a real problem in Delhi even among the expats and diplomats, as well as malaria to a lesser degree and chikengunya (sp?), etc. Ants, cockroaches, etc, are also prevalent. We had our home sprayed a few times during our 3 years to keep them at bay.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy mail system worked well.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is cheap. We had a maid, cook, driver, gardener, etc. That said, you'll go through several people before you assemble the right team of folks who are competent and trustworthy. We had four drivers before we found one who wasn't giving us heart attacks and motion sickness every time he got behind the wheel.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has a nice gym, which everyone uses. Local gyms are crowded and stinky, and surprisingly not cheap.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Using ATMs at established banks is ok. Embassy has an ATM on site. Credit cards at nicer places is ok. In local shops, no.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English was fine - having Hindi would be very helpful, though, especially for dealing with people in shops, taxis, etc.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I can't even imagine. It would be a disaster in my opinion.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Metro system is good but crowded. Taxis are safe, if official (for men). Tuk tuks are everywhere and safe for men. Women need to be careful if they are alone no matter what they use. Rape is disturbingly common and happens even to expats.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Most common car is a Toyota minivan. Get it locally (right-hand drive). They can take a beating (and will!), can be fixed cheaply everywhere, and the drivers all know how to drive them. Don't bring anything expensive, valuable, flashy, or exotic.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
I think it's better now. When we moved to Delhi in 2014, we were getting 3mps. Took an hour just to download a song. Speeds are decent now and prices are ok.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Many options for service providers but towers are overloaded given the huge population of the city, so calls drop all the time. It is usual/expected to be cut-off mid sentence and need to call someone back. Happens all the time. Any unlocked cell phone will work.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It's a huge embassy so there are a good deal of options for EFMs in the mission. Locally, not sure. You'd need good contact/connections or find something that could be done remotely (bearing in mind the bizzare 10.5 hour time difference).
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suits and ties, which is a head scratcher given that temps from April to August can be upwards of 115 degrees F. Roads melt in the late spring from the heat. Embassy attire is business, though LES can wear saris, etc. Don'f forget the most important accessory - and N95 mask for the air pollution. It's off the charts horrendous almost year round. I had four to five masks that I rotated depending on the occasion.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Rape is a real and existential problem for women and girls. There were articles about rapes in the newspapers almost every day, which did include rapes of tourists and expat women. If you have a teen girl who will be at post, bear in mind she will not have a 'normal' teen experience (i.e., going to the mall with friends or going out at night) without putting herself at high risk unless she takes appropriate precautions. Same with female officers/spouses. Other than that, lots of petty crime like pick-pocketing, etc.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Air quality is apocalyptic - see below. Aside from that, dengue and malaria are real concerns, as is (of course) Delhi Belly. Food is, generally speaking, contaminated with germs that will give you all kinds of gastro issues. Even if you are meticulous about washing, peeling, soaking cooking, there is no warding off the occasional and inevitable bout of diarrhea, etc. Same with water quality. Water out of the tap must be processed through a distiller before it can be consumed. Street food is a game of Russian roulette. Medical care at modern private hospitals can be ok, and the Embassy maintains a list of specialists they use. There is a health center at the Embassy with doctors and nurses who can handle routine health issues. Anything serious requires a medivac to London or Singapore, though. You'll need lots of shots to go to India, for good reason.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
While we were in Delhi (through 2017), it topped the UN's World Health Organization rating as "the most polluted city on earth" for air pollution. Beijing, for comparison's sake, wasn't even on the top 20 list. 13 of the most polluted cities are in India. The air pollution is so bad it's hard to describe. And it lasts from October to March (in the 'hazardous' zone), improving to just 'Unhealthy' during the other months. I could count on one hand the number of days that the air quality index was rated as "good" in any given year. On the worst days, we couldn't see the neighbor's house across the street through the grey, acidic haze. The smell (sort of like burning graphite) gets into everything. The Embassy provides 4-5 industrial sized air filters for all residences, but they help marginally. They can bring the air quality from hazardous to moderate, but they don't get rid of the smell. And on really bad days, they can't keep up with the pollution so levels remain dangerous even indoors. If you like being outdoors, running, tennis, hiking, biking, camping, canoeing - anything like that...forget it! I kept my sanity by hitting the gym like a hamster every day.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
If you have breathing problems (asthma, allergy-induced asthma, etc) - think twice. Per above, the pollution is palpable. Re: food allergies, you can't rely on local restaurants to provide accurate info on whatever is in any given dish, so be alert.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Delhi would have blazing hot springs (can hit 120 degrees), humid but cooler rainy-season summers, and mild (even pleasant) falls, and chilly (sweater-weather) winters, but the apocalyptic air pollution makes it all just pretty miserable. The rains wash out the air, so you get some relief in August/September, but roads can flood badly so getting around the house with traffic is a nightmare. Winters should be nice but that's when thermal inversions trap the pollution at ground level so the air quality is at its worse.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American Embassy school is top notch. People put up with a lot and extend just to keep their kids in that school. That said, the air issues have caused some embassies to shorten tours and families to avoid Delhi as a post, so when we left in 2017 the school was dealing with some financial fallout that could impact future quality/hiring, etc,
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
My kids played tennis outside at the school with air pollution masks on. Not the most comfortable, but it worked. The school has indoor basketball courts, a track, lap pool, soccer fields, etc. Great facilities all around. The Embassy has a pool, tennis courts, and baseball diamond, as well.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. Morale varies quite a bit. People who are able to overlook the chaos of constant gridlocked traffic and horrific air pollution enjoy the exoticism of living in Delhi. Others curtail due to quality of life issues. The workload is generally good and challenging and rewarding, but of course that doesn't always help spouses and family member.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of clubs, groups, bars, opportunities to host events, meet at restaurants, etc. The social scene is good and Indians are welcoming and friendly.
3. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Best part about being posted in Delhi, for us, was getting out of the city to explore the rest of India. Trips river rafting down the Ganges in Rishikesh or hiking in the Himalayas up north were amazing, as were weekend escapes to the beaches of Goa or traveling to other cities (Mumbai, Chennai) to see the sights.
4. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Tons of handicrafts, artworks, and antiques - some museum quality for a price - at markets and shops all over the city. Also, carpets, carvings, brass ornaments, gold jewelry, etc. Lots to buy in Delhi and around India.
5. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The school was fantastic. The work at the Embassy was high level. You can get around the region (e.g., to Singapore, UAE, Malaysia, Thailand) relatively easily and cheaply. Trips around India are also easy and fun.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Had I known how bad the air would be, we would have changed assignments.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No way in hell.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Bike, running shoes, skis, canoe, tent, anything for the great outdoors.
4. But don't forget your:
N95 or N99 air pollution mask.
