New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 09/06/14
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have lived in South Asia, SE Asia, and South America off and on for a couple decades.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Non-stop flights to Delhi from Newark (United) and Chicago (Air India) (both Star Alliance carriers) are available, plus lots of connections through most European cities.
Some other airlines are starting up non-stop service from the U.S. to Delhi.
3. How long have you lived here?
3 years, from 2011 to the present.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing is on 2 separate compounds plus various neighborhoods around the city. Commuting time ranges from 30 to 40 minutes depending on location and traffic at that time of day. Housing is generally adequate, though yard space is at a premium in most places. Housing assignments appear to be somewhat arbitrary depending on available properties. Life on the 2 compounds is much different than living elsewhere--some love it, some don't.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are available, but due to local Indian bureaucracy and anti-foreign sentiment, multi-brand retail stores have not been able to offer expats the convenience of shopping in stores that South-east asian countries offer. That being said, there are a few stores that are trying, including "More" and "Big Bazaar." Otherwise, you may have to go to several different stores to get everything on your shopping list.
Bring some non-perishable items in your shipment. Cost of some food items purchased locally can be expensive. Some folks never leave the Embassy housing compound and do all of their shopping in the commissary at inflated prices--there are plenty of options for those who are adventurous. Because of recent Government of India additional restrictions and grievances, getting reliable food shipments has become more difficult.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You can get most things through the pouch via mail, but liquids, flammables and some batteries will get returned to the sender. You also cannot easily use the pouch for outward bound mail. The commissary has a service, with extra fees. Bring good quality toiler paper, peanut butter, and some seasonings from home.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots of fast food restaurants, and many boutique restaurants are available for any taste. Prices are mostly reasonable. A foodie club meets periodically to try new places. Be aware that many foreign dishes are Indianized with lots of local spices and seasonings, so manage your expectations.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Dengue and malaria carrying mosquitoes are the biggest problem. Standing water is the main culprit. Each year at least half a dozen members of the Embassy or school community come down with Dengue. Some are flown to Singapore for treatment.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Via the diplomatic pouch, though it can take up to 3 weeks to get items in the mail, so planning ahead is helpful.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is plentiful, though you may have to try two or three candidates for a while before settling on a good match. Cost is reasonable for a developing country. Check with the community liaison office for advice on wages and benefits.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. The Embassy has a good gym and for members. Others are available around the city.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We use an no-foreign-transaction-fee Visa credit card all the time and have had non troubles.
Also, our ATM card from back home works well at all ATM machines here and does not charge any additional fee--the exchange rates are the same as cashing a check at the Bank of America counter at the Embassy. You can also cash US$ checks at the same location for conversion into local currency. Getting US$ cash though is restricted--something about India being concerned with foreign cash flows.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Several denominations have English services, including a non-denominational Christian fellowship near the Embassy community. Also, Catholic services at the Vatican nuncio, and an Adventist English congregation near the Fulbright house. There may be others.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not required, since many people know some degree of English. However, that being said, a little Hindi goes a long way, so try to learn a few phrases--it will open doors and friendships. Knowing the local language has had a positive impact on our time in India.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
New Delhi is not easy to navigate for people with disabilities. Wheelchair-bound individuals would have a hard time even getting into the Chancery much less around Delhi.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The Indian railway system is generally safe and affordable, but better for women to travel with a male companion. Take first class for a better experience. The current Ambassador travels by train--much to the adoration of the press and public. It's a great way to see the country.
Taxis are safe and ubiquitous--bargain on the price beforehand, or use the meter.
Again, safety for women is the main concern.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Most types of cars are available, or bring your own right-hand-drive vehicle. Summer time is when most cars are available for sale. Roads are okay in Delhi but traffic is a problem and drivers do not follow the rules. Getting parts for certain American vehicles may be difficult. For many families, Toyota Innovas are popular here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it is available, and cost is reasonable. Sign up for a plan that suites your needs. Wifi available. If you have a 220V long-range router, it may be better than the low-quality one that you buy with the internet plan.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Prepaid SIM cards are available but take a couple days to get activated. Bring a local friend and a copy of your passport.
Make sure your U.S. smartphone is unlocked, so you can use it here. Pricing for Mobile & Data service is very competitive here, but due to Indian bureaucracy and restrictions, only 2G and 3G is available.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine, but plenty of paperwork in the U.S. needs to be done in coordination with GSO before purchasing air tickets.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Difficulty in obtaining a work permit makes this off limits for most serious jobs. Check the CLO's FAMER report for the typical range of in-house opportunities.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty of opportunities for everyone. Check around once you are on the ground.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Generally modest, especially in public, to avoid harassment.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Home grown and radical extremism is a growing problem, and India has become a target for terrorists. Stay tuned to Security Office guidance for timely updates to avoid trouble. Since the Government of India has removed the security barriers around the Embassy in December, American staff and families are at greater risk walking between the two compounds. Little seems to have been done by India to provide security. Also, violent rapes against women is a trend in Delhi and India. Women and girls may not be safe traveling alone or even with a male companion. Several high profile rapes and murders have occurred in the past 2-3 years. Visit www.travel.state.gov for the official line on security for American citizens in India.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
"Delhi Belly" and respiratory problems are the main concerns. As mentioned earlier, the air pollution has become the number one health problem here, and also brings down morale. No serious solutions have been offered yet, but the matter is being given consideration.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is dangerous. The Embassy has recently started an air quality monitoring program and during several months of the year, the air quality was hazardous or worse. Recently the air pollution level has surpassed Beijing, which resulted in lots of finger pointing in India. Check the Embassy's home page for a link to the latest air quality data, and hold your breath...
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Delhi winters are pleasant but with horrible air pollution. Spring and autumn are short. Summer is hot (120F+ degrees), then hot & humid (humidity around 80% in June-September).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American Embassy School and British School are the most common ones for expats and operate at an international standard of education. The American Embassy school is one of the best American international schools in the world, and helps draw high-caliber international professionals to serve in New Delhi.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, the Embassy community association operates the Apple school day care, and some folks send their kids to "Little Senators" as an alternative. Some critiques have arisen about safety and quality of attentiveness at the Apple School but I do not have first hand experience.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, the Embassy school has plenty of programs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big community. Morale is okay but varies depending on who you ask. Some people face harassment from the local authorities from time to time, with varying and unpredictable regulations, restrictions, and fines. This tends to bring morale down.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a good city for all types of family configurations. Those who are sensitive to air pollution should do their due diligence.
3. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Caste and perceived social hierarchy are alive and well in India. Without saying too much here, many people are very conscious of their own level and rank in society with the predictable outcomes.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling within India, you can enjoy Himalayan treks, snow, and there are deserts, beaches. Travel by train is fun and fairly fast as well.
Cuisine--there are a wealth of choices. The international food scene is picking up slowly but it's hard to get true foreign flavors without being "Indianized" with masala and local spices.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The list of interesting/fun things to do in Delhi is amazing, and there is more than could be condensed into these pages. Check out some good online advice and guide-books. There is something for everyone. New Delhi is a big and ancient city, with tons of opportunities. Guided walking tours are a good way to see things during the cooler season.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Travel, carpets, artwork and local hand-made goods.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Traveling, culture, cuisine.
8. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
There is more to India than meets the eye. Even with prior India experience, we learned more about the complexities and subtleties of Indian culture, history, and bureaucracy.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, we would still come here, but with a better understanding of the local challenges.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Assumptions about India.
4. But don't forget your:
Sun tan lotion, mosquito repellent, and a positive attitude.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006TQVWDS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B006TQVWDS&linkCode=as2&tag=thesunspousunder&linkId=ITREPTHNJCZMJF5D. It is available on Amazon and in the myriad book shops around Delhi.
