New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 09/03/14
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Pretty much, except for limited study abroad during college.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC area. Connected through London to New Delhi.
3. How long have you lived here?
One month.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Depends on where you live but traffic can be a real issue in New Delhi. Not too bad for me, about 15 minutes going to work and 20-25 minutes going home. Depends on when you leave. Rush hour tends to be closer to 9 am in the morning and 5:30 or 6 pm in evening. You can beat the rush if you leave home at 7:30 am.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
This is why hiring a driver (for about US$225/month) and a good housekeeper (for about US$250-300/month) is very important because they know where to go and what to buy. Just tell them what you want and how much they can spend, and they will go get it or take you with them to get it. Cost of foods that Indians normally eat is not expensive, but the cost of your normal American foods will be at least 25%-50% more expensive and generally isn't great quality. But if you have a housekeeper who can cook, she will make really great foods for you.
There are some stores with the brand name of "More" that are kind of like Target or Wal-Mart. They have everything you need under one roof - food, household supplies, etc. Ask a driver or a taxi to take you there to get stocked up, and prices are probably about half of what you would spend at Target.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Trash bags, plastic grocery bags, hangers from my closet that I donated, and Crystal Light packets.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Quite a few to choose from and they are close to U.S. prices. But I didn't come to India to eat McDonald's. The food here is amazing!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos are abundant near dawn and dusk but stay away with bug spray at those times. Dengue is a danger, so be vigilant about bug spray during those times.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the Embassy post - we are lucky to have that.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
See above, cheap and available but you need to do your homework and follow best practices that are recommended by the U.S. Embassy.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I have been using the gym and pool at the U.S. Embassy compound, which is very adequate for my needs. It is not super spacious but adequate. However, the fitness center at the U.S. Embassy compound doesn't have a great selection in the way of group fitness options and they cost 400 rupees (US$6.55) per class. We just found a personal trainer who is an American and lives in Anand Niketan neighborhood who offers personalized classes for about US$80/month in the basement of her home.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We generally just take out cash from the bank and use that. Too much hassle with ATM fees plus there's the danger of identity theft. Very few places don't take cash here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Catholic, Mormon for sure. Probably others.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I have been able to get along fine without knowing any.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, there are few sidewalks and ramps and steps that are in good condition. This would be a very unfriendly city to own a wheelchair or be visually impaired due to the many cracks, etc in roads and sidewalks.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis and tuk-tuk (rigshaws) are affordable and safe. Haven't taken train or bus, but we have been advised against using public buses due to safety and cleanliness. I hear trains are an adventure and I look forward to using them.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Recommend SUV or minivan if you are bringing them. We own a Xylo Mahindra which has been fine. Lots of families own Toyota Innovas, and you see all kinds of compact cars around as well.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, a little less than in the U.S.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Yes, there are lots of options here. You have to make a copy of your passport and visa to get service set up, though. Unlock your phone before you come so you can transfer service.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not a great deal that I know of personally.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Quite a few to choose from, as the community is so large. Just ask around when you get here, but there are lots of groups and charities.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business or business casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I (male age 39) have been out and about at various times and have felt safe. But also take precautions and be aware of surroundings. Follow the established guidelines that State.gov has. Pretty common sense stuff.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
At the U.S. Embassy there is a medical unit and they have been great. Watch out for dengue (mosquito born illness) and malaria. "Delhi Belly" is common - I've had it twice but I wasn't careful enough about washing down and soaking fruits before eating them. And you can't drink the water from the tap but filtered water is not hard to find.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
This is a downside of Delhi. The air quality is not good, and is expected to get worse during winter. But it's not to a point where we are seeing health problems.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and humid in summer, monsoon in late summer, then cooler (nice and temperate) in fall and winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American Embassy School is incredible. I can't say enough good about the quality of people and programs. We have middle school and elementary school aged children. The high schoolers also appear to be well adjusted and very satisfied.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, but we don't have personal experience with those.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, through American Embassy School there is a good selection.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big community and lots of great options. I think this is a good spot to come to for a new U.S. diplomatic officer.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Big malls and shopping areas, lots of places to eat, lots of receptions to attend, lots of tourism things to see.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, lots to do for both. Many friendly expats with children, and many ways to meet people.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
This is a different culture, where the caste system is still in effect, and where many people definitely have that servant mentality that I'm not used to. But at the same time, India is very diverse, and people come from a wide variety of religious backgrounds and beliefs. So it's not uncommon or uncomfortable to have religious symbols and concepts as part of daily life and conversation. Overall I have found people to be pretty open and friendly and not prejudiced.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
There's a ton to see in New Delhi. We haven't even started to scratch the surface. But we have been able to go to Lodi Gardens, Dilli Haat, one of the big shopping malls for dinner (very nice and great food), various grocery stores/shopping areas including Khan Market, we found a church where we are making friendships with expats and locals.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The various travel websites or books have it all, and they have all been very fun.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Handmade crafts, clothes (tailored suits, etc).
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The people are friendly and nearly everyone speaks at least some English so it's easy to communicate. People are extremely eager to please, which can be a downside if they don't always know the answer to a question but want to help anyway. Cost of living is low, making it possible for most expats to hire help. It takes some work to find the right help but it is possible by making a good network for yourself. The folks in the U.S. Embassy are well connected and helpful. The culture is fascinating and this is a good time to be in India where there seems to be a consensus to make things better economically and socially.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, very easy to in daily life but you will also spend a good bit traveling around the country if you want to see things.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How difficult it is to get food that I'm used to and make it taste good, but how good and cheap the local cuisine is.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
YES, glad I came.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Fear of germs. Things are generally pretty filthy here. But there's so much excitement and vibrancy to make up for it.
4. But don't forget your:
Adaptability and desire to experience something unforgettable and interesting every day. We saw a man on an elephant cleaning up downed branches after a storm this morning. And a father biking his two sons to school on the same bike in a busy lane of traffic. Never dull, but sometimes frustrating.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Not specific to Delhi, but I just read Song of the Cuckoo Bird: A Novel
