New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 09/18/10
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Fourth expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
USA - 14 hours or more via United or Continental.
3. How long have you lived here?
3 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government - with the US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is getting tougher and tougher - 30 minutes or more of commute time to south Delhi/school. All apartment living for the most part with constant construction noise and dust.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Fresh produce is cheap if local but needs to be washed well. Imported foods of all kinds are expensive, especially meat and cheese, at higher than European rates. Cleaning products are sub-par locally.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Liquids like special hair products, good sports gear, paper products.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonalds and Pizza Hut type restaurants deliver -- about $10/pizza. Decent restaurants are around, but can be pricey- 5 star hotels have higher than usual prices ($40/head without wine). Good foreign wine runs $100/bottle -- really really expensive.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Recently huge mosquito problems (= dengue fever) thanks to the monsoon rains and Common Wealth Games construction sites. In doors - count on cockroaches, ants and spiders.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Fed Ex, via the Embassy. Don't use local Post.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Plenty available - the Bangalore "mafia" has a lock on house keepers and cooks. Lots available, but overall too much trouble - asking for loans, getting in fights with the neighbors, sneaking in relatives to live in the quarters, domestic disputes and alcohol abuse.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Varies widely by neighborhood and depends whether you have access to a gym at work.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Good luck with the ATMs - they are broken half the time, and only use the majors or you'll lose your card. Avoid credit card use -- few vendors accept credit cards and id theft is rampant.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Anglican, Catholic and Mormon services.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Plenty of newspapers (40 cents a day or less) and cable TV $30/month. IHT comes 2 days late - so it's better to read the NYT online.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Almost none for Delhi proper. Hindi helps, but isn't required.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be very difficult. We have a friend in a wheel chair who is almost a shut-in thanks to the poor sidewalks and lack of ramps, etc.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The bus service is Delhi is a death wish. The infamous blue line bus service kills at least one person/day. Trains are usually safe, but read the papers -- when there is an accident there is no rescue service and 100s die. Taxi service varies - like in any big city. Taxis can be relatively cheap, but the drivers will try to con you. Avoid taxis and auto rickshaws (tuk tuks) at night - lots of drunken-driving accidents.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Don't bring a car. Buy local and absorb the Delhi dents and dings. Bigger cars rule the road, so most westerners buy large and everybody drives aggressively and expects complete chaos. If an accident happens - avoid the scene which can quickly turn into a riot. Carjackings are few, but cars are stolen all the time.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
They call it broadband, but service speed is highly irregular. $20-$200 month depending on where you live and what speed you want. Few wifi spots around town and internet cafes are downright dangerous.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Lots of local options - all pretty cheap including 3Band. Don't bring a western phone --or any other electronics-- and expect to get it serviced. On the other hand, you can get your motherboard re-wired down at Nehru Place -- while you wait.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Mediocre vet care. Mainly focused on animal rescue. Lots of street dogs and stray cattle deserve medical care but are left to fend for themselves as "community animals", sadly dying of neglect.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. A few NGOs hire at local pay rates, but there are many, many volunteer activities (unpaid).
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suit/tie for men. Pants/suit for women. Loose clothes due to cultural norms and the heat. Linen and cotton rule.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Markets can be a target for terrorists as well as luxury hotels. Generally pick pockets abound as well as petty theft. Women should dress conservatively to avoid hassles. But the biggest risk is probably just crossing the street due to crazy traffic.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Don't count on ER services -- you gotta figure it out for your self. Medical care can vary widely. World class surgeons and miserable "fake" labs. Private hospitals vary within -- nursing services are abysmal, even thefts of personal items while in the hospital. But some doctors are highly trained and very good - especially for the cost. What is not available is any kind of mental health care including basic counseling.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very unhealthy, in the winter the prized fuel is cow dung so you literally breathe "shit".Asthma and skin disorders are on the rise.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Months of monsoon rain this year with a huge outbreak of dengue fever. Winter is cold and very smoggy/polluted. Oct/Nov and then Feb/March are nice, but the rest of the year is a trial.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Has a reputation as one of the best, but is very "teacher-centric." Also slowly becoming anti-American --there is a rising number of local families who want fewer Americans in the school. The school has developed a serious drug problem being openly ignored by school officials, but has now spilled into the streets so that American school kids are considered spoiled, rich hooligans and druggies.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Only for mild learning disabilities. Special needs kids at each end of the spectrum can't get attention. The school is stretched to the max providing ESL services instead of special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
A large number of options, from the Apple School to French pre-school. Local Indian pre-school is very traditional (rote memory work).
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Delhi International Football (soccer) league is the largest organized sports group in the city, but tends to be over competitive (i.e. cheating) and the quality of volunteer coaches varies widely. Some softball/baseball is available through the US Embassy. The American school has started to expand its sports programs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
1000s.
2. Morale among expats:
Life in Delhi is hard. People get sick a lot. Travel is difficult and expensive. If you are young, footloose,have a tough stomach and are fluent in Hindi -- you'll be able to enjoy Delhilife much easier.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of melas (open air fairs for shopping). Most embassies have "balls" as open social events. Alliance Frances and the Indian Intl Center have good programs. The school has a growing community arts program. Some concerts and international artists visit - but rarely. Mostly home parties.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
There is a large ex pat community, but Delhi life is hard so lots of complaining at social events about pollution, illness, roads/traffic and how to find good help. The school is a social community of its own.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not great, but getting better.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
India is a secular country, but the religious divides are serious and deep. Foreigners don't get "hassled" unless they are involved with religious conversion activities. Gender issues abound with women at the bottom of the totem pole.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Camping in the desert at the Pushkar camel fair, rafting on the Ganges river in Rishikesh, beaches in Goa (before the tar balls), houseboat cruise in Kerala.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Old Delhi touring, nature walks, South side parks, some running/bicycle clubs, a handful of museums and a funky zoo.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Fake antiques, brass items, colonial paintings, expensive formal dress (Indian style), custom textiles and teak furniture.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Cultural experiences can be remarkable. Touring around brings wild, wacky and warm-hearted experiences. But it is not cheap and often not safe.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you are very frugal and don't travel alot inside India.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No - even with the great school (which is now in decline) -- it isn't worth it.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
High heels, woolens, dreams of a cheap exotic lifestyle.
3. But don't forget your:
Insect spray, sense of adventure, ability to bounce back from daily grind ofpoverty, and pack your camera.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
White Tiger, Shantaram, In Spite of the Gods, City of Djinns, White Moghuls, The Argumentative Indian, Nehru's Glimpses of World History, A Life Less Ordinary by Baby Halder
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Slumdog Millionare, Rang de Basanti, Bride and Prejudice, Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, Monsoon Wedding, Salaam Bombay, Earth/Water by Deepa Mehta, Lagaan
