Hyderabad, India Report of what it's like to live there - 03/02/12
Personal Experiences from Hyderabad, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is on the U.S. East Coast, and it is at least 24 hour trip with layovers. Best route was Frankfurt to Hyderabad on Lufthansa, but that flight has been cancelled. It is convenient to fly through Dubai, Doha, and London.
3. How long have you lived here?
One and a half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
When I first arrived, I spent two months in temporary housing, but now all incoming officers should avoid that. Housing is very spacious and nice. Families have houses and couples or singles have apartments. Commute to the Consulate is 15-20 minutes in the morning when there is no traffic and 30-45 minutes in the evenings when the traffic is awful.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local produce is dirt cheap. Anything imported is more expensive than it would be in the U.S.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Lots of beer and wine, toiletries, pet supplies.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Quiznos, Subway, Pizza Hut, Dominos, Papa Johns and McDonald's are all here, but none of them serve beef or pork, so it is not the same as U.S. Indian restaurants are very cheap, but anything American is more expensive.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
I guess the produce here is organic in that it doesn't contain pesticides and preservatives, but it is important to wash all produce well. The lack of infrastructure in India makes it difficult to find very fresh produce.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Dengue is a problem during the monsoon season, so it is important to use bug spray.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We receive mail through the pouch at the consulate.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Drivers, maids, and nannies are readily available, but it can be difficult to find reliable, skilled people. Westerners tend to pay more than Indians for domestic help, expecting them to speak English and be punctual. A maid who can cook Western food will be paid a bit higher. We pay our driver $200/month and our maid $150/month. This is average among the officers.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are more and more gyms opening, but they are pretty expensive. Yoga classes and even private instruction is readily available and cheap. There is an expat Frisbee group here, and a group of officers plays tennis regularly for very cheap. Running and biking are pretty much impossible or very unpleasant.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Most small shops are cash-only, but there are many ATMs all over the city. I haven't had any problem using credit cards or ATMs.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
English newspapers and TV readily available for very low prices compared to the U.S. There are many English books in the bookstores as well.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Many expats get around fine with English. The only officers who speak local language were trained for their jobs.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There is no accommodation made for people with physical disabilities. Walking on the street is hard enough for people who are perfectly able.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local autorickshaws are definitely affordable. Buses are not safe, and taxis are extremely unreliable. They do not roam the streets, so you have to call in advance, and they often do not show up.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We bought an SUV from another officer, and we really like having an SUV here. On the roads of Hyderabad, right of way goes to the largest vehicle. There are many bumps and potholes on the roads which are easier to handle in a higher car. Also, during monsoon season, when the roads flood, lower cars can end up with the engines flooding.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The internet here is very fast, cheap, and reliable (as long as the power doesn't go out!).
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones here are very cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Technically, incoming pets can do home quarantine and then need to be checked by the quarantine doctor. However, we walked right through the airport with two cats, and nobody stopped us.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We adopted a dog from the one animal shelter here, Blue Cross, and we found one great vet who helped us raise our puppy into a healthy dog! Dr. Lakshmi helped us through regular check-ups, vaccines, sprained ankles, worms, and spaying. There is a kennel where you can board dogs here, but I have not used it.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are jobs available with NGOs or English training companies, but people have complained about lack of organization. Spouses of diplomats cannot work on the local economy because there is no bilateral work agreement.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work, dress code is pretty casual. In public, it is also casual, but most women dress in pants and long sleeves to avoid stares and harassment.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really. The traffic is probably the most dangerous thing about Hyderabad.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The main health concerns are related to food poisoning. Regular stomach problems are to be expected.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is poor because of the traffic emissions. Walking on the street or riding in an autorickshaw, you will breathe in fumes and dust.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather in Hyderabad is the best in India. The winters (October-March) are perfect (80 degrees), then the summer is miserable from April to June, but then the "monsoon" is very light and only lasts from July to September.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very small. The U.S. consulate is the only foreign mission here (besides Iran, but we don't hang out with them much). There are some expats working out in High-Tec city and some working for NGO's, but not many.
2. Morale among expats:
Low to medium.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are very few bars and clubs, and the ones that do exist are usually full of Indian men. Very few women go out. There are some nice restaurants for Indian and Western food. Most entertaining is done at home. The malls and movies theaters are the main entertainment here.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Most of the families seem happy, but it can be pretty boring for singles or couples without kids. Indians tend to marry early and have kids immediately. Also, there are not many bars or cafes where you can meet people.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
If there is a gay scene in Hyderabad, it is keeping a very low profile.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
India is very tolerant of religious diversity. Indians can make remarks that may be considered racist in the U.S., but I don't think it is meant to be antagonistic. The biggest problem is gender prejudice. Women have faced harassment here for merely walking on the street.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling around India and around southeast Asia.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Hyderabad has some interesting cultural sites that you can spend about three days on. Other than that, shopping is great here, and the theaters show Bollywood and Hollywood movies.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
I spend most of my money on travel. Other than that, unique jewelry, handicrafts, cottons and textiles, colorful Indian clothing.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Traveling around India is fun, and there are plenty of places to visit. Hyderabad has an interesting culture with its large Muslim population.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, it is pretty inexpensive to live here.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Nice shoes, black suits, punctuality, expectations of a spiritual experience, need for fresh air and nature.
3. But don't forget your:
Bug spray, Sunscreen without whitening cream, booze, pet supplies, yoga clothes and mat, and laid-back personality.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
White Mughals: Love and Betrayal in Eighteenth-Century India
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Hyderabad is what you make of it. It doesn't have as much as the U.S. to offer, but you can find fun ways to spend your time if you look hard enough. For me, it's traveling, shopping, and playing tennis.
