Hyderabad, India Report of what it's like to live there - 02/27/12
Personal Experiences from Hyderabad, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Previously lived in Bujumbura, Burundi.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is the U.S. We can fly from HYD to Mumbai and get a direct flight from there to Newark, NJ. There are flights from HYD to Frankfurt, HYD to Dubai, and HYD to London that connect to the US. Travel to the US takes between 24 to 30 hours depending on where your final destination is.
3. How long have you lived here?
We are here from November 2010 to November 2013.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US State Department.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are apartments and single-family houses within gated communities. Most are within the city or close to it. The commute to the Consulate is between 20-45 minutes depending on traffic patterns and how far away your home is. The international school is a good 45 minutes away from most houses.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most Western groceries and household supplies, or local equivalents, are widely available. Costs range from surprisingly cheap to about twice what you'd pay in the US. Supplies can be limited sometimes and will disappear for a few weeks at a time.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
A few more gluten-free staples that are difficult or impossible to find here and more of the powdered formula that the baby used, because her brand cost more than twice what it does in the US.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Western chains include McDonald's, KFC, Subway, Quizno's, Dominoes, Papa John's, TGI Fridays, and Hard Rock Cafe. There are always rumors spreading about Dunkin Donuts and Starbucks opening soon and some of us are anxiously awaiting them! Prices are reasonable. The red meat in burgers or sandwiches might be goat or lamb unless it specifically says "beef" on the menu.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Products labeled "organic" are of questionable origin. I don't know of anyone who trusts them to actually be organic. There are plenty of vegetarian options. As a gluten-free person, I've found plenty to eat here as well. One store has started stocking a well-known GF brand from Australia. There is a wide variety of Western, Indian, and Asian groceries and restaurant dishes available.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes year-round. Ants and occasional cockroaches in the kitchen.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the pouch through the consulate, but we've also used FedEx and India post with success.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Reasonable. A few hundred dollars a month can provide for a driver and a housekeeper. Nannies are also widely available. Expats tend to pay more than Indians for their domestic help and someone who can speak English and cook Western food will garner a slightly higher wage.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, there are plenty of gyms and yoga studios.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Many major grocery stores and other retailers accept credit cards and ATM cards. There are ATMs located throughout the city; some will accept cards from American banks and some won't. Smaller retailers and street vendors will only accept cash, and preferably exact change.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. Local daily papers are a few cents a day, including delivery. TV news is rarely in English so you must pay for satellite costing a few hundred dollars a year. Satellite TV includes CNN and BBC news along with many American and BBC series and movies.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Many people speak English here and if they don't you can get buy with hand gestures.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This city is not handicapped-accessible. Many buildings do have elevators, but you have to climb stairs to get into the buildings.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis, trains, and auto-rickshaws are all reasonably safe. I don't know any expats who use buses, mostly because they are so crowded and dirty more than because of safety issues.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
India has strict importation rules regarding the age of the car and emissions. They only allow right-hand cars to be brought in. Many people buy a local car upon arrival. For driving in the city, cars range from small hatchbacks to large SUVs. Most of the city is paved well enough for small cars. Toyata, Nissan, Volkswagen, Kia, Skoda, BMW, Mercedez, Honda, and Hundai are all found here, along with Indian brands. Some expats even buy motorcycles and scooters here, to join in with the locals weaving through traffic.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, cost is about $65 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are many mobile phones and plans available. If you're bringing a phone from the US, make sure it's unlocked.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
They can be home-quarantined. A few days after arrival you must bring the animal to the quarantine office at the airport, then after 30 days you must bring them to a vet for a checkup and then bring a health certificate back to the quarantine office.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are vets here; I don't know about kennels. We've only had to get a rabies vaccination for our cat so I can't comment on any other sort of care.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not unless you've been recruited by an American or other Western company to work here.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Conservative. Most women feel comfortable being covered from shoulders to knees. Jeans are fine for casual wear, for both men and women. You'll see a whole range of dress, from burkhas to jeans and t-shirts. Some of us women wear shorts and tank tops for running in certain parks but rarely for running on the streets.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Many Western women feel uncomfortable and there have been reports of harassment. There is often local tension between Muslim and Hindu groups, but targeting each other rather than Westerners. There are pickpockets in large crowds.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is quite good. Dengue fever, malaria, and Japanese encephalitis are concerns, but not as much in the city as in the rural areas.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good most of the year, moderate during the summer with smoke and haze.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summer, from March through May, is hot and dry. The month of May is 110 degrees nearly every day. The rainy season, starting in June, is humid but not as warm as summer. It's fairly comfortable and the rains are not as devastatingly flooding as other parts of India. Winter, December-January, is pleasant, with daytime temps in the 80s and nighttime temps in the 60s.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is an international school that many expats send their children to, elementary through high school ages. My daughter is in preschool so I have not had experience with it.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are a number of good preschools that expats use. There are traditional preschools as well as a Wardorf school that starts at 2 1/2 years old and a Montessori school that starts at 1 year old.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large. There are a number of American and other Western companies that have settled in the Hi-Tech City and Cyberabad neighborhoods, bringing in many expat families.
2. Morale among expats:
It depends. I think those of us who have lived in other developing countries adjust to India more easily than those who haven't lived outside the US before.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Easy. Many expats have large apartments our houses for at-home entertaining. Even if you don't have a housekeeper or a cook, most restaurants will cater a meal for reasonable prices. Outside of the home, there are many bars and restaurants. There are also movie theaters and a bowling alley.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
There's plenty to do here for all types of people. Families with younger children may become tired of all the attention given to white babies here. People are constantly asking for photos of my daughter or trying to pinch her cheeks or shake her hand.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is often tension between small groups of Hindus and Muslims, usually around holidays, but targeted only toward each other. It's usually neighborhood boys throwing rocks at each other. In general Hyderabad is known as a tolerant city.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The food. Hyderabad is known for its biryani.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The zoo is nice. There's the Charminar, palaces and temples. Shopping markets. Some parks for walking. For escaping the summer heat there are large, air-conditioned malls and many of the large hotels allow you to sit at the pool if you order a small amount of food.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Jewelry. Hyderabad is known for pearls. There are also bangles and silver and gold jewelry.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Hyderabad has better weather than most of the rest of India. There are also more Western shops and restaurants than much of India. You can save money on some things but many imported items are expensive.
11. Can you save money?
If you eat local products rather than imports and do only regional travel, yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I would and my daughter would. I'm not so sure about my husband.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, unless you plan on traveling to the Himalayas.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunblock and bug spray.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
We have yet to find much media about Hyderabad, but the first chapter of "Maximum City" by Suketu Mehta (about Bombay) is a good introduction for the difficulties expats have in adjusting to India.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
We like the city well enough to have extended from a 2-year assignment to 3 years, but we'll also be happy to move on to a new adventure when our time is up here.
