Hyderabad, India Report of what it's like to live there - 01/11/11
Personal Experiences from Hyderabad, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, many others
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
USA, 20-30 hours depending on where in the US.The best flight back to the USWC is with Emirates via Dubai. There is no longer a flight though Amsterdam.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
U.S. Consulate housing is large and in acceptable condition, however most employees are in temporary housing for 1-3 months before they are moved into their permanent housing. This has been an ongoing problem and doesn't seem to be anywhere near being resolved.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local groceries are dirt cheap (veggies, grains, milk/yogurt) but imported items are pretty pricey. Ship-in any staples or name-brand things you want.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Very few. It is hard to cook here, so maybe things like olive oil and balsamic vinegar, baking items, etc.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's sans beef. Hard Rock, TGIFriday's and Chili's with beef. KFC, Subway and some other Asian chains. There are about a million good Indian restaurants and you'd have to work to spend over $10, even at the nicest places. Besides pizza, there are few other restaurants that serve continental food. Most of it tastes like Indian food, even though they may call it Italian or Chinese or whatever. Try to embrace Indian food!
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Nothing organic; you have to carefully wash all your produce. Nothing gluten-free (because there are no processed foods) but you can buy all types of other flours if you know how to cook with them. Tons of meat-substitutes. This is heaven for vegetarians. But keep an eye on your cook - most Indian food is made with copious amounts of ghee (clarified butter), both in the home and in restaurants.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes. Bring your own repellent. They only sell a mild local repellent there.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We're lucky and can use the pouch. Friends outside the consulate have had poor luck both sending and receiving packages though the Indian postal system. Fed Ex and Blue Dart are your best bet.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Widely available and worth every rupee. Maids/cooks/nannies are $100-$150 per month, drivers are $200-$250.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are two modern gyms, but the traffic getting to them makes it somewhat prohibitive to go there. They are also very expensive - around $100 per month! There is not a gym at the consulate. Some of the apartments have very very basic gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are widely available, but many places do not take credit cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Few people have found religious services they are happy with. Christian and Mormon services are available but may not be what you are used to. No Jewish services that I know of.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Super cheap satellite with about 15 English channels. Less than $100 per year. There are Indian-biased English-language papers so your best news is on-line.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Little to none. Don't learn Hindi. They only speak Telugu in Hyderabad.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are no accommodations made (outside of the consulate) for people with disabilities, even in the newest and most modern buildings.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains around the country are super cheap, but you need to book early. There is one local train, but I've never seen nor heard of an expat taking it (crowded, filthy, only makes a loop around the city). Taxis are safe and cheap, but for some reason Hyderabad only has them at readily available at the airport. There are a few buses, but they are incredibly crowded, filthy and don't maintain a regular schedule.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any kind of car is fine. Check on current restrictions. You will definitely need a car. Rickshaws only go in certain zones in the city and are a hassle. There is no other public transport, and you can generally only get a taxi at the airport.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Surprisingly, the internet here is not very good. You can get "up to" 500KB for about $50/month. Stress on the words "up to."
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one. They're cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are only two acceptable vets. They are fine for routine care.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. You have to have a work permit. And if you do, don't expect American wages or anything close.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
You will rarely need a suit, only collared shirts. Women should avoid skirts above the knee and spaghetti straps.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Many health concerns from dengue to food-borne illnesses to pollution. There are good hospitals in Mumbai and Delhi, but not in Hyderabad. There have been many medical evacuations from the consulate.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Terrible! Sometimes the visibility is less than a mile because of pollution.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Great in the winter (80s) and sweltering in the summer (100+).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Some like the school, some hate it. There are many changes going on - talk to parents with kids the same age.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Virtually none that conform to American standards.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Some. Talk to parents for details of what sports are available.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Way too small. One consulate and some international companies.
2. Morale among expats:
Varies depending on the person.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most is done at home. However, Indian companies love to have an expat at their events, so you often end up at their promotions.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Probably it's best for families, since you will have a large house and a community of people from school. Plus, most of the expat community is from high-tech companies and are families with kids. There is virtually no social network for single people or couples, since most Indians marry early and have kids early. Since most marriages are arranged, there is little, if any, dating scene, and most of the people you see at clubs are very rich, very young Indians rebelling and drinking heavily. Remember, there are NO other missions in Hyderabad besides the American Consulate. This place is not typical of other consulates or other expat communities.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Unfortunately, being gay is illegal in India. That says it all.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The Pew Research Forum rates India as "very high" in terms of "government restrictions and social hostilities" in religion. There are few churches and no temples, though there are, of course, expats who are not Hindu or Muslim. Gender prejudices are one of the hardest things to deal with. Women are second-class citizens and are treated horribly. However, as an expat, you are more or less exempt from that, since you are viewed as a rich foreigner, even if you are a woman.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling around India and getting to know the locals at work.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Galconda fort, the beautiful new Taj Hotel (a restored palace), interesting temples. There are two Western-style malls and some chain restaurants to get a much-needed beef burger.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Tons and tons of great decorative items from knick-knaks to rugs to linens and more.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The travel around India is terrific! Even paying for maid/driver and traveling, you can save a ton of money.
11. Can you save money?
Yes! Eating out is cheap, domestic help is cheap, most groceries are cheap, there's no real shopping besides inexpensive handicrafts.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not. I would have gone to a city with more to do like Delhi or Mumbai.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Desire to recreate outside, your appetite for beef, pork or anything but river fish, and your nice clothes.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunblock, bug spray, good shoes, and any hobby items that will keep you occupied during the hot season.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
India is fascinating but Hyderabad is not. If you have kids and like to hang out at home, you'll probably like it here. For everyone else, get out and travel or you'll go crazy.
