Conakry, Guinea Report of what it's like to live there - 03/26/08
Personal Experiences from Conakry, Guinea
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, lived/worked in southern and west Africa before Conakry.
2. How long have you lived here?
23 months.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Via Paris or Brussels; there are 4 or 5 flights a week. Theoretically it's possible to travel regionally on regional carriers like Air Senegal and Bellevue, but skip these if you're easily frustrated by unreliable timetables or are easily spooked by aging planes.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am a U.S. embassy employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing tends to be large with huge yards and pools as the default. Even apartments are large with 3 or 4 bedrooms not uncommon. The problem is that buildings are not always built to U.S. standards so you may get an electric shock turning on a light switch, or the floor may not be quite level so it may slant slightly. Do not be surprised if bathroom tiles are teal and/or magenta, or if the kitchen is Pepto pink. These issues are generally minor and should be considered charming.
Embassy housing is all over the city with 24-hour guards at all residences. They have generators, water reserves, etc. Commute to the embassy ranges from 5-20 minutes, depending on traffic. The new Embassy is in a great location and the commute is mercifully against traffic. NGOs and others working downtown can spend 30-90 minutes in traffic or even longer in rainy season when traffic gets particularly horrible.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are mainly imported and expensive. The fluctuating dollar to Guinea franc exchange rate complicates things at the check out. You can find almost everything here including Mexican and other ethnic foods, but the brands may be mysterious and the quality questionable. Use your full consumables allowance and ship any brands to which you are particularly loyal. Fresh fruits, vegetables, nuts and seafood are plentiful and inexpensive. NetGrocer.com and Amazon's grocery service have made things easier, but if you must have diet lactose-free cherry vanilla bon-bons, ship them.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More all purpose and cake flour-- my cook complained about the grainy quality of the local flour and he's right; spare set of tires; more voltage converters and UPS; a Polaroid camera so I could leave photos with locals when I travel; more pool/beach toys and supplies; a small barbeque grill to toss in the car for road trips; more stationary/thank you notes/ invitations; more disposable plates/flatware/platters/tablecloths; more disposable Tupperware because there are so many parties and it's nice not to care if you get your dish back; more Islamic-themed small gifts; more umbrellas.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Very little is fast in Conakry, but a few fast food type restaurants have popped up. Al Forno, a wood stove pizza place downtown, is a hit with the embassy crowd. Their popular 4-cheese pizza costs about 50,000 Guinea Francs, or US$15. The two Riviera restaurants have consistently good food - chicken, steaks and the like. Hotel Cameyenne is supposed to have the best burger in Conakry. The Novotel has a good Sunday brunch that rivals any you'd find in the U.S., but it's pricey for Conakry -- US$40 at last check.
For fabulous French pastries and chocolates Le Damier is the best, and they too have an extensive Sunday brunch. Some of the best ice cream you'll ever find anywhere is available downtown next to MounaNet cyber cafe. The best food will probably be whatever your cook prepares. Conakry has a surprisingly good supply of cooks who can prepare almost anything from traditional African fare to American favorites to frou-frou French cuisine.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DHL functions well here, but it is prohibitably expensive. The Guinean mail system is not reliable, so if there were no pouch I'd have to use DHL.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is readily available and skills range from excellent and experienced, to just starting out and have to be taught. Because they leave for mosque at about noon on Fridays, most domestics offer to work a half day on Saturday. A housekeeper should be paid about US$125 a month. A good cook who can cook American and European standard meals and traditional African dishes should be paid about the same, and can be expected to go to market to do the shopping. Nannies should be paid about US$100-110 a month, and they often eat lunch with the child/children from the employer's food supply, usually whatever the child is having for lunch.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
The larger hotels accept credit cards, but it's best to use cash even at the hotels. Avoid ATMs.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I don't know of an English-language service, but there are many missionaries in Guinea and I'm sure they meet somewhere and worship in English.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Embassy staff have access to AFRTS, but I think the only other option for English TV is a satellite service from South Africa. I have no idea how much it costs but I think you rent the dish and pay a monthly fee for the service. English language publications are hard to find on the local market.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A command of French is really key here. Guineans are kind and will try to communicate in English, but French really does rule here. Learning a few greetings in 1 or more of the 4 major native languages is greatly appreciated and will earn you truckloads of good will.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Nothing here is ADA compliant, other than the U.S. embassy.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
I drive on the right, but some Guineans drive on the right and the left and down the center of the street. But officially, yes, one drives on the right here. Streets are narrow and people, cars and livestock compete for room. If you accidentally run over somebody's chicken or soccer ball, apologize through your barely rolled down window and offer 25,000 Guinea francs as recompense, and you will be permitted to go on your way in peace. Though they are walking in the middle of the street, try not to splash people as you drive through mud puddles during rainy season.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Embassy staff are forbidden to use local taxis. They are assumed to be unsafe from both a mechanical and security standpoint. There is no functioning public transportation system, but the government has a shuttle system for its employees.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Most people have SUVs, and they are genuinely necessary here. Because the streets are narrow and parking is often scarce, those with smaller SUVs are happier, I think. At least 2 wheel drive is needed to maneuver through the thick mud pits that the streets become during rainy season. Toyotas abound here and local mechanics can repair minor/routine things without difficulty. Ship spare parts. Minor accidents are common so an older SUV is probably perfect.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is available but it's not reliable. It is sometimes fairly fast, other times frustratingly slow, or completely down. A chain of cyber cafes, MounaNet, is very popular here.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The cell phone companies are oversubscribed so dropped calls and lack of service are common. Text messages generally go through, so you will learn to make that your primary means of communication.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Phone calls are expensive on the major carriers SoTelGui, Areeba and Orange, but the service is generally reliable. For those with Internet, Skype is a good option.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Vet care is hit or miss. There is one vet that is used by expats and people either love or hate him. Ship pet meds in your HHE, or get them online. There is no quarantine for animals when they enter Guinea, but have your paperwork in order, particular since you'll likely transit Europe to get here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I don't know, but I suspect somebody with good French and a U.S. degree could find work here in either the mining sector or in NGO/development organizations.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Like most west Africans, Guineans dress sharply. Suits and dresses are the norm at the embassy, although a tie and shirt sleeves in really hot weather won't raise eyebrows. Expats can get away with shorts and flip-flops in public and even in restaurants, but should really try a little harder.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate to unhealthy. There is a lot of smog since wood and trash are often burned for cooking, and dust during the dry season can be brutal. Pollen is also quite high at points, so many people with allergies suffer here.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's rare for expats to be specifically targeted for serious crime, although some isolated carjackings were reported in 2007. As in any large city, be careful. Expats will be assumed to be wealthy and there may be attempts to take advantage of them either by quoting ridiculously inflated prices for goods or services, or, more likely, asking for loans and gifts. If you don't like to haggle and it bothers you to be charged $.50 a kilo for mangos while the Guinean next to you is charged $.15 a kilo, don't come here.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Anything more serious than a stubbed toe is a medevac. Embassy staff and their families have access to the nurse practioner.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and dry or hot and rainy.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I know absolutely nothing about the international school (where US kids attend) but if memory serves, it does not have a very good reputation. I've heard good things about the French school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I imagine special-needs kids are a particular challenge here.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I don't know about preschool but most people with small children have nannies.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Smallish, and spread out around the country. The business folks, mostly in the mining sectors, are centered around their various mines in the interior. Missionaries are all over the country in small clusters. NGO folks are also all over the country, but often come to Conakry where they are headquartered. The diplomatic community is small since most missions here have 5 or fewer employees.
2. Morale among expats:
Guinea is not horrible, but its reputation as a tough post is deserved. Morale is generally fair to poor. Recent civil unrest has made even long timers nervous. The president is ill, the government is unstable, and Guineans are restless. Expats complain of boredom. There are no movie theaters and no active arts scene to speak of. Shopping is limited to the Internet, or braving the various open air markets which some thrill seekers find entertaining. People prone to depression tend to suffer -- the gray days during long rainy season really take their toll on some folks. Rainy season also means more people stay home, which reinforces the complaints of boredom. Taken cumulatively the many small annoyances do add up. The millionth mosquito bite followed by the millionth power outage followed by the millionth fender bender just pushes some people over the edge.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
With embassy folks socializing, living and working together, Conakry can be insular and stifling. Dinner parties and movie nights at the Marine House are de rigueur. Singles wishing to date and families wishing to frequently socialize may find Conakry difficult IF they insist on interacting with the expat community exclusively. Those who get to know Guineans invariably enjoy more active and satisfying social lives. A command of French is essential, although many elites speak English, and college students will want to practice their English with you. There is an active network of dynamic, young Guineans -- many educated in the US -- strongly engaged and determined to better their country. The expat community is smallish, and although all the groups are penetrable, cliques tend to stick together e.g., diplomats, missionaries, business folks, NGOs types. As with most things, social life in Conakry is what you make of it.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families and couples have an easier time than singles.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
As male-dominated Muslim countries go, Guinea is surprisingly tolerant of gay/lesbian expats. I suspect gay Guineans have a much harder time. Open displays of affection are not welcome by gay or straight couples.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Expats are shielded from open displays of prejudice if Guineans have them. There are some subtle inter-tribal prejudices that will probably be imperceptible to most expats, and rarely interfere with work or social interactions.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Conakry is grimy and congested so people like to get out of the city often. The islands off the coast of Conakry are easily accessible and lovely for a beach day trip. The interior of Guinea is beautiful and lush, but the roads are poor and for any destination farther than Kamsar, budget at least a weekend. The World Food Program maintains a small plane and a flight to Guinea's lush forest region takes about 90 minutes. There you can climb Mount Nimba, or hike.
In town, anyone who likes to garden will be in paradise since it's possible to grow anything here. There are many chances to learn African dance and traditional indigo textiles. Many of the nightclubs have excellent live bands who play serious Jazz and a fusion of traditional music and pop. Covers of cheesy 1980s ballads are popular for some reason, and it's possible to have a karaoke type experience if you ask to sit in with the band for a song or two. These bands and amazing semi professional dance troupes can be booked as entertainment for parties for very reasonable rates. In addition to Jazz and Top 40/pop, they will gladly sing the cheesy '80s ballad at your next pool party if you ask them.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Guinea is known for its indigo fabrics. Artwork of the Kissi peoples from the forest region (Kissidougou and Foreariah) is particularly lovely, and Mandingo masks and drums are always interesting.
9. Can you save money?
Yes, if you don't order a bunch of stuff on the Internet or go to Paris repeatedly.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely. They say you cry twice when you work in Conakry - once when you arrive, and once when you leave. It may be the toughest tour you'll ever have, but it may also be the best one you'll ever have.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Bitterness that you didn't get assigned to Paris; winter clothes; 110v appliances; wool and flannel suits; sense of entitlement.
3. But don't forget your:
Umbrellas; rain boots; sunscreen; Off! With Deet; children's books/toys; camera; sense of humor, 'can do' spirit, and a 3/3 in French.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Prince Among Slaves http://www.upf.tv/upf06/Films/PrinceAmongSlaves/tabid/77/Default.aspx
7. Do you have any other comments?
Everybody has heard the horror stories about Conakry and its reputation as one of the toughest posts in the Foreign Service. It is what you make it; it is challenging, but the people are warm and the work is interesting. However, if you're determined to be miserable here, Conakry and its hoards of mosquitoes will definitely oblige!
