Conakry, Guinea Report of what it's like to live there - 11/05/19
Personal Experiences from Conakry, Guinea
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I have also lived in Bonn, The Hague, Paris, Moscow, Beijing, and Kabul.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Suburbs of Washington, DC. It's about a six to seven hour flight from Dulles to Brussels or Paris. It's then another eight hours to Conakry (with a stop en route).
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years and four months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
It is large, with a wall and barbed wire surrounding it. There are nearly constant maintenance problems. I have had five significant floods due to the roof needing repair. There are two housing compounds, an apartment building, and detached houses. Commute times can range from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on location and traffic.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are several grocery stores that cater to expats, and their prices can be exorbitant. Some produce is available through local vendors. All produce should be bleached before consuming.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I can order most things online that I can't get here. I did bring a consumables shipment. Diet Coke and American beer are two things that can be difficult or impossible to get here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The Sheraton has a buffet. Some people like a restaurant called l'Avenue. If you live downtown, there are more options available, but overall, the quality of restaurants here is not great.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Roaches, ants, mice and rats are all problems here.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch or DPO, but lately items shipped in the DPO system have been stolen. There is no local postal system.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
The cost of household help varies. There are plenty of people who want jobs but the quality of their work is often low. Americans will pay about three times what Guineans would pay for the same service. A full-time nanny/housekeeper is the USD equivalent of about $250 - $400 a month. A part-time gardener is about $80 USD per month. Part-time pool cleaner is about $80 a month. A part-time cook is about $225 a month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I don't think anything is available outside of the embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No, credit cards are not widely accepted and I would generally not use them. Some of the expat grocery stores take them and using them there is generally safe. No, don't use any ATMs.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are missionaries in Conakry who have English-language Christian services on weekends.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French is really important, but depending on your contacts, you might also need Susu, Malenke or Pulaar. I'm not aware of any local French tutors, other than what is available for embassy employees.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Most definitely. There are no sidewalks, most roads are unpaved, and finding an elevator is a rarity.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. Don't take them.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Something with high clearance that can take a beating and continue running.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
No. Probably a few weeks for installation.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Some people use Orange. My employer provided my phone, which is Cellcom. The data service is lousy, in my opinion.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are no well-qualified vets here, and even if you find one, it's doubtful that s/he would have access to legitimate vaccines or medicine. There's no quarantine. I wouldn't bring a pet here or adopt one here due to the lack of veterinary care.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are a few jobs available in the embassy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
You could probably find an NGO who would welcome a volunteer. There aren't established volunteer programs here.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Guineans often wear local dress. Foreigners usually wear dresses or suits to work, or at least a shirt and long pants. If you attend the Marine Corps ball, you could wear formal attire, but even there, I've seen pretty informal outfits.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Civil unrest is frequent. I have heard there are often protests that evolve into participants burning tires in the road, throwing rocks at drivers in their cars, robbing them, etc. Pickpocketing and purse snatching are common. I've heard home robberies also occur, and I think it is advisable to have a guard.
If you have a vehicle accident and are a foreigner, I feel like you should be prepared for an angry mob to surround your car. I have not seen regulations, stop signs, or lines on the road here. There seems to be no concept of driving safety, signaling, or right of way. Traffic is horrendous, in my opinion, and driving is very stressful.
I have not found any trash collection or waste management system here, so people just drop garbage everywhere and leave it.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There is no acceptable medical care here that I have found. Counterfeit medicines seem to be prevalent, doctors don't seem to be qualified, and clinic/hospital facilities are truly an abomination in my opinion.
Take Malaria prophylaxis, and make sure all of your vaccines are current before arrival. Ebola has been a problem but has been under control in this country since about 2016.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Bad, in my opinion. Burning trash, car exhaust, and dust in the dry season are problems. Also, housing does not seem to be constructed well with properly fitted doors or windows, so the outside polluted air comes into the house. Get air purifiers.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Cook your own food and bring allergy medication.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Nothing in particular. In my opinion, this is a very stressful place to live.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's hot all year. It's dry with no rain from about December until May. The rest of the year is wet and humid.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Embassy employees send their kids to the American International School of Conakry (K-12), the Lycee Albert Camus (nursery school through grade 12), or Tom Pouce (stops at age 10). AISC has consistent challenges and I would not send a child to high school there due to the lack of academic and extracurricular options. It does offer small class sizes and everyone knows each other.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
None.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Albert Camus has a program for kids ages three and up. I've never heard of day care or before and after school care. People get a nanny.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
No.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's small. Morale is not great. It is hard to get people to come here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People usually socialize at one another's homes. Some go out to eat.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a good place for people who can entertain themselves.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No. LGBTs are not accepted here. I met an "undercover" advocacy group and it's my understanding members aren't accepted by their own family members, let alone others.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
No. There is a great deal of ethnic prejudice here among Guineans, but foreigners wouldn't be subjected to that.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Guinea is a Muslim country but people are tolerant. Christianity is also practiced here. Women are not treated as equals here. Female genital mutilation is still a widespread practice here; in some cases it's done to girls who are pre-school age and younger.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Getting away on R&R.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Taking a boat to Roum island and staying for a few hours provides a break. Soumba waterfall in Dubreka is pretty during the rainy season (it dries up during the dry season).
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
No.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
If you don't travel frequently, you can save money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I talked to people about the location before I moved here, so I wasn't surprised.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Not if I had another option.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, unless you will travel abroad.
4. But don't forget your:
Malaria prophylaxis, sunscreen, and air purifiers.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are very few books about Guinea. Memoire Collectif is a book in French.
