Conakry, Guinea Report of what it's like to live there - 05/20/16
Personal Experiences from Conakry, Guinea
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Multiple and varied.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East coast U.S., overnight flight (10 PM to 5 AM) to Paris, then connect on to the U.S.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years, from 2013-2015.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Varied, negligible green space, negligible views, these are not the "Africa houses" you might expect in a place where there is little else to do. Some houses that are non-embassy owned are bigger, but maintenance issues often come with that package. I think having a view of the ocean or a clear look at the sunset versus concrete walls and concertina wire would be of great value to our community since there is so little to distract you from the chaos of the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Anything at the western type grocery stores is expensive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More pool toys.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Minimal selection, local is cheap, "western" is expensive.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes that carry malaria.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic Post Office (DPO).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Inexpensive but of varying abilities, choose wisely.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Decent at the embassy, some local options in hotels but they are expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You don't use them.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not sure, certainly some Protestant services and likely an English speaking mass downtown.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You really need French to get around.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
No accommodations at all.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No and yes.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a HIGH CLEARANCE vehicle, anything else is a stretch at best.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Mediocre quality (can't really stream much but can squeeze out Skype most of the time). $100 or so per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Unlocked so you can get the local carriers.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not many, mostly with NGOs, limited pay.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Find your own, they are out there but French is a huge asset.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Opportunistic crime whether on the street or home burglary.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria is the real big fear. If you are not comfortable with taking anti-malarial medication regularly, do not go. Medical care is limited to Embassy Health Unit with basic primary and emergency care, very limited other local resources. Anything serious is a medical evacuation (if there is time).
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Polluted and dusty in the city.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Dust and pollution can exacerbate existing allergies and asthma issues.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Dry season with dust and rainy season with intensely heavy rain.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American International School of Conakry (AISC) was not up to the job during our tenure there. Very low enrollment. Overstretched and (some) marginally qualified teaching staff. Check on the current situation with someone with kids in the school. Get real-time info only!
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is a French preschool that people like.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Nope.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
English speaking community is small, many find this a hard post though a few seem to thrive.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
House parties. Trips to the islands. Restaurants.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for couples, then singles, then families. I think this place is a real challenge for many (but not all) families. The older the kids, the harder it is. It you have bilingual (French) speaking older kids there may be a bit more of a community to tap into.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I would imagine only if quite discreet.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Guinea is mostly Islam-"lite." Very distinct tribal differences that can sometimes flare.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Epicenter of the world's largest Ebola outbreak.
Watching the evening bat migration along the coast.
Listening to local live music.
Urban walking/biking to try to learn the city a bit.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
A very few bar/restaurants that may or may not be worth the hassle of the traffic chaos to try to get to. Mostly quite far from housing. Islands off the tip of Conakry can be a nice distraction. It is difficult to get out of Conakry given the horrific traffic. Battle your way out to a waterfall to relax and feel the stress return as you sit in endless traffic chaos to get back home. Rarely worth the effort unless you are immune to two hours of sitting in vehicular anarchy.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
A relatively limited selection of "artifacts" and souvenirs, many from outside of Guinea. Better souvenir options in some of the interior cities.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money (the caveat is that you do not travel if you want to save).
10. Can you save money?
Only if you do not travel out of country too often. Conakry will wear you down and you will need to take breaks, those can create a strain on your wallet.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The school situation. The lack of green space. The inability to enjoy the coast anywhere in the city.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but not with school age kids.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Thoughts of wild animals and grasslands. Conakry is a dirty, chaotic, gridlocked, impoverished URBAN experience.
