Cartagena, Colombia Report of what it's like to live there - 08/06/19
Personal Experiences from Cartagena, Colombia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, this is our first.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Atlanta, GA. Delta offers a direct four hour flight. Spirit and Jet Blue offer flights with layovers in Miami & Ft. Lauderdale respectively. Of course, it takes a lot longer if Atlanta isn't your final destination for a trip back to the US.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two and a half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
All nice in a small area. All high rise condos. Nobody gets less than a three bedroom. We are a family of 3 (one kid) and have a three bedroom with a large open living/dining area and a secondary den. Each bedroom has it's own bathroom. Closet space isn't plentiful so you do have to be creative with storage. We do not have A/C in our kitchen so it gets hot when you cook. Some newer buildings/condos have A/C in their kitchens. We also do not have a garbage disposal which is annoying. Just depends on what the apartment owners were willing to spend. We all live in walking distance of each other and either have views of the bay or the beach. It's only about a 15 minute commute to the EBO (Embassy Branch Office).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
We have several local grocery stores and most have delivery service for a very minimal cost. PriceSmart (which is similar to Costco or Sams Club) is two hours away in Barranquilla but they recently started offering delivery via the Rappi App which is awesome because they carry a lot of American brand products. Food also cost significantly less here than in the US. The local stores sometimes have a small "international" section that might have a few American products. We get household supplies from Gigante Hogar or HomeCenter or PriceSmart. Yogurt here is very watery & pourable...I'm used to thick yogurt with fruit chunks...
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Almond Flour, pecans, American snacks. Anything gluten-free or low-carb keto friendly is either non-existent here or super expensive because they import it. Lemons, sweet potatoes, and Greek yogurt are hard to come by here as well.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
They do have McDonald's, Burger King, Subway, KFC and Dominos Pizza. There are many great Colombian restaurants here though. Be that no one has fast service. You can also get almost anything ordered on the Rappi App.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Tiny ants are everywhere, but they are only looking for food morsels. So we don't see them outside our kitchen really. Just keep things super clean and they're otherwise harmless. Mosquitos are a problem for us. They seem to seek us out even when they aren't bothering anyone else.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Via the Embassy mail (DPO addresses etc...) They do have FedEx and DHL here.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Help is super affordable here at about $40-50 mil pesos a day (essentially $12-17 US). Ours cooks, cleans and helps with our child. The Embassy circle typically recycles an employee once a family has left. So most have generally worked with Embassy families before. We interviewed more than one when we arrived and went with the lady we felt most comfortable with and she's been with us the entire time we've been here.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are four gyms in our area. Two bigger gyms very similar to what you'd see in the US. One Crossfit and another gym that has much older equipment but gets the job done. Most gyms are less than USD $250 for the entire year. You can also get private tennis lessons or personal training sessions for less than USD $20 per session.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted and safe to use. Just make sure if at a restaurant they bring you the machine (Datafono). We only use ATMs inside a bank or grocery store.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is one non-denominational church close by that offers English translation at the 9am service. Mostly other churches are Catholic and I do not believe they offer English services.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need to learn Spanish. Most people here do not speak English. You can get a tutor for about $40 mil pesos per session.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are buses and trams but we are not permitted to ride the. Taxis are ok but use an app that tracks the transaction. There are set rates to and from areas that are posted. It's never been more than $15 mil pesos one way.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You need a vehicle you won't mind getting some damage. It floods during rainy season so a high SUV is ideal. Also, aim for something that doesn't require special parts (like exotic cars). Kias, Mazdas, Toyotas are all common here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, we have two providers for internet & cable. Movistar is faster and more reliable. Une is the other provider and we got rid of them. They had outages all the time and poor customer service.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We were able to use T-mobile ONE and keep our US numbers. Most business etc... here have WhatsApp. You can get a local phone here but apparently it has to get registered which is sometimes a ridiculous process.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, there are several vets nearby. Animals do have to be quarantined by I am not sure for how long. Nobody has a yard so if you're not used to having to get on an elevator and take your dog out, this is not for you.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
The EBO here is small so there aren't many jobs for spouses. Some spouses with teaching credentials have taught at one of the local schools. Salaries of course will be drastically lower than in the US. Never heard of anyone else working locally.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are many through the church and other local organizations depending on your interests.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual. If not in the office you can essentially wear anything you'd wear in the US in the summer. It's always hot here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, typical need to be aware of your surroundings and not go where you are supposed to. Never hang your purse on the chair while out, etc. There is petty theft. Also, need to be aware of not getting into a taxi if anyone other than the driver is in there already. Not letting strangers touch you. Never pull out large amounts of money in public, etc.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
I have found that my seasonal allergies are not nearly as bad here. There are a few hospitals for basic issues that are fine. But everything is separate (so you'll see a doctor, go somewhere else to get your blood work done, then need to go back to pick up results and take them to the doctor...). There are better doctors in Bogota.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very humid and hot, but not overwhelming polluted. Hasn't caused us any problems.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
They serve a lot of starchy carbs and very little veggies here at restaurants. So if you have a gluten sensitivity, this may be challenging.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Typical home sickness.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Either hot & humid, hot with a breeze, or hot/humid and rainy during rainy seasons.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are three schools to pick from. One parochial, one international, and one British. There were lots of complaints of bullying and even parents not being inclusive of Americans and the international school. Visit all three and make the decision based on your child's needs.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are two day cares that are inexpensive. They stop at age 3. All three of the schools also have nursery programs that are not all day though. Some of the schools offer extra activities after school for an additional cost but only on certain days (never Fridays).
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, there is soccer, baseball, tennis and swimming all at a reasonable costs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small compared to Bogota. Everyone seems to like it though because of the beach, etc.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Boat trips, day trips to a resort on the island of Tierra Bomba, sunset cruises, beach days, pool parties, and many bars/clubs in Getsemani or the Old City. Also, the movies are super cheap here.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, this is a good city for families and singles. There's plenty to do for either.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I find them to be fairly friendly. Of course if you are buying something you have to negotiate so you don't pay the "gringo" price.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, It is clear that the darker Colombians are thought of as lower class and hold the domestic and other service jobs and make up the majority of the poor population. Ability to speak English is thought to be a sign of being upper class/ educated. The machismo thing occurs here also. But as an American I haven't dealt with discrimination since it's known I'm American.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
More time with family and family members love to come here to visit. Cost of living is low so you can save a lot. We love the laid back culture.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Aviario, Playa Blanca or Azul, Castillo San Felipe
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes, there is a mercado (almost like a flea market) where you can get unique things for a good price.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Ability to be active due to year round warmth, views from everyone's apartments, short commute from office, proximity to the beach.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Bring rugs, no apartments have carpet and the tile is hard on your feet. There is no such thing as fast service here. Personal space is not something well understood here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes and jeans. It's hot all the time.
4. But don't forget your:
Bikes, lots of sunscreen, and sunglasses.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Watching Narcos will probably only scare you unnecessarily ;)