Praia, Cape Verde Report of what it's like to live there - 08/21/23
Personal Experiences from Praia, Cape Verde
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
South Africa, Mali, and Brazil.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
United States. There are current connections through Lisbon, Ponta Delgada, Dakar, and Casablanca. The government is planning to restart direct flights to Providence, RI, by the end of the year. Before the pandemic, there were direct flights from Boston, NYC, and Washington!
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Big, expensive house with a pool. Expat housing varies from big houses to modern apartments, all depending on how much your employer or you are willing to pay. Very short commute times because nearly every part of Praia is only 20 minutes away from every other part of Praia. There is almost no traffic.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are fewer products available, but few things you can never get...it's just a bit of a scavenger hunt to different grocery stores. Therefore, if you find unsalted butter, buy a lot of it and put it in the freezer. You can get tahini, kombucha, and other specialties at the local organic health foods store. The main things I miss that you usually can't get are asparagus, Brussels sprouts, cherries (have seen sad asparagus and cherries rarely, but never Brussels sprouts except frozen). Produce at the municipal market has the best prices and quality; you can buy a whole tuna at the fish market. In general, prices are more expensive than a U.S. Costco or suburban grocery store, but cheaper than NYC or DC.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Not really missing anything, to be honest. It's the least homesick I've been when living overseas and think it's because of all the similarities. Maybe more gnocchi?
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Many options for Cabo Verdean, Portuguese, Italian, and West African (mostly Senegalese) cuisine, with a couple sushi restaurants, a good Chinese noodle place, and one Indian option.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants are common problems. Besides that, really depends on the house. Apartments seem to have fewer problems.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Get mail through work and it takes about two weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household staff are available for most tasks; salary for housekeeper/nannies typically about $250-$400/month depending on skill set and hours. Weekly gardening or pool cleaning about $40/month. Standard rate to wash a car is $3.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Free gym, pool, and tennis court at the rec center for U.S. Embassy employees. Local gym is about $40/month for excellent machines and group classes (spin, HIIT, etc.). Yoga/pilates options starting to pick up again post-pandemic.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Local VINTI4 credit cards are widely and safely used with a local bank account. International credit cards used at many tourist destinations (hotels, restaurants, etc.), but don't always work as well. ATMs common and safe to use.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not aware of English-language religious services; most in Portuguese or Kriolu. There are English-speaking LDS and Baptist missionaries.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It's extremely helpful to speak Portuguese and/or Kriolu. Affordable local tutors are available.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, although the government leaders say all the right things and are trying to slowly invest in better public infrastructure. The main difficulty is the lack of elevators, including in the U.S. Embassy.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, taxis and buses are reliable and cheap.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Small 4x4s are handy, but sedans are also fine given that most of interior roads are paved. There are some charging stations installed by Luxembourg's development agency, but not enough publicly accessible ones around the islands yet for bringing an electric car. For non-dips, there are great tax incentives for bringing an e-car once the charging is more reliable. Electricity costs some of the highest in the world, and electricity production still 80 percent thermal plants (ie, petroleum). Government aims to move to 50 percent renewable energy production by 2030 and 100 percent by 2040...not on pace to make it, but making good progress each year.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It is available and can be installed within the week depending on the number of other clients requesting service. Reasonable costs and fast enough to stream video and work from home, ie. videoconferences, reliably.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We use GoogleFi for international calls/two-factor authentication and CVTelecom for local phones. Local data plans extremely cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Not really. There are local veterinarians, a local animal shelter, and a start-up kennel business. However, there have been problems with the local vets, and neither the shelter nor the kennel are established and dependable enough for complete confidence in the years to come.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many spouses/partners work remotely (CV has a digital nomad visa for those without dip visas) or in the embassy. Spouses with backgrounds in construction could find work; local salaries are reasonable, but the main issue is reliability of timely payment of salaries.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Folks looking to volunteer with children, animals, the environment, and human rights (i.e., LGBTQi, domestic violence, or criminal justice reform) can find opportunities to pitch in.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Usually relatively informal for warm weather, but people dress up for formal occasions. Women's jumpsuit game especially on point. Cabo Verdeans, of all ages, are extremely stylish.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are significant crime concerns; two recent break-ins targeted non-U.S. expats. Street crime is typically a crime of opportunity. There are few handguns in Cabo Verde; knives and homemade weapons are preferred by local robbers.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No endemic malaria. Medical care is not strong; any serious cases are medically evacuated. Cancer and heart conditions typically require treatment elsewhere. Emergency health care is more challenging outside the islands of Santiago, Sao Vicente, and Sal.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is quite good by global standards with low car pollution and no trash-burning. The Harmattan from West Africa reaches Cabo Verde weakened, and Praia is more protected than sites further east.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Dust might be the most significant challenge. The islands are dry most of the year, although the air is humid. You live on a desert island where it rarely rains, but is still pretty humid year-round, ie. no Sahel or southern/eastern African dry air but not lush tropics either.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Cabo Verde's government is extremely worried about alcoholism; there is higher alcohol consumption than in neighboring countries. It's sunny most days, although isolation can be an issue...certainly during COVID.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Typical temperatures range from 70-90 degrees. It rarely rains, even during the rainy season that runs from August-October. Cabo Verde typically gets half of the rainfall of countries in the Sahel.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are French and Portuguese international schools supported by their respective governments. The French school is best for the younger grades; its facilities recently received a security upgrade courtesy of the U.S. Embassy.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool and day care are available, but not in English. Most expats hire nannies.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are local sports classes and activities, ie, a water park, but you have to hunt harder for them and make local friends who will tell you what's going on.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is pretty small because there aren't a ton of diplomatic missions and almost no big international NGOs (and the ones that are present, such as the Red Cross, mostly do not have expat staff). However, there are ton of dual national Cabo Verdeans, so U.S., Portuguese, French, Dutch, and Luxembourgish persons will find many compatriots.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Live music is the huge thing here for Cabo Verdeans, for tourists, and for expats. You can find dozens of shows in Praia each week, major music music venues throughout the islands, and global music festivals such as Kriol Jazz, Baia das Gatas, the Atlantic Music Expo, and literally dozens of weekend music festivals across the islands during the year. Recommend CV Agenda Cultural web site for the calendar of what's going on: https://www.agendacultural.cv/. Most concerts and dinner-and-a-show are promoted on Facebook, so that's your main source of news and information for music. There are also theater, dance, and sports options all year round...follow your interests on Facebook and watch RTC on YouTube to know what's going on.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's great for all. You can nest if you prefer, but can also get out and party at the beaches and night clubs. You will have to work harder than in the U.S. to find out what is going on...and when to show up!!...but the lack of traffic and excellent roads/taxis/parking make it easy to do whatever you want once you find out about it. Make friends and they'll invite you to stuff.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Yes, it's easy to make friends. People might make assumptions about you based on your appearance, but any potentially negative interactions would typically be limited to someone saying something thoughtless or unkind, not anything violent or threatening.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes and no. There are annual Pride Parades and government officials say all the right things. You can be out as an expat and still have friends; it's rare to hear blatant homophobic language in public settings or political targeting of LGBTQ+ people. Still, homophobia and transphobia are real concerns. If you're a white tourist you're more shielded. People of color, of any nationality, and trans or gender non-conforming folks may find Cabo Verdeans less welcoming in circumstances in which you're not immediately recognized and welcomed as a tourist.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is racism and colorism similar to the Americas (Caribbean/Brazil). Women hold meaningful roles in public life and also face domestic violence, sexual harassment, and sexism.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Any drive into the interior of Santiago during the rainy season is a blessing. Visiting the volcano in Fogo was one of the most unique experiences in my life. Beaches in Sal, Boa Vista, and Maio are perfection. I always love a weekend in Tarrafal, and the Resistance Museum and Cidade Velha are both world-class historic sites worth a visit. Everyone should go to Quintal da Musica for live music during a visit here.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
We love the Piscinas de Cuba, the Gongon hike, and batuku with Sunday lunch at the Falucho Beach Club in Pedra Badejo.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes and no. There are good tailors, but most of handcrafts are imported from Senegal. I would prioritize the experience of live music and download (and pay for!) music from your favorite Cabo Verdean artists.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
No traffic, beach time, fresh veggies, amazing seafood, "no stress" morabeza (i.e., hospitality).
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
There are mountains for hiking in addition to the beaches for swimming.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but I'm glad it exceeded my expectations. Everything's been a pleasant surprise.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter coat.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunglasses. Beach umbrella. Beach cooler. Flip flops. Stylish jumpsuit.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Documentary: "Some Kind of Funny Porto Rican?": A Cape Verdean American Story
Non-fiction book: The Dialogic Nation of Cape Verde: Slavery, Language, and Ideology
Fiction: Chiquinho: A Novel of Cabo Verde
Movie: Djon Africa
6. Do you have any other comments?
Whether you come here to live here or not, come visit! Great place for tourism...just pick your favorite island or vacation type to decide whether to prioritize beaches, mountains, music, or food!
