Bujumbura, Burundi Report of what it's like to live there - 11/12/17
Personal Experiences from Bujumbura, Burundi
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, this was my first.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC, USA. Travel to post from Washington varies depending on the route. U.S. staff generally take the Brussels Airlines flight from Dulles, connecting with one stop in Brussels to Bujumbura on Sundays. There are other routings through Amsterdam and Nairobi, as well as thorough Addis Ababa, with daily flights.
3. How long have you lived here?
Approximately 1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing with the U.S. embassy is generally nice. Homes are large (~1500+ sq ft, I would estimate), with at least three bedrooms, and two bathrooms each. Homes are stand-alone (no apartments) and are all surrounded by privacy walls. Homes are staffed 24/7 by local guards for security. Commute time to the U.S. embassy is no more than 15 minutes in the busiest of traffic. Occasionally the roads are closed for VIP movement or protests, which can delay travel an additional 5 to 50 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local produce is of good quality and available near year-round. Some items are more difficult to find than others, depending on the growing season. There is an expat-focused grocery store, Au Bon Prix, which carries fresh fruit and vegetables, along with a selection of imported shelf-stable staples. Mutoyi, a local cooperative, produces high quality dairy products (milk, butter, cheese) at reasonable prices. They also sell beef and chicken. Boucherie Nouvelle is a local butcher in the center of town that butchers its own beef, pork and chicken. Prices are affordable and vary based on availability. Fresh breads are baked daily at Le Café Gourmand and are of a very high quality. Fresh fish is available at many different places at very affordable prices. Much of it comes from Lake Tanganyika or one of the other Great Lakes in the region.
Additionally, there is a diplomatic duty-free shop that imports various household items. Limes, mangos, avocado are plentiful, cheap and of good quality when in season. The local brewery brews and distributes Coca-cola, Sprite, Schweppes, Heineken, Amstel and Primus, which are often the same price (or cheaper) than water. As you would expect, locally produced items are much cheaper than those you would find in the U.S., while imported items (usually from Tanzania, Rwanda or Dubai) are significantly more expensive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Various oils, vinegars, additional cleaning supplies (liquids).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are many great restaurants available in Bujumbura. Local food generally consists of brochettes of some type (meat on a stick). Kanowe service delicious local food and fish. Tandoor and Taj Mahal are the two Indian restaurants and serve food of generally good quality. Petit Basam serves various local foods in a beach-front, kid-friendly setting. La Terasse is a restaurant atop a hotel, serving delicious hamburgers and local specials with a view of the Lake. Hotel Ubuntu and, just down the street, Pasta Comedia, serve delicious pizza. Amahoro Cafe serves Tex-Mex-style food in an open air setting. There are no food delivery services, per sé, though anything can be takeaway if you want it to be. At the U.S. Embassy, the Community Liaison Office organizes food delivery occasionally for lunch.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants are everywhere, occasionally roaches. The U.S. embassy facilities team is very responsive, but there's only so much one can do...
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
U.S. Embassy officers can access the diplomatic pouch for inbound and outbound mail. Delivery from Washington, DC to post takes from 1 to 3 weeks. Outbound delivery takes approximately 1 week. DHL, FedEx and UPS all have local offices in Bujumbura and offer delivery services. I have no experience with the local mail service. It is a part of EMS.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help quality and rates very greatly. Most expats in the U.S. embassy community employ household help for washing clothes, dusting and washing kitchen dishes. Pricing seems to range from 120.000 BF to 250.000 BF for help 3 times per week. Additionally, a number of people employ gardeners to cut the grass, trim plants and occasionally manage a small vegetable garden. Rates seem to be 100.000 BF to 175.000 BF per month for help 3-5 times per week.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a well-known gym in Bujumbura (Fitness Factory) that has well-equipped facilities, as well as classes daily. I'm not sure of pricing. The U.S. embassy has a small, but adequate and well-maintained gym available for staff use.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted at some hotels and the Diplomatic Duty Free store. ATMs are very common, but are often not functioning for international cards. In my experience they are safe to use, however it is not recommended.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Basic Kirundi is nice, however I really suggest a working understanding of French. It really helps when shopping.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, however there are often sidewalks in the major roads.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
All local buses, trams, trains and taxis are off-limited for U.S. embassy staff.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You can get by with near any vehicle. I would suggest a Toyota, as parts are more readily available (there is a licensed Toyota dealer in the city). I recommend a 4x4, however all vehicles can generally get around in the city. Anything you need can be found on the economy in general, though I brought tires, filters and fluids from the U.S. to ensure quality.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High-speed? No. Is home Internet access available? Yes. Price varies, but customers should expect to pay approximately $100 US per month for 1Mbps of service. Two main providers of home Internet in town are SpiderNet and CBINet. Some people use the local mobile phone provider, Lumitel for their home Internet (4G). Streaming (with a home-use VPN provider) is possible - I am watching Netflix in HD, as I write this, with no buffering - however service can be spotty. Service is delivered to the home via WiMAX towers, so weather can greatly affect the quality of the signal.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Go local. Lumitel is the most popular and cheapest. All services are generally pre-paid. Lumitel provides unlimited 4G LTE service for 5.000 BF per month, plus a per minute charge for calls and a per SMS fee. EconetLEO offers 4G LTE service, as well. SMART provides 3G service. I'm not familiar with pricing. There is only one roaming partner in Burundi for U.S. carriers and the pricing is exorbitant. I would not recommend using your home-country plan.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are veterinarians, but quality can vary from what I've heard. I cannot comment personally.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress at the U.S. embassy is generally business casual, except for specific positions. Formal dress is required for some events.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Check with your appropriate security office. There are security concerns, though I'm more concerned about getting hit by a tuk-tuk while driving to work.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Burundi is high-risk for malaria. Local medical care is attentive but not generally high quality. The U.S. embassy has a well-equipped health unit, however anything severe is medically evacuated after diagnosis.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is moderate. The dry season results in dust and dirt being suspended in the air. Locals often burn lawn waste and trash on the side of the road, which can cause extreme localized air quality issues.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Plan ahead.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Bujumbura can be isolating at times, especially if you don't speak French in a working capacity.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Burundi has rainy and dry seasons. It's generally rather warm (80F) year round.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Moderate. Community morale seems generally high - if you're here, you want(ed) to be here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is always a dinner, party or get-together of some sort going on. A large group plays volleyball every sunday on the beach.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I'm not quite sure - I would imagine it would be OK.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Google this one.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
There are great trips to be had in Burundi. The beaches of Blue Bay Resort are lovely. A short trip and tour of the main tea plantation and factory was impressive. Boating on the lake on the weekend. Coffee tasting (Burundi's primary export is coffee).
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Bujumbura is very community driven. Keep your eyes open and be social. You will have a good time.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are plenty of items to buy, but they are of varying quality. There are two woodworkers in town which produce absolutely amazing carvings.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Bujumbura is affordable, generally safe (I feel).
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known to learn basic French before arriving.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I would.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Mosquito spray. Patience.
