Gaborone, Botswana Report of what it's like to live there - 08/07/24
Personal Experiences from Gaborone, Botswana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we have lived abroad in both Europe and Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Florida, but we traveled from DC. Most people fly through Johannesburg, but if you have pets you'll probably need to travel through Addis Ababa. Chaotic and incredibly stressful, do not recommend, and our cat didn't enjoy the experience either! Despite booking a "pet ticket" on Ethiopian Air, the check in desk agents couldn't find any record of our pet in their system and they nearly didn't allow us to board.
You'll also need detailed pet paperwork that will have to be completed within a week or two of departure. Plan accordingly. Though they didn't end up even looking at our pet documents at customs here in Gabs.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year and change.
4. What years did you live here?
2023-present.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is a motley assortment of single-family homes (often older and kind of falling apart but with large yards and a lot of character) and some more modern townhomes, also kind of falling apart due to poor construction and materials.
There is a new housing compound that was just opened this year, where they are placing most incoming personnel. Pros: it's near some of the popular shopping locations and it's an enclosed space for kids to run around and play with their friends, which somewhat makes up for the lack of a large private yard. Cons: longer commute to the embassy and schools, a not so pleasant neighborhood where the locals burn their trash daily, and the construction isn't great quality. Current management has been genuinely doing their best to compensate for these issues wherever possible. I think most people find that the housing is a mixed bag, but that's really most places.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
This is where we earn our hardship differential. The government of Botswana has imposed numerous import restrictions on various produce and grocery items, meaning you can go weeks without finding potatoes, for example, or carrots. Stores will often run out of a particular item and it won't be restocked for a long time.
If you enjoy cooking from scratch and aren't too picky, it's probably not going to be an issue for you. Quick-prep or microwave food items such as deli meat or frozen pizzas are uncommon. It's typical to need to go to multiple grocery stores in order to find everything on your list. I can find most things I need, and supplement with online order for things like spices or other nonperishables. Otherwise I rely on the occasional trip to South Africa to stock up on my favorites.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Laundry detergent (everything here is heavily fragranced), shampoo and conditioner, some spices.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
A few fast food chains such as Nandos and Debonairs Pizza can deliver. Some other restaurants provide takeout. There are fewer than 10 actually good restaurants in the entire city. This is not the post for you if restaurant variety and quality is important to you. Options are very limited, and menus tend to be repetitive because of the supply chain problems.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We've had ants here and there. The occasional large but harmless spider. Flies in the summer. Nothing too unusual or unpleasant.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy pouch services. Bring anything large in your UAB or HHE as you won't be able to get it here.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Nannies and housekeepers are employed by most embassy staff. Some have gardeners as well. We pay our live-in nanny about $350 a month plus bonuses. Our kids love her and we appreciate her so much. Many will want to live-in as commutes can be difficult if your helper doesn't drive. Unfortunately the new housing compound has no maid quarters, so it might be challenging to find someone who is able to live out.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a gym near the health unit, but it's not very close to most of the housing. Some people go to the privately owned gyms in town, but the quality to price ratio isn't worth it for most. Some employ personal trainers or attend yoga or Pilates classes, which are very affordable on an American salary. There are not many places around town that are good for running, but some people find a way.
4. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Depends on the location and time of day. Some people do it.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, you can use Visa cards almost anywhere. ATMs are fairly common but usually have long lines and may run out of cash.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think quite a few. Botswana is an extremely Christian country. There's also one or two mosques, a Sikh temple, and at least one Buddhist temple that I know of. We are not religious, but I think someone who is will find options.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
No need for Setswana as nearly everyone speaks good English, but learning some greetings and phrases will be appreciated. Greeting is VERY important here and you will be thought rude if you speak to someone without first greeting them.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Probably, yes. You'll almost certainly need a car, and not all places in the city are accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Affordable, yes. Safe...depends on your definition of safe. If you need a driver, there are people who can help.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
If you need a specialized vehicle, you may want to bring one from the states. Otherwise it's not hard to find almost any sort of car locally. A 4WD is recommended as roads can be full of potholes even within the city. Toyotas are common.
Traffic here isn't too bad really, especially if you've lived in SE Asia or some other cities in Africa! People complain about it, but it's really an issue of poor road design more than bad drivers. Most drivers here follow the rules (usually) and are fairly respectful. It's not that bad.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High speed enough to stream Netflix, but perhaps not if you're a gamer. It took a while to install but the tech was very helpful and conscientious. Supposedly Starlink is going to be available here in the near future.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Google Fi did not work when we arrived, but it mostly works now. Not well, but it works. Local SIMs run about $20-30 for a data plan, which you must purchase monthly.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Veterinarians are available. We order specialized cat food from the US, but cat food is available here. Litter is poor quality but our cat puts up with it. Cats aren't too hard to bring in. Dogs are a bit harder. No quarantine.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most spouses are able to work at the embassy if they wish to do so. Plenty of jobs, but most are FP-07 at best. Occasional EPAP positions.
Working locally is technically possible, but work permits can take a long time and local salaries aren't usually worth it. A handful of local NGOs and international NGOs with local offices. One spouse that I know of was able to work at the local UN office. Some have been able to telework.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Several. Mokolodi Nature Reserve, the BSPCA, SOS Children's Villages. Take your pick.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual is usually acceptable except in certain positions or in high level meetings. No restrictions in public, people wear whatever they want. There's an annual Marine Ball.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There's been an increase in crimes of opportunity such as car break-ins and muggings. A few home invasions. I've never felt particularly unsafe but I do try to stay alert, lock my doors, etc.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The embassy health unit staff are helpful and proactive. Basic care such as dental exams can be done locally. For serious concerns including surgeries and childbirth, many people go to Pretoria.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is usually quite good. Sometimes fires in the dry season. People in certain areas may burn their trash.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Some people suffer from the pollen. There's limited understanding of food allergies here, but probably not too hard to manage on your own. It depends on the allergy.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Morale at post isn't terribly high. Everyone is overworked and stressed out. We thought this would be a quiet, sleepy post - it definitely isn't! On the plus side, there's some interesting and challenging work happening here.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Chilly in the winter (May-September) and so, so hot in the summer. Dry most of the time. Think Southern California or Arizona.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a few options. My kids are not school-aged, but other families with older kids seem to have had a mostly positive experience.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Limited, unfortunately. Some people find they can be accommodated, others cannot.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are two or three preschools used by most embassy families. People are generally happy with them. Tuition is reasonable. However, they won't necessarily conform to work schedules, so pick up times may be a challenge if you work. We were lucky to find a nanny who is able to drive.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, several. This is a good post for younger children, and possibly for older kids depending on what their hobbies and interests are.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There's not a lot of overlap between the small local expat community and the embassy community, but people are mostly friendly.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Very few public events or activities. The Community Liaison Office (CLO) does a good job of organizing regular events. There are a few restaurants.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Single people who want to date will probably find limited opportunities, especially LGBTQ folks as Botswana culture makes it very hard for people to be out. People who are extroverted and want an active nightlife may be bored, unless they can find a way to socialize in their home. Families tend to be reasonably content.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It's definitely possible. People in Botswana are often friendly, highly educated, and will welcome you into their circle. That said, it's also common for people to be focused on their own families and communities, and it can take time to develop deep friendships.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not the worst, but not the best. I believe same-sex couples have encountered issues with accreditation. Botswana is more progressive than many African countries and there is a small underground community here, but many locals feel unsafe being out.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Tribal or religious prejudices certainly exist, but it's not that common for this to affect foreigners. There is a fair amount of prejudice towards foreign workers, particularly Zimbabweans. Violence is rare, though. While women are active in both the private and public sphere, often in positions of authority and power, there are still significant issues in this country with gender-based violence and absolutely heartbreaking rates of sexual violence, including CSA.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
My kids have really loved the opportunities for exploring nature. Camping at Khama Rhino Sanctuary, or day trips to Mokolodi Nature Reserve.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are some excellent regional travel opportunities. Victoria Falls, the Okavango Delta, the salt pans, Madikwe Game Reserve, Namibia, Cape Town. All the game drives and camping you could wish for. Some can be very expensive, but it's possible to find last-minute deals.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not particularly. There's a rug store in town that sells authentic Persian rugs at reasonable prices. Some lovely local pottery and baskets. A few gifted local artists.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
If you appreciate a quiet, simple life and are good at making your own fun, this is the post for you. Many people find it to be a good family post as well, especially for younger kids. Clean air and water, reasonably safe and quiet, nice people, some interesting things to do.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It can feel very isolated. The work environment can be frustrating and stressful at times, depending on your job.
It's also not as inexpensive as I thought it would be.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Given the alternatives we had at the time, yes. Our other options were not appealing. I'm not unhappy here, but I won't be sad to go when the time comes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sense of urgency, picky eating habits, wish for an active social life, heavy winter clothes (unless you plan to travel somewhere cold!).
4. But don't forget your:
Patience, flexibility, and ability go with the flow.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Call and Response by Gothataone Moeng.
No. 1 Ladies series and TV show (not incredibly accurate, but still gives something of an idea of Botswana)
Recent news articles from the region.
