Hanoi, Vietnam Report of what it's like to live there - 12/13/11
Personal Experiences from Hanoi, Vietnam
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
North California. From there flight has one or more lay-over, usually in Hong-Kong or Singapore. It is a 24 hour trip or so.
3. How long have you lived here?
A year and a half.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Foreign Services, EFM.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The embassy has several apartment compounds and houses for the personnel that are OK. Commute to the Embassy varies from 15 to 30 minutes depending of the location with no traffic, to 30to 45 minutes with traffic. The apartments are OK but the typical Vietnamese design (narrow and deep, on several floors) makes our apartment very dark. We have to turn on the lights during the day even when it is very sunny. Housing is all equipped with reversible A/C, which is a blessing with the hot and humid weather. You’ll find yourself using the heater at night a few weeks during the winter.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I find almost anything we need here, but we tend to use local products as much as possible. It is quite cheap. There are two main types of supermarket SuperCenter and Metro. Metro is like Costco. I find that SuperCenter has more imported products. For veggies and fruits, I rely on my helper who goes to the market: it is usually cheaper. If you’re looking at high-end imported products, there are a few specialty shops, butchers and companies around Tay Ho lake that cater to foreigners’ needs. French Bakeries are everywhere around town.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Any brand that you cannot go without: imported products are expensive and you might not find the one you like. Also, good olive oil, non-sweetened muesli, shoes and clothes in your size (unless you are petite), facial care products (here they all contain whitener), soft laundry soap and dishwasher soap, unscented Clorox, baking goods (like your favorite whole wheat flour or yeast).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC is here. There are two local brands: Highlander’s Café and Nguyen’s. Bia Hoi is the main gig for low cost beer and cheap food. There are thousands of small eateries everywhere, right there on your sidewalk, for a buck or two (beware of food safety). A lot of western and international restaurants from reasonable to extremely expensive (Thai, Japanese, French, Italian, Indian, Korean, German.) There is a newcomers guide available that gives you an idea of to start looking. The CLO provides it. The New Hanoian website is also a great resource.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
I haven’t seen a lot, but there is a small corner in the Fivimart in the Serenade center. Tofu is everywhere. Be aware that Mono Glutamate Sodium is used a lot in Asian cuisine and found in almost dish here in Vietnam.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are the main worry, with endemic Dengue fever. Don't forget to bring mosquito spray with DEET. In the countryside during wet season, beware of fleas, ticks, and leeches.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Help is really cheap. Good help can take a little time to find. English- speaking help is rarer, but the CLO keeps track of the helpers who have worked for embassy personnel in the past. Having a helper is a life-saver if you do not speak Vietnamese, as they will do your shopping, pay your bills, and deal with the maintenance guys for you.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. There are several fitness centers in Hanoi and several golf courses around. Most brand name hotels have a decent gym with membership. The embassy has a small gym, as do most compounds, which also have swimming pools and some tennis courts. The American Club has a volleyball court and a playground.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is a cash economy. There are ATM in front of most hotels and compounds and main hotels accept VISA, Mastercard and Amex. There is some credit card fraud here, so I would be very careful in checking my statement if I were using it. I always pay cash, and carry only the money I am planning to spend with me. Never more.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There is one English-language newspaper: Vietnam News. We have the cable in our apartment. It comes with it.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A few words of Vietnamese will take you a long way to shop and go around. It will surely enhance your relations with the people you’ll meet.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot of difficulties. There is no infrastructure to cater for disabled persons. Sidewalks -– when they exist -– are used to drive on, park on, display one’s shop’s content on, eat or drink, chat, but not to walk on. That would be too trivial! Apartments are often set on two floors with a set of stairs.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are cheap and you can go around town for only a few bucks, without ever needing anything else. They are everywhere, including in front of the supermarkets. To go further out, there are plenty of organized tours, trains that are relatively safe and comfortable (but noisy), if you chose the highest category. You can also fly –- lots of domestic connections.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Most people do not bring a car here because of the crazy traffic, potholes, and driving habits. I found that having a car allowed us to go out of town on the week-ends, to the countryside, which is beautiful and doesn’t have the same crazy traffic (but you still have to be really careful). We have 2 bicycles that we use regularly on the trails, or we go for a walk. It gives us a breather. If you stick to Hanoi, any car will do, the smaller, the better for lack of parking space (there are none) and traffic. If you plan to go around, then a high clearance vehicle really makes the difference, whether you’re going to stick on the main roads, or venture on the smaller ones (dirt roads).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is supposed to be high-speed, but actual quality has ups and downs. Speed tends to go down in the evening. We pay about US$55/month. It’s OK to browse, but VOIP can be a challenge at times. Don’t hesitate to change providers if you’re not happy with the service.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
SIM cards and pre-paid loads are available everywhere on the street. Real cheap. Plenty of shops to buy a phone. The Vietnamese love their cell phones and text all the time, including while driving their scooters.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
No idea, but several people have pets here and they seem satisfied with what they found locally. If you have a dog, you have to be really careful of your surroundings. I’ve heard/read stories of dogs being kidnapped and then ransomed. And if you don’t want to pay, it’s ok: they’ll eat it. By the same token, cats should not be allowed outside.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Unless you are a English teacher or you speak Vietnamese, not really. Local wages are very low. Some positions in the mission are offered to household members.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual at work. Outside, casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Hanoi used to be very safe. However, this is NOT the case anymore. Beside the classic pickpocket activity you'll find in any big cities around the world, there are more and more report of mugging and organized team of thieves. You have to be especially careful at night in the Old Quarter. Don't go out alone and always take a taxi from a reputable company. Leave your passport in your locked suitcase or safe or at home and keep only a copy with you. Don't carry big handbag that shouts "snatch-me".
Never take a moto-taxi (xe om) late at night: they are not the same persons you'll see during the days and have been known to prowl on drunken tourist. There is also a lot of scam from unofficial taxi drivers, or even minibus drivers in some cases. Always use a “marked” and well known brand of taxi. Make a show of learning the license plate number before boarding and make sure they use the meter. During the trip, check that the meter doesn’t get a “fever”. If so, stop immediately the taxi, pay the fare (don’t discuss... this is useless and possibly opens to retaliation) and if possible report the license number to the taxi company or police station.
The main danger is the traffic: the favorite transportation means is the motorbike and everybody in Hanoi has one. If you plan on riding a motorbike, bring your own –- DOT certified –- helmet. Local helmets are more likely to serve as a bucket than a helmet. There are no rules whatsoever (well, they're must be some, but nobody cares) and traffic goes everywhere: road, sidewalks, both directions in one-way streets, red light are green, etc. Bus, taxi, bicycles, motorbike, cars, buses: all use their horn all the time and for everything, which means nothing. This is overwhelming at first you won't be able to stand outside for more than 5 minutes. Then you'll brave the noise and will juggle with everybody else to avoid been push, squash, bump, or roll over. Driving can be a challenge and a lot of people hire a driver. That being said, we have both a motorbike and a car and with a lot of extra caution, you can get by. Expect your vehicle to be bumped within the first month of arrival.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Basic health care is OK locally and you can have braces put on for cheaper than in the US. For anything serious you’ll get Medevaced to Bangkok.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
There is a very unhealthy air pollution in Hanoi. A lot of people are suffering from respiratory problems, coughing, and allergies. And if you didn't have any before arriving, you might leave with some. Water is not drinkable and hard on the skin. Cholera is an issue. Food safety is an issue. You’ll have to be really careful to clean thoroughly everything you buy. There is also noise pollution: the traffic here is horrendous and every single driver uses the horn every second.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter is cold and dry, summer very hot and humid with a small chance of typhoon. Floods happen regularly in some areas, but we haven’t seen any.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
They are several international schools. Most families among the embassy community use UNIS.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, at UNIS.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Quite big, from all over the world.
2. Morale among expats:
It varies greatly. Some like it, some hate it and some are in the middle, with a tendency to be worn-out towards the end of their tours.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It is what you make of it.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This city is good for everybody; families with kids will miss playgrounds, but UNIS offers some kids’ activities. Foreign men will have plenty of opportunity to date, unlike foreign women.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There seems to be an underground gay scene, but I haven’t heard or seen of anything for lesbians.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Despite the local government line, freedom of religion doesn’t exist here and local Christian minorities encounter a lot of pressures. Buddhism/Confucianism is the main religion. Also, people of African-American origins might be stared at more than they are comfortable with. This is a machismo society. If you are a woman, forget expectations of gallantry.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Halong Bay's reputation is not misguided: plan 2 to 3 days of cruising to discover this magic place. Bicycling in the country-side around Hanoi is a real breather.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
People watching: this is a busy town. Have a drink at one of the hundred Bia Hoi restaurants; discover the remains of the French architecture. Travel around the country to discover Ha Long Bay, Sapa, Hoi An, Saigon, and the ethnic minorities. Visit the temples, museums, go to see a water-puppets show. Travel across South-East Asia. Join the Hanoi Hash House Harrier and run/ walk in the countryside every weekend, enjoying a much needed bowl of almost fresh air. Dine out every day for less than US$5/head. Take a Vietnamese cuisine class. Taste snake dishes. Go wild shopping in the different artisans’ villages (silks, cloths, pottery, arts, music instruments). Join the Women’s Club or one of the many NGO’s and get involved. Cultural life is somewhat limited to a few museums, a scarce opera program and some cinemas of questionable qualities (but they show international blockbusters in English version with Vietnamese subtitles). Nightlife is said to be good but very young.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Artwork, hand-made clothes, silk, lacquer, gems, pearls.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is a good point of departure to travel through South-East Asia. And if you avoid traveling extensively, you can save a lot of money. But then you'll miss a lot of things.
11. Can you save money?
Plenty, if you don’t spend it traveling all the time through Vietnam and around, or going out to nice restaurants.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
For a hardship post, it is not that bad. It is still pretty safe to go around if you take basic precautions. Life around here is mostly what you make of it. I’m glad we are here, it is a rich experience, but one time is enough.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectation of privacy. Expectation of gallantry if you are a woman. Dream of aquiet beach under the sun.
3. But don't forget your:
Zen attitude. Shoes in your size. Travel guide to south-east Asia. Motorcycle helmet.
