Malmo, Sweden Report of what it's like to live there - 08/02/13
Personal Experiences from Malmo, Sweden
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my 5th expat experience after Beijing, Sydney, Tokyo, and Hanoi.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
24 hours with one connection.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Work.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Apartments or houses outside of town. Malmà is small, you are never more than 15 or 20 minutes from anything by bike or car.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is expensive - you become very careful about not wasting food. Bleach is very weak and costs a lot. Cleaners can be expensive if you don't watch to see what is on sale.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Baking soda (only sold in tiny packages in the baking section), large containers of shampoo and other toiletries, extra makeup and skin products all which are insanely expensive here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Not sure re fast food - no McDonald's. There is a wide range of restaurants and small eateries. All cost more than seems necessary.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some flies in the summer, haven't seen an ant or anything crawly.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Swedish Posten is efficient, in an almost bizarre way. Make sure packages and letters are addressed to you using your legal and full name in Sweden. Even a spelling mistake will mean your package will be returned to the sender. Bring all your ID - make sure you have a document of ID card with your Swedish "person number" on it.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I have heard there is a government scheme where they will support hiring cleaners up to 50% of what you pay, but I am still working on trying to get all the information on this. Lots of people have cleaning help, but won't talk about it - something about not wanting to seem too 'posh' perhaps.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms are everywhere and you can get a a rebate from the government for joining one.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is almost a cashless society - everyone pays with everything by card.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Internet news. There are many English language TV shows with Swedish subtitles.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Some will get you by fine. I have lived in several countries, and this is the first country where I have had difficulty practicing my knowledge of the local language. People just speak English back to my attempts to speak any Swedish, and so it goes. There seems to be a sort of 'tribal' feeling that they would rather keep the Swedish language for the Swedes.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Buses are accessible and the bike paths and sidewalks are made for wheeled mobility.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains and buses are affordable. Taxis can be insanely expensive if you take one outside of working weekday hours.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I didn't bring a car and I commute by bike or bus. I think cars here are affordable, from what I hear. Driving is easy once you understand the many Swedish rules about everything.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It can take quite a bit of effort to get your provider to install things correctly, but once it's up and running it's great - about $60 per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Life without a smart phone here is no life at all.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, quarantine was abolished a couple of years ago.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is an amazing hospital for pets here in Malmà - wonderful care. But very expensive.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It is much much better if you speak Swedish, then your chances are high. If not, then you will struggle.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Casual due to the biking culture. Guys wear cardigans in place of jackets. You will have a great collection of leggings and long tops when you leave here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Just the usual awareness is necessary. There are car break-ins and some muggings, but no sense of public order breaking down. Malmà is known as the capital of crime in Sweden, but compared to other cities in the world the problem is small.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Be very careful of tick bites - Lyme disease has struck several people I know and it is serious.
Medical care is available but there is a serious crisis at the moment in the system at the local clinic level and most people have great difficulty in accessing the care they need. All incoming cases are assessed by nursing staff who do not have the training and compassion levels to be doing triage - there are know cases of people being sent back home with broken bones and serious illnesses. Many people just give up on the public system, However there is a private sector which no one talks about, and it is possible to just call a local clinic, called vårdcentral, and see a specialist as a private patient, but you still pay maybe US$50, not much at all.
Just keep your global insurance policy and you will have little to worry about.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Not one particulate that I can see - the air is amazing.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Basic Nordic seasons, very short spring and then straight into summer, which can be a mixed bag of cold rain and amazing clear blue sunny days. Winter is dark dark dark and grey. Autumn is gorgeous.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
This can be problematic. There are no international schools which resemble what many expats may be used to. Kids go to class and then leave - there is very little sense of community among the expats here and after-school activities are sad or non-existent. Like the rest of the society it's hard to connect with people and make friends. And this is true among the students as well. There is a division between the kids who are here permanently with one parent who is Swedish, and the expat kids who will leave eventually.
Also the curriculum seems to be strongly influenced by the Swedish school system. It can be a problem if your child has no intention of attending Swedish upper secondary school or university in Sweden. Swedish educations standards are very low and your child will fall behind in skills.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
There is legally required support for all manner of kids learning challenges and developmental delays. However pity the child who is advanced or gifted in any way - these kids are ignored and sidelined on an almost systematic basis.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is the local dagis system of childcare open to working parents. Not sure how to access it but it seems easy.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Available but sometimes tough to break into if you don't speak Swedish and especially if your child doesn't look 'European.' It's like you have to know someone.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Not sure actually - small I think.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There but it is such a sedate scene. Bars empty out at midnight, and the chairs are on the tables by 1pm. People just go home.
3. Morale among expats:
On one hand it is great to live in a place with clean air and dependable infrastructure. But there is no denying that this is an unfriendly place to live. If you can make your own supportive social group then you will be fine, but as the expat community is so small it's tough finding people. I have never spent so much time alone. However I get the impression that this is true for Swedes as well. They don't mix and make new friends very easily. Be prepared to order books on Amazon UK and read lots. Lots of expats talk about how closed and lonely they feel living here.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Perfect for families - Sweden supports parents and children like no other country. Couples will be fine, and it's easy to consider having a family here. Singles will struggle at times. The social circles here are set when Swedes are in high school and they do not mingle with 'outsiders' readily.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Never a problem - no issues whatsoever.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Sweden is having difficulty comprehending that it has a multicultural aspect to its population. There are deep divisions between the new immigrant populations and locals and resentment that the immigrant populations don't understand and integrate into Swedish society. Yet there is no real help for them to do so.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Experiencing a real Nordic winter, living in Europe,
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Take the buses down to the beaches and coast. Go to Copenhagen frequently for some real European capital fun, Fly to other European capitals - if you can afford it. Hiking in the countryside. Go to Ystad - the Wallander town from the TV series. Lund is nice.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Groceries, rent, trips to Copenhagen to buy winter boots.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Clean air, bike-friendly commuting,
11. Can you save money?
Never ever.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I would give it some thought. It's great to live in a place with reliable electricity, clean water, and such amazing opportunities for getting outside. But the closed social community and the small size of the expat community make things difficult. Probably for one contract it's fine.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Flip flops, sun dresses.
3. But don't forget your:
Tall stack of books to read alone in your home in the dark winter, cross country skis. All clothes you have - it is expensive to buy all things here so bring everything.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The Bridge, all the Wallander series, even the Danish series The Killing will give you an idea of the dampness, darkness, and lonely angst.
5. Do you have any other comments?
It's important to be resilient in Sweden. It seems like an easy place to be, and in many ways it is, but all the rules and regulations can't create a convivial social scene, which is sorely lacking here.
