Paramaribo, Suriname Report of what it's like to live there - 05/19/16
Personal Experiences from Paramaribo, Suriname
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Two years at another posting.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Midwest. 24 hours with no fewer than two connections, usually a 6 AM departure from the airport. Possible to fly to New York or Miami in 7 hours and 1 connection via Curacao.
3. How long have you lived here?
2014-2016.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy folks have fairly spacious homes with slipshod construction standards. South side homes are closer to international schools, while north side homes are closer to tourist area and most embassies, including the new U.S. Embassy building.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The customs mark up is 50% so groceries can be quite expensive depending on what you buy. Currently you can buy just about anything an average American household might want
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Dehumidifier, area lamps, movie projector.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Popeyes, Pizza Hut, KFC, McDonalds, and Burger King.
There are some good restaurants and a variety of cuisine- service is all over the place.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Aedes Aegypti mosquitoes, ants and fire ants, cockroaches, and silverfish.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Full-time help is very hard to find. We pay $5 USD per hour for part-time once a week. Service standards are pretty low.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms and pool/tennis clubs.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Mastercard is accepted quite a lot of places and there are ATMs.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Poor accessibility in all buildings downtown.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are fine. Buses are crowded: I don't know any expat that uses them.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
High-clearance, preferably with some scratches and dents already.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
5 down/ 1 up. You can stream... kind of. Different plans but probably average around $100 USD a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Our US T-Mobile plan has worked fine.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Vets are pretty good.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Sort of. Low pay, low professional standards. Be a forceful advocate to get paid if you are going to freelance.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Conservation International, World Wildlife Fund, Suriname Green Heritage Fund. There is a not a huge volunteer spirit in Suriname.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Outside the Embassy it is very casual. Within the Embassy people still walk in with dark navy suits like we're in a temperate zone.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime might be an issue as the current economic situation continues to worsen. Many female officers do not feel safe in public alone.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Don't get sick here. Medical care is hit or miss. Public health is strained pretty thin and is barely managing the current Zika outbreak.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate to unhealthy. No smog, but it's what you can't see that is worrisome. The illegal gold sector uses huge amounts of mercury which is processed in town, mostly downtown but some gold shops are on the same lots as produce markets.
Trash burning is the norm as well.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
You won't be alone. Several people report mystery symptoms, everything from digestion to chest tightness, to fatigue and headaches. Stuff just grows here, especially on the microscopic level.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Rainy season and not so rainy season. In town it is nice when there is a breeze, but that is very seldom. High humidity and temperatures year 'round. It's best to get out of town as often as possible.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Two international English-language schools. If your child is in high school you owe it to them to consider going somewhere else or explore boarding school options.
For junior high you can send them to the International Academy of Suriname (IAS) if you are alright with a school that has a serious religious slant.
Both schools, IAS and Suriname International School, are fine up through probably 5th grade. Both Serious issues with professionalism of staff and standardization of curriculum, in my experience. Both are now accredited but have had accreditation issues in the past.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I would not come to this post with a special needs child.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, but I have no experience with them.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Swimming and other lessons at the clubs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small. Dogged.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Cookouts, game nights, movie nights, dinners, road races. Dancing at hotel bars. Decent jazz.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Paramaribo is great for the kind of person who gets very excited by not having a whole lot of social obligations once the weekend comes. I wouldn't call Paramaribo a good city for anyone, to be frank.
The rest of Suriname is good for people who have a sense of adventure, and appreciate nature. Especially those who are very proactive on outdoor and interior trips (fishing, hiking, biking) and have a higher tolerance for risk when it comes to travel.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I haven't heard of any particular issues, but Suriname is probably within the average norms for tolerance and cultural acceptance of LGBT persons.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gender prejudices are several decades behind. Racial and religious issues don't often come up as the country is a real melting pot- but they are certainly there under the surface.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Turtle nesting, sloth refuge, river dolphin tour. Largest Holi Phagwa festival in the Caribbean.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Trips out of town to nature parks (Peperpot across the river and Berg en Dal in the south), there is also an "eco resort" in the interior. Trips to the ABC islands are fairly easy and well worth it. There is an excellent Thai restaurant.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Hardwood furniture and artisan items. Good local art.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Unique opportunities for nature viewing. You can save money to an extent. Multicultural society exposes you to several different holiday festivals and cuisines (for better/worse sometimes).
10. Can you save money?
If you are working with an embassy or multinational. Local wages are low.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The difficulty of traveling to the anywhere outside the Caribbean. It takes a full day just to get to Bogota or Santiago or Lima. The traffic is low volume but maddening. There are very few traffic controls, and a high volume of accidents.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
High school age children. South America travel guides
4. But don't forget your:
Dri-Fit clothes, coolers, shorts, outdoor gear, dehumidifier, hammocks,
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
None. Google "Paramaribo" by Kenny B.
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Wild Coast, Robert Gillette (take with a grain of salt). The Cost of Sugar, Cynthia McLeod.
