Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 01/19/17
Personal Experiences from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No - various cities throughout the Middle East and North Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
West Coast -- 5 1/2 hours to Frankfurt then 12 hours to San Francisco.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission (with the U.S. embassy).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We have one of the enormous, pretty old, USG-owned houses that's about a 10-minute walk from the embassy and a few blocks from the Wadi Trail. I will stress that it's quite outdated and hasn't been kept up too well aesthetically BUT is of sound construction and uses 110 electricity. Plus we have five bedrooms for all our visitors (ha!) (Although actually we did have a few visitors.) Other houses are smaller and also owned by the USG (funky layout; way funky) and others are leased and farther from the embassy (20-30 min walk) but new (still with some issues, o'course!) and more modern and very nice-looking. Most are very large.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find almost everything you want here -- lots of imported goods (and veggies and fruits), etc. Certain stores definitely cater to expats/Westerners so you'll feel almost right at home. There's a variety of grocery stores ranging from more affordable (Lulu's) to expensive (Tamimi/Danube) and you'll figure out where to go to get the stuff you need. I still laugh a little bit to see Bob's Red Mill gluten-free flours in the 'natural' aisle - mega $$, of course!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We came directly from post so I did not send much (I do order from Amazon or Vitacost.com for things like whole grains and flours because it's a lot more affordable). I'd bring maple syrup, nice laundry detergent, and any other fancy-ish products you might like because stuff is not cheap here. I don't know, you can get almost everything online these days.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Riyadh has a great restaurant scene -- breakfasts are big, and there are many wonderful bakeries for pastries/coffee/breakfast choices that are high quality. Tons of burger places. Tons. Good Italian and amazing Lebanese food. We don't do delivery to the DQ (Diplomatic Quarter) but there are a few places inside the Quarter that will deliver. You'll be able to find most of what you might want.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
30 SAR (about $8-9) is the current going rate and it's very easy to get a housekeeper, nanny, or both, full or part-time.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gym at the embassy. Another ladies' gym on the DQ. Various gyms (men/women) around the city but not familiar with them. Wadi Trail great to walk, run, or bike.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes - accepted and safe for both.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Um, none? Islam rules, obviously. But chances are you'll figure something out under the radar.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You will be able to get by fine with English in 90% of your interactions.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Alas, no public transport. But the embassy motorpool is amazing. And Uber is deemed safe by the embassy.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We have a compact car and it's been fine. Many SUVs. But you'll see everything here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes! Most of the houses associated with the US embassy should have internet installed. Ours has been fine, though sometimes slow, but others have more issues. Hit or miss.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local providers STC or Mobily. I do a pay as you go SIM card.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I don't think many people work on the local economy other than at the schools (though it's definitely possible to work); embassy has many job openings for "EFMs" but they are mostly full-time.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Work = formal. Within the DQ anything goes but off the DQ ladies must wear an abaya and no shorts for guys.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Sooooo I would not say that I feel unsafe here day-to-day. Petty crime is low. Break-ins are nonexistent (speaking of life on the Diplomatic Quarter here). There is a flasher at one of the parks. But there are security concerns that come with thwarted Islamic State attacks, the embassy closes occasionally due to a threat, etc. etc. I think the key is to not think about this too much because you'll be in a state of constant anxiety and really, what can you do?
Some feel unsafe on the road with the crazy Saudi drivers but it's not too awful.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The dust can be pretty bad and contributes to respiratory issues (air purifier/humidifier helps). Medical care is of good quality though the bureaucracy at the hospitals may drive you nuts! I was pregnant here and the care was fine if different than in the States. This probably goes across the board -- then again, you're in a foreign country so it will for sure be different than in America. The Health Unit can help in a pinch but the doctor is often away from post.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Dust is the biggest issue as well as the heat. On clear winter days when the dust is low it is literally a breath of fresh air.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
I would say opposite -- the summer doldrums. It is HOT, especially in July/August. So try to plan your R&R for that period just to have a break.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's huge and varied. I had no idea there would be so many expats here. Morale also widely varies. A lot of people can't stand it and a surprising number of people claim to love it. As with any place, it's what you make of it.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most people hang out at the embassy, go out to eat, or socialize in each others' homes, particularly if they want to drink alcohol.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's great for families with kids. Saudis love kids and they are catered to in a lot of places, including restaurants. Basic parks in DQ and the malls have play areas.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I would say, PROBABLY NOT. At least, you shouldn't be "out" here.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
It's Saudi Arabia. The government has taken away a lot of women's rights (though I wouldn't say all the locals agree with this at all). Definitely racism towards the workers that come in here. You cannot overtly be any other religion than Muslim.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The highlights for us have been the wonderful friends we've made here, the access to nature via the Wadi Trail (manmade, but it's still great), the relative ease of life and living in the DQ. We also drove across the desert to Bahrain and it was super interesting (and slightly depressing) - lots of camels and really got to see the landscape.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
In/near Riyadh there is Diriyah, Masmak Fort, the museum, Kingdom Tower, equestrian center, various places to go in the desert.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You can save money. And just ... life. It is so, so odd here and even odder that it sort of becomes commonplace. You'll acquire a lot of stories.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Honestly, I wish I'd known it is actually way more open than you'd expect. A lot more "normal." I was so anxious about doing something wrong/wearing the abaya/etc. and the longer I've lived here the more I realize that as long as you are not actively trying to subvert the culture you can mostly do as you please. It is not 'scary'. People do not hate Westerners. Everyone from Saudis to other expats and third-country nationals have been really welcoming and friendly.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy winter coat and snow boots.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor.
5. Do you have any other comments?
I know that many have a negative impression of Saudi Arabia and with good reason -- we don't know much about this country because it's been so closed off. At the same time, and ironically, it's teeming with expats and immigrants. People bond together in the shared weirdness of the experience. And to be honest there is a lot that's negative here: the weather is rough 7 months out of the year, women can't drive, the atmosphere can feel generally oppressive, it is rather boring. The Embassy motorpool helps counter a lot of the inability to drive. Wearing the abaya becomes -- gasp -- not that big of a deal. You can have a wonderful community of friends and acquaintances if you make a tiny effort. If you are not working at the embassy (and even if you are) my biggest piece of advice is to get out of your house as much as possible. Go for a walk, even if the same walk you did two days ago. Take your kids to the park even if not many other people are around. Run or walk on the trail. Get a coffee at the Starbucks. Go out for breakfast on the weekend. Repeat. Plan to take a trip every 3-4 months if you can. And go home for part or all of the summer.
I guess what I am trying to say is that if at all possible, come to Saudi with an open mind and no expectations. I know for many this is a first post and is assigned so you don't get a choice to bid on it and I don't want you to dread coming here. I was not excited when we committed to coming, but after a few weeks in country I realized that my life here was not going to be as terrible as I thought it might be. Not easy, no. You do remember constantly what you've given up by living here. Yet at the same time you can find ways to pass the days, make the best of it, and, dare I say it, even enjoy your stint here. After all, for most of us it's a temporary situation.
So maybe -- "Riyadh, not as bad as I thought!"
And good luck to you.
