Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 05/20/16
Personal Experiences from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have lived in or visited many foreign countries.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, D.C. About 8 hours to Frankfurt, and another 5 hours from Frankfurt to Riyadh.
3. How long have you lived here?
Spent two full years at Embassy Riyadh.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Foreign Service Officer at the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Very nice, spacious, comfortable houses in the Diplomatic Quarter. The GSO responded very quickly and efficiently to all maintenance requests, especially if the A/C broke down, which happened only twice in my two-year stay. In each case they came within hours. And since there were two huge central A/C units in the house, one for the downstairs and one for the upstairs, and there was good air circulation through an indoor atrium, I was never seriously inconvenienced.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Riyadh has huge and well stocked supermarkets, although you favorite brand may not be available. However there are very nice French, German and Italian brands, not usually available in the U.S., that are available here. The fresh produce is sometimes (stress on sometime) not very, ah, fresh. Most of it is imported and sometimes it sits on a dock in the heat because somebody forgot or refused to pay a bribe. I found I had to visit two or three supermarkets to fulfill my grocery list. The Tamimi supermarket, close to the DQ, is affiliated with Safeway and stocks many U.S. brands, but do not neglect the French Carrefour chain (great cheeses and other French groceries) or the Jeddah-based Danube supermarkets. Between these three you should be able to find just about everything you want. Buy more than one item of something you really like. I thought the Saudi-produced milk and butter were excellent, however eggs were often brittle and of poor quality.
U.S. diplomats have access to a large, well stocked PX just outside Riyadh. Frozen pork and pork products (bacon !!!) are available but rationed. Re-sale or gifting of pork and pork products to non-U.S., non-diplomatic U.S. personnel is strictly prohibited and may cause you to lose your PX privileges.
A wide selection of wines, beers, and spirits is available for purchase inside the Embassy, but this is not to be mentioned or discussed with non-diplomatic U.S. Embassy personnel. Here too, re-sale or gifting of alcoholic beverages to non-U.S., non-diplomatic personnel is strictly prohibited and may cause you to lose your privileges. It is permitted to serve alcoholic beverages to guests in your home, even to Saudis, but make sure a wide selection of non-alcoholic beverages are also available. Don't let Saudi guest drink too much, because if they are picked up outside the DQ by the traffic police and they smell alcohol on them, they are in deeeeeeep trouble.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing, really.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Just about every fast-food chain is represented here. No pork or pork products (such as bacon) are served anywhere. There is a wide variety of restaurants of every cuisine, most of them are O.K. but not what I would call authentic cuisine. Pork and alcoholic beverages are *never* served. The best of these restaurants are Syrian or Lebanese. Syrian/Lebanese cuisine is very good indeed, but it can get monotonous after a while. There is a bar/restaurant inside the U.S. Embassy, but access thereto is restricted to U.S. diplomats and their guests. They do serve alcoholic beverages and pork products.
Please be aware that a strict segregation by gender is practiced inside all but a handful of Saudi restaurants. Men only in the general dining area, families in private rooms. A very few will accommodate mixed groups of restaurants in a separate, private dining room. A handful of the major international hotels allow mixed groups.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I didn't notice any.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through the APO. Be aware that sometimes APO packages are opened by Saudi authorities, who have removed materials they considered obscene. Their threshold is very low. One saving grace is that most of these guys are too uneducated and ignorant to know what they are looking at. But I have heard of Valentine's day cards being censored/confiscated. On that day it is a bad idea to wear anything red or display red flowers anywhere outside the DQ.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very available and very cheap. Those Filipino girls know about every new arrival and will descend on you like wasps on a pot of honey within a couple of days of your arrival. The quality of the help is spotty and you will need to supervise them.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a very nice gym and pool inside the U.S. Embassy (free).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
They are widely accepted and I never had a problem. However, you can get a better rate by changing your U.S. dollars inside the U.S. Embassy.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
More than you think. Of course it's all deeply underground, but Christian services are there. Under no circumstance should you attend religious services that are not held on the premises of an Embassy. Do not mention or discuss these with Muslims or Saudis. Ask the CLO or Management shortly after you arrive for details. There is a Catholic Mass in English every week, inquire at the Embassy (but not from a Muslim employee or from a Saudi). There is a very active but smallish community of Anglicans/Episcopalians that meet every other week for services, including the Holy Eucharist, at some Embassy or other. I attended those services and they were a lovely group of people. There are always a few Jews within the diplomatic community in Riyadh. I did attend a seder or two in Riyadh in diplomatic homes in the DQ, but again the highest level of discretion is strongly advised. 99.9 percent of Saudis cannot tell Jews apart from Christians, even names that are typically Jewish to us mean nothing to them, so that ignorance too is a saving grace. Obviously this place would be impossible for orthodox Jews to live in, Conservative or Reform Jews would have an easier time but again discretion is the watchword. If you have a diplomatic passport they can't touch you. But I did meet a handful of U.S. Jews outside the diplomatic community and I admired their bravery.
Put any religious articles (crosses, menorahs, Bibles, hymnals, prayer books, etc.) in your diplomatic household effects, and the Saudis will be none the wiser.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, stay away.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are no city buses, subways, or streetcars in Riyadh at the present, although a large part of the city is being torn up to build a modern, luxurious Metro and tram system. Sexes will be segregated on these when they open.
There is one long-distance train line, between Riyadh and Dhahran, on the Gulf Coast. I understand the trains are clean and comfortable, but I never rode them nor did I talk with anyone who had. Saudi Arabia is trying to expand its passenger-rail network.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A rugged SUV with super-charged air-conditioning. Gas is cheap and many Saudis drive recklessly.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is widely available, but not very high-speed and very, very censored. Some of my diploamatic friends got around this using a VPN (?) plug-in or peripheral, which allowed them to access anything, but I never was able to understand their explanations about how to install this so I lived without it.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can bring an unblocked cell phone or buy one here, they are cheap. U.S. Embassy officers will bve issued one.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I don't think they need to be quarantined. I'm not sure about quality veterinary care given most Saudis'(and Muslims') aversion to dogs. An Embassy officer had stones thrown at her and her pet while walking her dog inside the DQ!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I was not aware of any.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Some, at the expat schools.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business attire at the Embassy and at diplomatic functions, nice casual for private parties within the DQ. Outside the DQ, women must wear black abayas and cover their hair. They are not required to hide their faces.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Terrorism is always in the background as a source of preoccupation and concern, although there is an awesome security apparatus in the Embassy and the homes in the Diplomatic Quarter (DQ) have good security. Outside the DQ it is best to keep a low profile, especially if you are female. Even though I am a male, I was harassed a couple of times by the Mutawa in (religious police), once for being outdoors during Muslim prayer ad once, incredibly enough, inside an airport jetway 12 feet from the front door of a Lufthansa aircraft for the hideous crime of talking to a female fellow passenger who happened to be a fellow U.S. Embassy diplomat! We ignored him and quickly ducked into the airplane.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The major health concerns are upper-respiratory diseases and conjunctivitis (because of the dry climate), especially during sandstorm season. There are excellent Saudi hospitals but diplomats have no access to them. There is an excellent and ultra-modern facility called Kingdom Hospital that can handle even difficult cases. They do accept the Embassy health plan (sign up with BlueCross BlueShield before you arrive). there are good Western dentists.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
It is pretty good outside of the sandstorm season.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
sandstorms season can bring on allergy problems (see above).
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
5 very pleasant months in the winter, June to October are as hot as Hades but thankfully both the Embassy and Embassy housing are very well air-conditioned.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is a good American School, also a good British and a good French school. Not having children I can't really say more about them.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge community, some thrived and some didn't. It's harder on the women, of course, but many Western women I met were very happy there. Some even enjoyed wearing abayas since they could wear next to nothing underneath them in hot weather, and they enjoyed the respite from the bottom-pinching, wolf whistles, and catcalls that prevail in other cultures. In the DQ you can wear what you want.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Social life is pretty much limited to diplomatic entertaining within the DQ, of which there is a lot. The social life is hyperactive since all theatres, cinemas, concerts, operas, ballets, plays, night clubs, music halls etc. are banned an un-Islamic.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I would say so, but women have to be prepared to cover up outside of the DQ. There can be issues about unrelated women and men attending social functions outside of the DQ. There were a few restaurants who would reserve a private room for diplomats of both sexes. The luxury Faisaliyah Hotel, owned by relatives of the late King Faisal who hate the religious police, hosted events for foreigners of both sexes while I was there and Western women were allowed to walk around uncovered inside the hotel. Same comment for the Marriott Hotel. I do recall one incident at a major international hotel in Riyadh where a Saudi citizen raised a very loud fuss when he witnessed a Western female, who happened to be a senior official of the U.S. Embassy, entering a private room for a private luncheon with representatives of U.S. companies in Saudi Arabia, to which she had been invited by said executives. It was very ugly and the Ambassador had to call the hotel to protest.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No and yes. Forget about openly living your sexual identity in public, but yes, there is gay life within the diplomatic community and some of their Saudi friends. Discretion is key, even within the DQ.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
TONS !!! Saudis rate the entire human race according to an unofficial pecking order. At the top of the pyramid are Saudis, followed by diplomats from advanced (white) Western countries (Japanese are included in this category, followed by Muslims from other countries, etc). At the bottom of the pyramid are blacks, and members of the servant class, be they Muslim (Pakistanis, Afghans, Eritreans, Somalis) or non-Muslim (Filipinos, Sri Lankans). Saudis are hugely prejudiced against Christians and Christian civilization, about which they know nothing. Saudis do not read, other than the Koran, technical or scientific literature. All the educated Saudis I met majored in four categories: petroleum/chemical engineering, electrical engineering, medicine, architecture, and that's about it. Mention Shakespeare, Goethe, Moliere, Beethoven, Wagner, Verdi to them and all you get is a blank, uncomprehending stare. It's not their fault, it's the fault of the system they live under.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting Madaâ in Saleh and seeing the remains of the Hedjaz Railway built by the Ottoman Turks and destroyed by Lawrence of Arabia.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Desert excursions to view spectacular scenery in total isolation, desert picnics. Great opportunity for the women to doff their abayas.
A hidden gem is Mada in Saleh (Saudi Arabia's Petra) and its pre-islamic tombs and ruins scattered around a spectacular desert area. Nearby is the beautiful oasis of Al Ula with its date palm groves and remnants of the Ottoman-built Hedjaz Railway, destroyed by Lawrence of Arabia and his troops. Many Saudis have never heard of Mada in Saleh and are totally uninterested in anything pre-Islamic, since in their view the world started with Islam.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets, some brass items, some pottery. Most of it is imported , thopugh, from more artistically inclined Muslim countries (Turkey, Iran, central Asia, Oman)
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You can save money because entertainment options are few and the shopping is just O.K. There are some nice Turkish carpets and jewelry to buy at reasonable prices.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, provided you don't travel to Dubai too often.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Bring lots of books because Saudi bookstores don't carry fiction, only religious (Islamic) and technical/how-to literature; same for CDs and DVDs, although you can order those from Amazon + APO (but sometimes the Saudis open APO packages and confiscate things they don't like).
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It's a unique opportunity to visit a closed country with a totally alien culture.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Maybe your dog if you have one. Bring lots of books because Saudi bookstores don't carry fiction, only religious (Islamic) and technical/how-to literature.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor and adventure.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
A good history of Saudi Arabia and an analysis of political, economic, social, and religious issues. Search on Amazon and you will find all that you may require.
7. Do you have any other comments?
As a former U.S. ambassador said, "There are no other countries with which the U.S. shares so many common interests yet shares almost no common values."
