Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 07/31/10
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Have lived in the Persian Gulf and Western Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It's approximately a 10-hour flight from Moscow to Washington, DC.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years (2008-2010).
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The US Embassy has apartments within the compound. In addition, it rents apartments from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs within the city and rents townhouses at two distant compounds (Pokrovsky and Rosinka.) Having lived in a city apartment, I can say that it was the best option out of all three. It was close to two Metro stations and was within walking distance to grocery stores, restaurants, and the Kremlin. The apartment itself was brand new and spacious with a beautiful view of a wooded area just across the street.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries and household supplies are available but expensive. Moscow does offer Auchan (the French hypermarket chain), Metro (a German version of Costco), and Ikea. Prices are usually dramatically higher for all except local goods.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More favorite foods and ethnic foods. English-language books are also more expensive here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All of the fast food brands are represented here. McDonalds is particularly cheap. Other fast food options include hot dog stands (Star Dogs), baked potato stands, blini (crepes) stands, etc. As a major world city, Moscow does boast some fine dining (an example is Nobu) but at high prices. An average meal without alcohol at a moderate restaurant can run as high as $100 USD per person.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Usually via work.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is available and reasonable.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. There are many private gyms throughout the city. In addition, the U.S. Embassy, British Embassy, and German Embassy all have gyms and swimming pools.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Russia, for the most part, is a cash society. Higher-end restaurants and stores do accept credit cards, but everyone accepts cash. ATMs are ubiquitous, but the usual warnings about scams apply.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, for the major ones.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The Moscow Times is a decent expat newspaper. Cable TV is available in a multitude of languages. Cable (for me) was a bit pricey but worth it.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Depends. For basic survival you need some but not much. Obviously, the more Russian you have, the more life becomes easier and enjoyable.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Moscow does not offer any accommodations for the disabled. High street curbs and stairs (with no elevator alternative) are the norm. People with physical disabilities are treated either with pity or as children. In 2008, a Russian domestic airline required disabled passengers to bring a note from their physician giving that person permission to fly.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The public transportation system here is not pretty, but it runs like a dream. While everyone has accolades for the Metro system, the bus, tram, and trolleybus system is just as convenient and accessible, but it requires a bit more Russian language skill to use. Public transport is cheap (less than 1 USD a ride) and usually safe. Most Muscovites use gypsy cabs, and almost any car on the road is a possible taxi. Some Russian-language ability is required, and the usual caveats about gypsy cabs apply. As a foreigner, you will undoubtedly pay more than a local, so just get used to it.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Local roads vary. Most foreign brands are available in Moscow. As a major metro area, almost any car can be driven here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Internet access is readily available but more expensive than in the U.S.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are plentiful and reasonable. There are no contracts here - phone service here is pay-as-you-go. Muscovites pay for their phone service via computerized kiosks, which are everywhere and will accept your phone payment for a commission (rates vary among the machines.) There is no reason why you should not have a cell phone (either work-supplied or private).
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some skills, usually technical or professional, are eagerly hired. Russian language is either a must or a definite bonus.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suit and tie.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. While street crimes and the infamous Russian mob get most of the attention, the real problem here is police corruption and Russian xenophobia. The police are poorly paid and have no motivation except to extort what they can from whom they can. Usually Westerners (read white people) are safe unless they look like obvious tourists and/or are drunk. The xenophobia is particularly problematic here. Anyone of "non-Slavic appearance" (read "not white") runs the risk of being insulted, poorly treated, assaulted or worse. While most of these crimes happen at the outer edge of the city and are usually against guest workers from Central Asia and people from the Caucasus, no one is immune. Diplomats have been assaulted in the city center and in broad daylight. Many in the police harbor silent (or not so silent) sympathy for skinheads and racists, and are thus just as dangerous as the skinheads themselves.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The air quality is a problem. Most Russians with the means seek medical care at private clinics or abroad. Tuberculosis is a definite problem here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Unhealthy. Moscow has more cars than the city can possibly handle (even with a world-class public transportation system). Russian concern for the environment is also low compared to European (or even American) standards.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Well, it's Russia! Winters are cold, but the snow can cover a multitude of sins (for a time) and make almost anything seem pretty. Summer is fine - warm but usually not too hot -- except for this year, apparently.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Ummm..., sure?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Tremendous.
2. Morale among expats:
On the whole, middling to low. Russia, and Moscow in particular, is a tough place to live. The culture, the attitudes of people, and the difficulty to get simple things done can wear on people. The reign of official stamps and forms is strong here, and most people find it easier to say "no," usually in a brusque manner. Travel outside Russia (or at least outside Moscow) is a must to maintaining sanity.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I think I've covered this one in detail. See above.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This city is a paradise for single men. The gender roles here are very traditional, and Russian women have very traditional ideas about marriage (earlier is better), work (she cooks/cleans/raises kids; he works), and social dynamics. Combine this with a "unique" sense of fashion, and most expat men have a good time. Couples can enjoy the city, provided they can find friends and activities. It's not that the city is unfriendly to couples, but single men tend to have the most fun. As for families, I understand that the Anglo-American school is good.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Russian attitudes toward homosexuality are reminiscent of American attitudes from forty years ago. The current mayor of Moscow is an avowed opponent of equal (or any) rights for gays and lesbians. That having been said, there is a gay and lesbian scene here, and as this is the biggest city in Russia, you will probably find more Russians who are tolerant of homosexuality here than anywhere else in the country.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I think I covered race in the crime part. Russian identity is very much tied to Russian Orthodoxy - views of other "traditional" faiths (Islam, Judaism, Buddhism, western Christianity; as defined by the Constitution) are anywhere from neutral (Buddhism) to openly hostile (Islam). Other religious beliefs are usually not met with understanding. As mentioned earlier, gender roles are very traditional here. Stereotypes about women (and men) abound and are treated as fact by both sexes (e.g., women are emotional and not rational).
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The nightlife, the young professional expat community, the ability to travel throughout Russia and the former Soviet Union.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Sightseeing (Red Square/the Kremlin, the Bolshoi theater, the museums, etc.) abounds. Most guide books cover all the major and minor sites well. High culture (opera, ballet, classical music) is well represented here as well. Major pop music acts regularly visit Moscow, as do a number of other musicians from around the world. And as noted before, almost any kind of entertainment possibility can be found here.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
The usual tourist tchochkes: wooden dolls, icons, samovars, Soviet kitsch.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You live in one of the major world capitals and a true "big city" in every sense of the word. Every kind of entertainment, restaurant, etc., is available - for a price.
11. Can you save money?
Not really. I understand it's possible, but you take a serious quality-of-life hit.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Not for a while.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
expectation of prompt and friendly service.
3. But don't forget your:
money, sense of humor, passport and plane ticket out of Russia.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
To really understand why Russia is the way it is (and what to expect), knowing Russian history is vital. Good authors/books include Robert Conquest's The Great Terror, Anthony Beevor's Stalingrad, W. Bruce Lincoln's The Romanovs, Orlando Figes' Natasha's Dance (about the history and impact of Russian culture). Russian literature is also world class and almost all Russians know enough about the country's literary heritage to discuss (and quote) it -- Tolstoy, Dostoyevsky, etc. I would strongly recommend Mikhail Bulgakov as well. While most usually mention his "Master and Margarita", in my opinion the short story "Heart of a Dog" is more enlightening on the Russian condition.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
"Burnt by the Sun" is a masterful film about the Stalinist purges. Anything by film genius Sergei Eisenstein should also be seen.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Moscow exhibits all the best and worst tendencies of a big city and multiplies them by a factor of ten. If you enjoy going out, big-city attractions, and the allure of the bright lights, you can have a wonderful time. Those looking for something quieter or calmer should look elsewhere. Even so, the culture, attitudes, and behavior of Muscovites can be wearing on the most party-hardy of souls. Caveat emptor.
