Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 05/05/10
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, first expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years - from 2006-2008
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Plenty. There is embassy compound housing, which a lot of people love, but it's a fish bowl kind of living. Everyone who lives on compound sees and hears what you do or what you are up to. Many folks who reside on the embassy compound never leave the compound - which is a shame. There are several apartment buildings around the city, which vary from a 10-45 minute commute via the metro and walking. The embassy owns two building areas further out called Hines and Rosinka. Hines is modern apartment-style living, very nice. Rosinka is WAY further out, but it is built like American -style town homes with HUGE two-car garages. Because of the limited transportation to the embassy from Rosinka, it's not a favorable place to live, because you either have to drive to get to work, or rely on the embassy bus with limited service.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I shopped at places like Auchan at the Mega Mall, Ramstore, and a few other small grocery stores locally. The food was relatively cheap and decent. Most dairy and milk products are pasteurized, and you get used to yogurt starting at 5% fat. If you want certain American products, or hard to find produce (like pineapples, mangoes, etc., then I would shop at Stockmann's and Globus Gourmet. I preferred them because most of the clerks speak English and they have great customer service. The embassy has a small commissary that stocks American supplies, like laundry detergent and decent toilet paper, but it's limited to the shipment times. Good things run out fast!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Lots and lots of toilet paper and paper towels. More feminine supplies. Everything else is available locally.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonalds in Moscow is the BEST I've had. No joke. The food actually looks like the picture. It's cheap too. Papa John's just opened up, although it's a pain to get to. A Euromall opened up near the K7 and K14 buildings, and very easy to get to by metro. It's a huge, modern shopping center with plenty of restaurants. The Georgian restaurants are some of the best, too. Plenty to eat and do on the Starry Arbat (near the embassy) and on Noviy Arbat. The embassy community really loves to eat out in Moscow. Many of the menus are printed in English and Russian. A word of advice: don't expect great service, and the food often comes out very slowly.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None that I was aware of.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The embassy has an FPO. You can ship literally anything there. Only problem is it will take anywhere from 2 weeks to 6 months to get your package in the mail (or back to the States). Mail only comes once a week.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I paid about 700 rubles for a once-a-week cleaning. It was plenty for me. There is a HUGE Filipino community in Moscow, and recommendations are plentiful. Some people prefer to hire a Russian housekeeper, as they are a bit cheaper, but many don't speak English.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The gym in the embassy compound is huge. There is a full-sized pool, weight room, elliptical machines, running machines, racketball court, and basketball court. They even have two tanning machines.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I used the ATM in the embassy and sometimes one out in the city and NEVER had any issues. Not all places take credit cards, so I mostly relied on cash to make purchases, except for larger stores like IKEA or Stockmann's.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. I didn't go to church, but you could find almost any denomination there. The Mormon church is huge in Moscow as well.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The embassy offers a cable package. Most of the channels are British imports, which is just fine. There are a few English papers you can get.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Some is nice. At least be able to read Cyrillic to get around. I picked up some language here and there, but I wish I had more language training, even just 3 months' worth.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Lots. Beside the large amounts of ice and snow in the winter, there are loads of 'perihods' or underground walkways. Some have ramps - which are nice - but many are stairs. Expect stairs to get into the metro.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Metro is perfectly fine and, frankly, fast and cheap. I only took a trolley/bus once, and I didn't care for it. If you have the language skills, you can hail a 'gypsy cab', which means anyone will pick you up, barter with you for a price to take you to your destination, and drop you off. It's a way for the locals to make extra money, but some people have been ripped off with this. There ARE legit cabs out there, and there is even a Pink Lady cab service for women only.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring something you don't mind getting dirty, and possibly dented. Most people go without a car or buy one from someone who is leaving. Bring replacement supplies, like windshield wipers, spare tires, and oil filters. The embassy GSO garage will do repairs for you - if you have the parts. Driving is something else, and many drivers do illegal moves on a regular basis. If you are pulled over, don't give the guy a money bribe. Instead, pretend that you don't understand him and he will wave you off. There are hardly any left turns, so be prepared for some very creative driving.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Depends on your building. I had dial-up at first, but a tenant in our building fought to have high-speed internet and won. The only deal was the 'dish' had to be in his apartment window.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cheap - you can buy one here.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
The vets make house calls. There are plenty of pet stores in the area if you can find their location.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not that I know of.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business to business casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. As long as you have good security awareness, like you would in ANY city, you'll be okay. These things called 'turkey drops' are very common in the touristy areas. It is not safe for some people if they are non-white or non-european looking. Many of my friends who were black or hispanic were often badgered or chased. The Russians are very racist.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Good medical staff in the embassy. There is also a European medical center close by for things like x-rays. The Medical Staff is always on call. Dental care is cheaper than in the States. I recommend going to the German dentist rather than the American dentist in the area, though. The German dentist speaks British-English.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate to unhealthy. During the season when I could open my windows without freezing, there was always a grey film on the window sills at the end of the day. People smoke EVERYWHERE! Even in the baggage claim of the Sheremetyevo airport. A lot of cars don't have good pollution control either. Very dirty.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter is long -- very long and very cold. During my time there I saw -20 for two winters in a row. Sometimes it snows just about everyday, but people drive and go out just the same. The snow becomes a way of life after a bit. Spring and Fall -- even though they are about a month long each -- are very pleasant. In the summer, especially nearing August, it gets incredibly hot. Many public places don't have air conditioning, so you sweat a lot for about a month.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American School is located in the Hines complex. Just because you have kids who attend it, doesn't mean you will be located in Hines. I've heard mixed reviews about it from parents. They say it's a very mediocre school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes - thru the school.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
HUGE. Besides the embassy, there are many American expats doing business here.
2. Morale among expats:
Iffy. Depends really. If you are a single female, your morale might be a little bit lower. The embassy caters first to people living on the compound - the CLO could care less if you live off compound. If you have a family, then you are second in the ranking. Those who live further out in the city, and Rosinka, are generally left out of events because of their location.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Many people throw house parties or get-togethers in their area. Because of Rosinka's location, they are well known for their block parties. Single people either go out once or twice a week, or many times a week. A lot of adults go to the embassy bar (service is slow, and food is okay) before heading home for the evening. You can be as social as you want to be.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
For single men - yes. For families - yes. For single women - eh, it was okay. Don't come here if your marriage is shaky. I personally saw several marriages and gay couples broken-up during this tour. It is very easy for men and lesbian women to find one-night stands with the Russian women.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Strangely, the Russian mentality is very anti-gay, but there are known nightclubs. Russian men and women don't mind women just fooling around with other women, but they look down on lesbian relationships.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
YES. Russians in general are very racist, even towards former Republics (like Kazakhs, Armenians, etc.). They generally dislike anyone with non-white skin.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting Sergeviy Posad, Gzhel, and some of the 'ring cities'. The ability to walk and see so much in a small area.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Tons - even more if you can read Cyrillic and speak the language. I had next to no language training, and I did pretty well without it. The museums are plentiful, and many street vendors can speak a lick or two of English...although they may pretend not to understand you.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
The Izmailova market. The true artisans don't really bargain much on their prices. There is a decent store on the Starry Arbat selling local Russian crafts.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The culture is extremely interesting, and the museums are phenomenal - if you can understand the language. Otherwise, hire an English-speaking guide.
11. Can you save money?
No. If you buy things to live your normal day-to-day life, there is no chance. Flights to places like Sharm El-Sheik, Istanbul, Prague, etc., are very cheap sometimes and are short flights. One often spends a lot of their money on weekend travel. Also, be prepared to spend a lot of money on food.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes - it was a good experience.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Shorts.
3. But don't forget your:
Fur coat, or buy one there. I wish I did. Even though your coat may say it's built for -20 weather, it won't be. Trust me, you will freeze your butt off during some months.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
It is hard for a single female with next to no language experience, but I did it because I made great friends there and kept busy with a semi-social life. Beware though, a LOT of people leave their tours here as heavy drinkers, because vodka, beer, and wine are so cheap and abundant and considered part of the culture.
