Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 02/13/10
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
no. Dubai, Riyadh, Vienna, Tashkent, Blagoveschensk, Kabul,
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. Direct flights are possible on flights for about 9 hours. More often I connect through a Western European hub, which ads about 2 hours to the total travel time. Getting to/from the Moscow airports can take 2 hours+ in traffic, so I strongly recommend the express trains.
3. How long have you lived here?
Since 2007
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
corporate
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
You can either live in an apartment in the center, or one of several developments and neighborhoods on the outskirts. Anything in the middle will cost far less, but be removed from the most interesting areas, and nicest housings. New construction exists on the outskirts, but in the center your best bet is to look for a "evroremont"-type place, i.e. European standard renovation. It won't be, not really, but it will be nice enough. You can also do what I did, which is buy a place and then rennovate it to exactly how I wanted, but that is unrealistic for most.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are three levels; nice and expensive, on the lower side of acceptable, which is OK, and cheap, which is cheap, but probably better to avoid. It takes a little time to find places like the market mentioned above, but it is really worth it (and fun to shop at).Processed foods are the staple, even in grocery stores; its possible to shop well, but it takes some effort/knowledge.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Spices! Store likes to sell spice mixes, e.g. "poultry spices," but its hard getting a full array of plain spices.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast food chains are there, and street kiosks. Expensive dining is also freely available, but true fine dining, with high quality food and service, is available only at a few places. I love fresh fruit and vegetables from a market near me. I can even get live lobster there, although, like anything nice in Moscow, its very expensive.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None. I don't think I ever saw an insect within city limits, even in parks
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Sent to my home address. Packages I send using a signature-only service such as USPS express mail and UPS where they call me to make sure that I am home first. This is because, as in many buildings, the delivery guy can't access my floor and hallway unless I am there.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Many options, and costs are low. It helps a lot if you can speak Russian though.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are four within walking distance of my apartment.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Not every place takes credit cards, although all major stores do. ATMs are everywhere.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is a German Catholic church, and probably others.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
I buy the Economist, and read the free Moscow Times. My TV has English-language news. I could pay fro more channels, but I find that I watch more on my computer than my TV anyway, and there I can get whatever I want.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The ability to read Cyrillic letters is a must. Basic Russian makes things much, much easier, and more enjoyable.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are no handicap entrances, and most buildings have stairs, even a just a few, to raise them above the slow and slush level.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The metro is wonderful, and always comes within 1.5 minutes after the last train departed. Taxis are everywhere - just put out your hand and negotiate a price with the random car that stopped. You can call a real taxi as well for only a little less, although that entails waiting.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Some brands dominate (Ford, Audi, Mercedes), while others are seen less often (Jaguar, Cadillac), so check your specific make to be sure that parts and service will be available. The real thing to watch out for though in import duties; they can be very high (more than 10,000 USD).Your car registration is also only as long as your visa's, which is a pain.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. its cheaper than the US , and I can pay my bill at the payment kiosk at the grocery store closest to my house.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are easy - automated payment kiosks are easy to find in grocery stores and by metro stations.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Lots of English language teachers and nanny positions. professional and higher-level positions are also available, but require some insider knowledge to find/obtain.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Fashionable for women, high-quality for men. My taste differs form the Russian at times, but I find that as long as I focus on high-quality classics with the occasional fun piece, I fit in and look good.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I feel more comfortable in Moscow than in the US, since the roads are almost always full of people (living in the center helps).That said, my door (and all doors in Russia), is steel, with multiple locks.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There are some Western clinics that appear OK, but for anything really serious I would go to Western Europe or the US.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Its OK, although in the winter grit spread on roads and sidewalks to provide traction can stick to one's shoes and car, coating them. Car exhaust can be bad in traffic.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summers are perfect, if not too long. Cold in winter, with snow. Its on;y really cold for a few weeks (less than two last winter) though, the rest of the time it is a little over freezing, which is manageable, once you accept the cold and dress appropriately (good shoes, wool coat, scarf, gloves, hat)
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don't have children, and my dog has no opinion. Don't rule out the better Russian schools though; a friend raised his daughter bilingual and she is currently at an excellent Russian school (she had to pass a test to get there).
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I know horseback riding and ballet is, but I do not have children, so there may be more.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large, although segregated.
2. Morale among expats:
Varies widely. if you learn Russia and get beyond the expat-only circle, you will probably enjoy it. if not, you may end up frustrated and a little bored.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
My only complaint is that it can get a little wild for my taste. There is no end of options, things to do, people to meet, etc.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, although better I think for families, people already in relationships, and single men. The last often date Russian women, but the attractive local male options for foreign women are limited.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
A small gay and lesbian scene exists, but there is some prejudice against openly gay people.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Being black, brown, tan, Asian, South American, Caucasian, Central Asian or really anything other than white will cause you problems at some point. A black friend visiting Russia reported that he felt hostility everywhere he went. Central Asian, Caucasian and African migrants have it the worst though; wealth insulates to a certain degree.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Discovering the live music scene, learning Russian, museums,
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There is so much to do! The top-level club scene is limited, but good, and lesser known quirky clubs abound. Museums are good, and the theater/ballet (the latter is particularly good for those new to Moscow who do not speak Russian). I like the more random things, like ice skating in Gorky Park and learning to play polo. If you can stand the outrages prices, there is a helicopter school.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Russian handicrafts like painted wood items, embroidery and artworks (make sure the gallery helps you with export permits, or contact one of the many services to arrange this before you leave).
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
While bad for Russia as a whole, uneven development means that Moscow is the true center of the country; almost everything interesting, fun, exiting, etc. is happening here.
11. Can you save money?
You can, on daily items, but the high cost of imported items tends to cancel them out. It is easier for women, since men pay for all social outing costs, and not just on dates.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
yes!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
sandals. Any time spent walking outside will destroy them. The same goes for any white-colored outerwear and shoes.
3. But don't forget your:
good winter coat (there are a lot here, but the high, high prices for high quality goods and lower quality of the other options means it is easier to get one at home).
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Internet - many regions have homepages, even my street has a website dedicated to landmarks and history. Most of it is in Russian, but Google language tools do an adequate job.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Living in Moscow is a challenge, and a puzzle to be solved. Once you work it all out and figure out how to live, where to shop, where to go, what to do, etc, it can be a grand adventure and a pleasant place to live.
