Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 10/24/09
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is our second overseas posting.
2. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is our second overseas posting.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year into a three-year tour.
4. How long have you lived here?
One year into a three-year tour.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
State Department employee family.
6. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Daily flights to the East Coast or Atlanta, 8-10 hours.
7. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
State Department employee family.
8. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Daily flights to the East Coast or Atlanta, 8-10 hours.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Houses outside of town with garages and fireplaces. Houses in a gated community next to the American School with a half-hour to 45-minute (?) commute, or the New Embassy Compound (NEC). I can only express an opinion about the NEC housing. Standard 1980's not very creatively done (why not orient the housing to the south so the places could have some light?) but livable. Like living in the 1950's with kids, they can live in the middle of the huge city, but be outside running around, riding bikes, skateboards, playing in the embassy gym, buying candy at the commissary. It's idyllic in that respect. Five minute walk to two metro stops, fruit and vegetable kiosks, and a 10 minute walk to a grocery store and many other conveniences.
2. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Houses outside of town with garages and fireplaces. Houses in a gated community next to the American School with a half-hour to 45-minute (?) commute, or the New Embassy Compound (NEC). I can only express an opinion about the NEC housing. Standard 1980's not very creatively done (why not orient the housing to the south so the places could have some light?) but livable. Like living in the 1950's with kids, they can live in the middle of the huge city, but be outside running around, riding bikes, skateboards, playing in the embassy gym, buying candy at the commissary. It's idyllic in that respect. Five minute walk to two metro stops, fruit and vegetable kiosks, and a 10 minute walk to a grocery store and many other conveniences.
3. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get everything here. Except maybe certain high-end brands of shampoo. Everything else, from L'occitan to Yves Rocher is available. Raspberries in winter at a fancy grocery store will cost $15, or you can get wonderful seasonal produce at the rynoks on every corner. Diet Pepsi, every kind of dairy product ever conceived...some items may not be quality you are use to...but you can probably find a nicer one somewhere, if you are willing to shop around and pay more...just like at home.
4. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get everything here. Except maybe certain high-end brands of shampoo. Everything else, from L'occitan to Yves Rocher is available. Raspberries in winter at a fancy grocery store will cost $15, or you can get wonderful seasonal produce at the rynoks on every corner. Diet Pepsi, every kind of dairy product ever conceived...some items may not be quality you are use to...but you can probably find a nicer one somewhere, if you are willing to shop around and pay more...just like at home.
5. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Liquids you are fond of-- Method Cleaning products, favorite shampoos.
6. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Liquids you are fond of-- Method Cleaning products, favorite shampoos.
7. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Tons. From a church that serves the best pyidoshshki ever for less than adollar to a really nice $15 lunch, to an outrageously priced dinner, it's all here. High end: think maybe not NYC, but maybe Las Vegas.
8. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Tons. From a church that serves the best pyidoshshki ever for less than adollar to a really nice $15 lunch, to an outrageously priced dinner, it's all here. High end: think maybe not NYC, but maybe Las Vegas.
9. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I hardly ever see a bug. Sort of exciting to see a spider in the bathtub once a year.
10. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I hardly ever see a bug. Sort of exciting to see a spider in the bathtub once a year.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO takes 10 days--why is Amazon so fast? to two months. Two weeks with the pouch is normal
2. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO takes 10 days--why is Amazon so fast? to two months. Two weeks with the pouch is normal
3. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We pay someone 1000 (around $33) rubles a day to clean our house. And she's amazing. There is a Filipino contingent at the NEC that will help you out. Russian help also very nice and helpful at the same price.
4. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We pay someone 1000 (around $33) rubles a day to clean our house. And she's amazing. There is a Filipino contingent at the NEC that will help you out. Russian help also very nice and helpful at the same price.
5. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Really nice gym, I mean really nice, at the embassy. Also at the gated community housing I think. Other gyms throughout town if you want to pay more.
6. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Really nice gym, I mean really nice, at the embassy. Also at the gated community housing I think. Other gyms throughout town if you want to pay more.
7. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Debit cards work at stores about 90% of the time. There is a Citibank at the embassy. Cash is easier, if you remember to get it.
8. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Debit cards work at stores about 90% of the time. There is a Citibank at the embassy. Cash is easier, if you remember to get it.
9. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Plenty of Orthodox. Yes, everything.
10. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Plenty of Orthodox. Yes, everything.
11. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
IHT available. Some local papers with Russian news and local events in English at www.mnweekly.ru and expat.ru.
12. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
IHT available. Some local papers with Russian news and local events in English at www.mnweekly.ru and expat.ru.
13. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
If you stay on the NEC, none! I'm not recommending this however! The language is HARD. And you need to know some. It's not like some countries where everybody speaks English. People who run vegetable stands do not speak English. But you can always point. They will turn the calculator around so you can see the amount of rubles you need to pay. People turn around and stare because you are speaking English with a friend. What year is this? Russia seems so isolated sometimes!
14. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
If you stay on the NEC, none! I'm not recommending this however! The language is HARD. And you need to know some. It's not like some countries where everybody speaks English. People who run vegetable stands do not speak English. But you can always point. They will turn the calculator around so you can see the amount of rubles you need to pay. People turn around and stare because you are speaking English with a friend. What year is this? Russia seems so isolated sometimes!
15. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I don't see any support for the disabled.
16. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I don't see any support for the disabled.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes and yes. A little intimidating with the language, but again, that's me not them.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes and yes. A little intimidating with the language, but again, that's me not them.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We brought a car and haven't used it in a year. The metro is phenomenal. A little intimidating to use trying to read everything in Russian, but that's me not them. It's cheap-- 50 cents!-- to go anywhere in the city. The cars come every 90 seconds, and race from one end of the city to the other. Amazing.
4. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We brought a car and haven't used it in a year. The metro is phenomenal. A little intimidating to use trying to read everything in Russian, but that's me not them. It's cheap-- 50 cents!-- to go anywhere in the city. The cars come every 90 seconds, and race from one end of the city to the other. Amazing.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
At the NEC around $60 a month. It's great--when it works. Otherwise pirate off a neighbor!
2. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
At the NEC around $60 a month. It's great--when it works. Otherwise pirate off a neighbor!
3. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
157 rubles ($6.50 today) for 30 minutes.
4. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
157 rubles ($6.50 today) for 30 minutes.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
3. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We don't have pets, but plenty of Americans do, so I'm pretty sure it's not a problem, the CLO has a list of vets.
4. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We don't have pets, but plenty of Americans do, so I'm pretty sure it's not a problem, the CLO has a list of vets.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Maybe, if you speak native-level Russian. Otherwise the regular jobs at the embassy.
2. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Maybe, if you speak native-level Russian. Otherwise the regular jobs at the embassy.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work: dark suits and ties for men, for women, Washington DC and better. On the street, this is your chance to wear leather lace-up pants to the grocery store and you need three-inch heels to walk to the park. At first it will seem crazy, then after a year, you'll notice you are wearing red patent leather shoes and your bag matches perfectly. Even if you are a guy!
4. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work: dark suits and ties for men, for women, Washington DC and better. On the street, this is your chance to wear leather lace-up pants to the grocery store and you need three-inch heels to walk to the park. At first it will seem crazy, then after a year, you'll notice you are wearing red patent leather shoes and your bag matches perfectly. Even if you are a guy!
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Except for walking on the 12-lane wide ring road and feeling like it was taking years off my life, I've never noticed unclean air. Seems surprising, but true. Skies can be gray with bad weather, or bright blue.
2. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Except for walking on the 12-lane wide ring road and feeling like it was taking years off my life, I've never noticed unclean air. Seems surprising, but true. Skies can be gray with bad weather, or bright blue.
3. What immunizations are required each year?
None. Thinking of getting the flu shot though.
4. What immunizations are required each year?
None. Thinking of getting the flu shot though.
5. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Someone was mugged late at night by the Metro. For a big city, I feel safer here than in the US. As long as people are out and about, which they always are, it seems fine.
6. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Someone was mugged late at night by the Metro. For a big city, I feel safer here than in the US. As long as people are out and about, which they always are, it seems fine.
7. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
It's cold. Maybe if you have eczema it will act up. Maybe not. Wash your hands. We haven't been sick in the year we've been here. The well-staffed med unit at the embassy is super.
8. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
It's cold. Maybe if you have eczema it will act up. Maybe not. Wash your hands. We haven't been sick in the year we've been here. The well-staffed med unit at the embassy is super.
9. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Four seasons. Last winter was longish, but really not unbearable. The Moscovites know how to live with snow--the sidewalks are swept, the streets are plowed. Snow isn't a big deal. It doesn't close the city down the way it might Washington DC. And now with the mayor manipulating the weather, maybe it won't snow at all!
10. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Four seasons. Last winter was longish, but really not unbearable. The Moscovites know how to live with snow--the sidewalks are swept, the streets are plowed. Snow isn't a big deal. It doesn't close the city down the way it might Washington DC. And now with the mayor manipulating the weather, maybe it won't snow at all!
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American Anglo School looks like a country club--probably the nicest facility I have ever seen. They have their own Bolshoi Theater...swimming pool, ice skating rink, huge fields for sports. Middle school is a little fast socially, but the academics are really first rate. There are really good lessons available: swimming, martial arts, and ballet?Also really good piano lessons available. The teachers come to your house, $35/hour and they went to the Moscow Conservatory, the same school Tchaikovsky went to.
2. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American Anglo School looks like a country club--probably the nicest facility I have ever seen. They have their own Bolshoi Theater...swimming pool, ice skating rink, huge fields for sports. Middle school is a little fast socially, but the academics are really first rate. There are really good lessons available: swimming, martial arts, and ballet?Also really good piano lessons available. The teachers come to your house, $35/hour and they went to the Moscow Conservatory, the same school Tchaikovsky went to.
3. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
4. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
5. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool onsite at the embassy, and a ton of really good options locally that no one uses--there is a local Russian Waldorf school!
6. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool onsite at the embassy, and a ton of really good options locally that no one uses--there is a local Russian Waldorf school!
7. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
After school.
8. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
After school.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Thousands.
2. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Thousands.
3. Morale among expats:
Mixed. If you hang with the half-empty crowd, you'll be complaining about Paris, right? That said, it's a big post with a lot to get done a lot of people trying to get noticed.
4. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
How good are you at making friends? There is certainly no lack of things to do in Moscow, finding people to do them with is up to you.
5. Morale among expats:
Mixed. If you hang with the half-empty crowd, you'll be complaining about Paris, right? That said, it's a big post with a lot to get done a lot of people trying to get noticed.
6. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
How good are you at making friends? There is certainly no lack of things to do in Moscow, finding people to do them with is up to you.
7. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families: tons to do--circus, ballet, zoo within walking distance of the NEC, easy life-style. Singles: tons to do, beautiful women, the men? Age fast. Couples, yes, TONS to do, restaurants, the best arts in the world. Like living in a very white NYC, and service with a scowl.
8. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families: tons to do--circus, ballet, zoo within walking distance of the NEC, easy life-style. Singles: tons to do, beautiful women, the men? Age fast. Couples, yes, TONS to do, restaurants, the best arts in the world. Like living in a very white NYC, and service with a scowl.
9. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's a little difficult to connect with this community outside the embassy, it's pretty old-fashioned here. But I'm sure once you get clued in, you'll be fine.
10. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's a little difficult to connect with this community outside the embassy, it's pretty old-fashioned here. But I'm sure once you get clued in, you'll be fine.
11. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
My friend of Filipino ancestry doesn't stand close to the edge of the metro platform. Get it? I can't imagine being black here--I see like, one black person a day. If that doesn't bother you, go for it. I've never lived in such a sexist society, but the men don't let the doors slam in your face, they are sort of old-fashioned.
12. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
My friend of Filipino ancestry doesn't stand close to the edge of the metro platform. Get it? I can't imagine being black here--I see like, one black person a day. If that doesn't bother you, go for it. I've never lived in such a sexist society, but the men don't let the doors slam in your face, they are sort of old-fashioned.
13. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
It never stops: the Bolshoi Ballet, Tchikovski Conservatory, Symphony, opera, museums, parks, world class circus, the Kremlin, summer palaces galore, name Russian author/composer/ballerina, visit his or her gravestone/house/dacha.
14. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
It never stops: the Bolshoi Ballet, Tchikovski Conservatory, Symphony, opera, museums, parks, world class circus, the Kremlin, summer palaces galore, name Russian author/composer/ballerina, visit his or her gravestone/house/dacha.
15. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Fur hats, which you will wear, beautiful linens, nice wooden items, paintings, knitted items...
16. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Fur hats, which you will wear, beautiful linens, nice wooden items, paintings, knitted items...
17. Can you save money?
You'd think you'd be able to, the hardship is what at least 15% and the cola is at least that, but we haven't. Maybe it's us.
18. Can you save money?
You'd think you'd be able to, the hardship is what at least 15% and the cola is at least that, but we haven't. Maybe it's us.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Oh yeah. This is a culture with the most highly developed arts in the world, but you have to get past being around a people who were oppressed for generations to enjoy them.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Oh yeah. This is a culture with the most highly developed arts in the world, but you have to get past being around a people who were oppressed for generations to enjoy them.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Smiles for strangers--people on the street will think you are crazy, also don't sing with your ipod while walking down Tverskya.
4. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Smiles for strangers--people on the street will think you are crazy, also don't sing with your ipod while walking down Tverskya.
5. But don't forget your:
Wool, ability to find Land's End on the internet, manners.
6. But don't forget your:
Wool, ability to find Land's End on the internet, manners.
7. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
All the usual Russian stuff. Read a Chekov play then visit his house! Listen to Stravinsky and go visit his grave at Novidivichy cemetery. moscowinyourpocket.com
8. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
All the usual Russian stuff. Read a Chekov play then visit his house! Listen to Stravinsky and go visit his grave at Novidivichy cemetery. moscowinyourpocket.com
9. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
10. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
All the usual Russian stuff. Read a Chekov play then visit his house! Listen to Stravinsky and go visit his grave at Novidivichy cemetery. moscowinyourpocket.com
11. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
All the usual Russian stuff. Read a Chekov play then visit his house! Listen to Stravinsky and go visit his grave at Novidivichy cemetery. moscowinyourpocket.com
12. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
13. Do you have any other comments?
Once you get past the hard exterior, the Russians are usually pretty chocolate-y inside.
14. Do you have any other comments?
Once you get past the hard exterior, the Russians are usually pretty chocolate-y inside.
