Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 08/22/09
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second expat experience.
2. How long have you lived here?
Lived there for two years from 2007-2009.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Working with the U.S. Embassy in Moscow.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Best routes are non-stop flights from the States. American Airlines has one from Chicago. United has one from Washington D.C. that's about 10 1/2 hours. Delta has one from JFK and one from Atlanta that are about 9 hours and 11 hours respectively. I've also heard there's a great flight on Singapore Air direct from Houston.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The embassy has four different types of housing.1. NEC - on compound housing for singles, couples and families of varying sizes. Pros:no commute, located in the city center and a great starting point to explore the city. Cons: some people talked about the embassy fishbowl (some don't agree).The housing is drab, industrial and can be depressing, though some people did a good job of making it homey. Some people complained of never being able to truly get away from work since work is always right there. 2. City apartments for singles and couples with no children. I really never heard too many cons about these apartments. Some are fixed up better than others, but overall I didn't hear too many complaints.3. Pokrovskiy Hills - townhomes for families. It is located near the school. Pros: great for families that have school-aged children. A good expat community, with a mini market (though it's expensive). Cons:about a 40 minute commute to work, and some people don't feel part of the embassy community when they're out there.4. Rosinka - townhomes for singles, couples and families located in the outskirts of Moscow. Pros:Probably the best housing and neighborhood with a good gym, restaurant and mini market. You get fireplaces and garages which are very helpful in the winter. Air quality is much better. Cons:The biggest and ONLY con is the commute which can be anywhere from 1hr and 10 minutes to 3 hours on a bad day. One night the traffic was so bad that people got home at 10 pm, though that is not the norm, just more of a horror story. The commute is enough to make people not want to live out there anymore and it really wears on you after a few months. If we were to get posted in Moscow again we would not choose to live in Rosinka. Having a two hour commute both ways affects your quality of life in Moscow.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get almost all fruits and vegetables you need. Good meat is harder to find, though we got better at it. If possible, avoid going to big mega markets on Saturday because the crowds and lines are huge.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Contact solution, nice shampoo and conditioner and some baking goods.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
I know of MacDonald's, KFC, and Subway in terms of American chains. There is a good food-stand chain called Stardog, which has Russian-style hotdogs, and it's on every corner, practically. Restaurants are plentiful with lots of selection, though they are very expensive. We hardly ever ate out because we ended up dropping $80 without even ordering a beer, dessert or appetizer. There are some great restaurants, but not many. Most aren't bad, but few are exceptional. We usually felt like we could make something better at home for much less.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Hardly any. We had ants but got rid of them easily with ant spray and traps.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and Pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I'm really unsure of this because we didn't use domestic help. Many people do and it's readily available.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I only know of the gym in Rosinka and the gym in the embassy. The Rosinka gym is quite nice, though it doesn't open early enough for people who work in the embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We mostly used cash, but sometimes used our ATM card. Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere. I felt safer using cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are English-language services available in almost all religions.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There's Moscow Times in English. We got AFN, and there's also Russian basic cable, although we got rid of that after a few months. We used a slingbox and watched Direct TV from the States.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
At the very, very least learn the Cyrillic alphabet. Russian is a difficult language, but it's worth it to learn some basics because there are not many Russians out in town that speak English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This city is not friendly for the physically disabled. We were in Moscow for a year before we realized we hardly ever saw physically disabled people, except some who beg on the street or in the metro. The physically disabled are confined to their homes. It is quite sad.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I didn't use the public buses because they are very confusing, but the metro is great. it's cheap and one of the best in the world. You can't hail a yellow cab in the city, those are official taxis that you have to arrange for ahead of time. You can take gypsy cabs, which is paid hitchhiking. You put your arm out and a car can stop if they want to make extra money. You figure out the sum before the ride. You can take these but definitely avoid them if you are alone.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I think any kind of car is fine. Moscow is really good at clearing out the snow and ice, so you don't need an SUV or 4w drive. Just know that your car will get extremely dirty in the winter, and it's kind of hard to wash it, especially when you don't live on the embassy compound. People drive crazy here and it's a hard town to learn how to get around.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It's available. We paid about $60 a month for our Internet and it was pretty reliable and fast.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can bring your cell from the States and buy SIM cards.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are some good US-trained vets that can do all basic care and spaying/neutering. They come to your house. I don't know of any kennels, but most people get someone to cat/dog sit for them when they are on vacation.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I don't think so, and if you did you would have to know excellent Russian. I only heard of people getting EFM jobs in the Embassy.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Russian women dress more provocatively, and they mostly wear heels. It seems like Russians dress like Western Europeans did about 15 years ago.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Unhealthy. We never had problems but some people had allergy and breathing problems because of the pollution.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
Nothing different than you would get in the States.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pickpocketing and street scams are the most popular. Don't EVER pick up a wallet if someone drops it and don't try to pick up money on the ground. You may think you're being helpful, but it's a popular scam, so just walk on by. Violent crime isn't much of a concern but is on the rise, especially against darker-skinned minorities. There's a growing neo-Nazi and skinhead element in the city, so be aware. Basically, for everyone, if you don't walk alone at night, you should be fine. People should avoid taking gypsy cabs if possible, but if you do use them, don't ride in them by yourself.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is pretty good. There's a medical clinic in the embassy. For x-rays and ultrasounds there's a European hospital and an American hospital that give good care, though anyone who needs surgery or serious medical treatment will get medevac'd to London.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cold, long winters with not many hours of daylight. It's best to get a UV lamp or what we call a "happy lamp."
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don't have much experience with them, I can only tell you what I've heard. Most people took their children to the Ango-American School. I heard the highschool is excellent, but haven't heard great things about the elementary school. Parents of elementary school children would be able to tell you better information.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There's a daycare on the embassy and also nannies that are readily available.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Fairly large. There are many expat organizations, though I didn't run into many foreigners on the street. There are many things to get involved in, though.
2. Morale among expats:
I would say middle. Some people love it and some people can't wait to leave. Some people will hate every place they go, so don't let their negativity affect you. Just try to make the best of it and don't let the winter get you down. Get out and accept invitations when people invite you to dinner. I do find that two years in Moscow is enough, and most people are ready to leave when it's their time, but some people choose to extend.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of things to do. Clubs, restaurants...it just won't be cheap.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think it's a good place for families, but just beware of the commute you (or your kids going to school) may have because it might cut into family time. Otherwise, families seem to be doing well there. It's a good place for couples. Moscow is a playground for single men because the women are gorgeous. Single women don't seem to gain much from being there in terms of dating.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Probably not. Russians are not very accepting of homosexuality.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
My friends that are of Asian, African, Arab descent complained that people stared at them and treated them with distrust. I think Russia is used to being fairly isolated so they are pretty suspicious of other races or nationalities. That being said, Russians (at least Muscovites) are not the most outgoing, friendly people. Those with darker skin should avoid walking alone at night (as should everyone) since there are some skinheads that have committedviolent crimes against some minorities in the last several months. But overall, if you stay in a group and don't walk alone at night, you should be fine.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Lots of interesting tourist things to do. Red Square, Novodevitchy Convent, and some of the cities on the Golden Ring. There's lots of concerts, ballet and theater. Also, make a trip to St. Petersburg. To see the real Russia, GET OUT OF MOSCOW, though it can be difficult.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Matroshka (nesting) dolls, enamel boxes, wooden Santa Clauses, vodka, vodka and more vodka.
9. Can you save money?
Yes, things are expensive, but we managed to save quite a bit of money in Moscow.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, it was such a learning experience, but as of now I don't want to come back. I might feel differently in a few years. If we do ever come back I will NOT live in Rosinka. That is one thing that kept me from enjoying Moscow as much.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Idea that Moscow is easy to get around. It's very difficult to find your way at first and then it gets easier. The traffic and crowds and people can make everything, even the smallest things difficult. It is not a tourist-friendly city.
3. But don't forget your:
Sweaters, scarves, gloves, heavy winter coat. And definitely bring your umbrella, because it rains a lot in the spring and summer months. It's not Seattle by any stretch, but it still rains quite a bit.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Many. My favorites are War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy (long but SO good), The Mask and Margarita by Bulgakov and We The Living by Ayn Rand.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Many. My favorites are War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy (long but SO good), The Mask and Margarita by Bulgakov and We The Living by Ayn Rand.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The Borne Supremacy, The Saint (cheesy but was filmed in Moscow), Nightwatch, Transsiberian (not filmed in Moscow, but in Russia).
7. Do you have any other comments?
I think if you go in with a good understanding of Russian history you will appreciate the opportunity to live in Moscow and what a neat experience it can be.
