Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 07/18/13
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
We've lived in numerous other countries in Europe and Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington D.C. The direct United flight from Dulles to Moscow was discontinued last summer, which was a disapointment. Now you must connect through Frankfurt, Vienna or Geneva. The entire trip takes around 11 or 12 hours including layovers. However, there are rumors that United will start a direct flight again to/from Moscow, but maybe from Newark. This will certainly make for easier trips to the U.S.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year (halfway through a two-year tour).
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are three types of housing: the US Embassy compound, city apartments, and suburban, gated commuwnity living. People with school-aged children live either on the embassy compound or in the 'burbs. The embassy compound makes for a five-minute commute, but it's a bit of a fishbowl. The two suburban communities are really quite far out. Pokrovsky Hills, one of the suburban compounds, is co-located with the Anglo-American School, relatively far from the city center. Rosinka, the other suburban community, is even farther out and as far as I know, not even near a Metro station. The city apartments are located in the center of Moscow, all within an easy commute via public transporation to the embassy. We are in a city apartment and are very happy with our location. Some city apartments are on the older side with funky layouts, but some apartments are new and very nice. Overall, however, wherever you are housed, your housing may be smaller than what you are used to at other posts. Be judicious in what you bring as storage is most likely to be very limited.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Pretty much everything is available, albeit probably not the brands you're used to seeing back home. Groceries are not that much more than in the D.C. area. Go to the big chains (Auchan, Metro) for better prices than at the smaller stores. I haven't been able to find Greek-style yogurt or decent bagels, but pretty much everything else is here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We'd probably ship less rather than more. If there's a high-end brand of something you like, bring it (for example, the cost of a small bottle of Aveda shampoo is ridiculous, practically the price of liquid gold). Keep in mind your storage will probably be limited. The U.S. Embassy has a decent commissary for those American essentials you can't live without, but otherwise, we can and do get everything on the local economy.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, Burger King, Cinnabon, Dunkin Donuts, and Starbucks are all here. I've never eaten fast food here, but it's probably more expensive than back in the U.S. Starbucks is definitely pricier, but there are some good Russian chains that are less expensive. There are lots of Italian restaurants in Moscow. Muscovites seem to be obsessed with Uzbek cuisine and sushi. Russian restaurants abound, and Soviet-nostalgia-themed restaurants seem to be popping up. Anything you want to eat you can probably find. The Volkonsky bakery chain is very good. We've had wonderful, but very expensive, Indian food here. Have I mentioned that restaurants are expensive? Dinner for two at our favorite Indian place (including beer) is well over $100. Lunch can easily run $30 per person if you go out near the embassy. The food here is good, but you certainly pay for it.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I haven't noticed any in Moscow. Siberia is famous for mosquitoes and ticks. Bring repellent if you plan on doing some hiking in the more rural parts of Russia.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use DPO. Russian post is very unreliable, but DHL seems to work ok. Pony Express is notoriously bad.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available and relatively expensive. We have a cleaner from the Phillipines for a half-day every week for $50. That seems to be the going rate for Filipinas. Russian cleaners may be cheaper.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. The U.S. Embassy has a small gym. Many city apartment buildings have commercial gyms nearby, but they are expensive. Still, we got a deal by signing a contract in August as it was a low time of year for customers. I also go to a wonderful yoga studio. I just heard of an acquaitance who is doing circus training for fitness (trapezes, etc), so aparently that's available in Moscow.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Be very careful. We use a credit card at one of the larger grocery store chains and have not had a problem. My debit card was compromised after using it in an ATM inside of a bank, so use an ATM at your own risk. U.S. Embassy employees typically cash checks or use the ATMs inside the Embassy. Except for large stores and high-end restaurants, this is a cash society.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. LDS, Catholic, and Protestant. Not sure about synagogues.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The Moscow Times publishes daily and has a website that is constantly being updated. The Moscow News comes out weekly. Cable TV is available on the embassy compound -- which I'm assuming includes English-language channels. Many people have AFN, and one family we know brought their own satellite dish with them. I don't know how much cable television costs.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Quite a lot. There is not a lot of English here, and navigating the city without knowing how to read Cyrillic would make life very difficult. Russians are good at inferring what you are attempting to say in Russian, but the more Russian you have, the easier your time here will be.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Oh, too many to list here. 90% (or more) of the Metro system is not wheelchair accessible. Curbs aren't cut to accommodate wheelchairs. People park cars on sidewalks, so getting around for even the able bodied can be challenging at times. Sidewalks are icy in the winter. If you have a physical disability think twice about coming here, or else you'll be pretty much embassy-compound-bound. Which would be very dull.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local transportation is terrific. The Metro system is incredibly huge and efficient. Trolleybuses, regular buses and trams are all available. There are several radio taxi services but I've never taken one. The U.S. Embassy community association offers transportation services if you schedule them in advance. There is fast-train service to all three of Moscow's airports, which is important as traffic here is intense and unpredictable. Take the train to and from the airport whenever possible, avoiding a taxi. Trains within Russia are ok (the fast Sapsan trains are wonderful).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
No need for four-wheel-drive if you live in the city center. Parking is usually a challenge, so a smaller vehicle might serve better than an SUV. However, Russians are very agressive drivers and there are many many accidents daily, so bring something large enough that you will be protected in a crash. We didn't bring a car to post and have been fine using the excellent public transportation system here. A lot will depend on where your housing is.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes and no. Apparently the internet on the embassy compound is pretty good, and my friends who live at Pokrovsky have been able to contract with MTS to provide internet service which is fast. Those of us in the city apartments have more limited options as the apartments themselves are owned by the Russian government and normal internet providers cannot service them. Beeline wired service is available but speeds are capped at 2.5MB. We, and most of the people we know in city apartments, use Yota, which a 4G wireless connection through either a USB modem or modem+router combination. The speeds vary greatly dpeneding on demand, and the connection is quite volatile. We can only stream through a VPN about half of the time. Streaming on the local internet connection is ok if you can find something that will stream in Russia.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one. The U.S. Embassy provides cell phones to all employees. Otherwise get a phone and a SIM card here. If you want to use a smart phone from the U.S. try to bring it unlocked. Otherwise I'm sure you can have it unlocked here for a fee. You may need to bring some kind of documentation to get a SIM card, I'm not sure. Family members can get SIM cards through the U.S. Embassy community association.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is one vet that most people use who will come to your home to care for your animal. I do not know of any kennels -- most people have their neighbors or housekeepers feed the animals when they go away.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I don't think so. I'm not sure that there is a bilateral work agreement, and even if there is, anyone would need to be fluent in Russian to work locally. I think there are some substitute teaching slots at the Anglo-American School. Lots of EFMs are employed at the U.S. Embassy.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dressy. Russian women especially dress up. The U.S. Embassy is formal: suits and ties for men, suits/nice dresses for women.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In terms of violent crime, no. I don't know of anyone who has been robbed or mugged. There are other concerns that you'll learn about if you are with the U.S. Embassy. I feel very safe here, but I still don't take a lot chances (avoid dark underpasses when alone at night, etc). Crimes tend to be of an opportunistic nature, and if people are victimized, alcohol is usually involved.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Local Russian healthcare is poor. Expect to be medivac'd for anything that can't easily be treated at the Med unit. There is one good local hospital, the European Medical Clinic. It's very expensive, evidently, but they can do xrays and other kinds of imaging. Anyone I know who needed surgery was sent to London. American women who are pregnant do not give birth in Russia.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I think moderate to good, depending on where you live. I haven't noticed any particularly nasty air quality, so it's probably ok.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very long and very dark winters, short but beautiful summers. The darkness of the winter for some people is harder than the cold and the snow. Moscow deals with snow fairly well, so moving about during the dead of winter is easy as long as you're dressed appopriately. GSO offers SAD lamps to those who want one (but they run out quickly) and I found it very helpful. In the summer the sun sets very late -- and people are out taking advantage of the sun until late as well. I saw a family with young children playing in a playground at 11:00 pm (dusk) a few weeks ago.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We don't have kids but our friends all send their children to the Anglo-American School and seem happy enough. There was an issue last fall as parents felt that students weren't getting into prestigous colleges in the U.S. -- so they wanted the academics tightened up. It seems to be fine for the younger grades.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Anglo-American School does make accommodations. I'm not sure of the details, but I believe it is possible.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is daycare available at the embassy. Many people have nannies, often Filipina.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I think so, at the Anglo-American School.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large. Lots of other embassies and foreign businesses are here.
2. Morale among expats:
Mixed. It seems to depend on people's jobs and their comfort with the Russian language. Some jobs at the U.S. Embassy are inherently more difficult in Russia right now than others. Some people really get into Russian culture, and there are a number of Russophiles at the embassy who have been here, or in the region, on multiple tours. On the other hand, I also know people who have Google calendars on their smart phones giving them the number of days left until they leave post. The U.S. Embassy is huge and there is not a great deal of community spirit. But it can be cliquish and unfriendly here. We are having a good experience overall, but two years will be enough.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Dining out, some parties at peoples' homes. The distance between the suburban compounds and the center of Moscow means that if you live on the embassy compound or in a city apartment, chances are you won't be hanging out with your friends who live at Prokrovsky or Rosinka after hours. Our city apartment building is quite social. Compared to other posts people don't entertain at home much. There's a bar at the U.S. Embassy but it's small and tends to be the same faces there each time. We only go very occasionally.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for everyone in my opinion. The lack of green space may be an issue for families with young children. Most Moscovites live in apartments and take their children to the parks for fresh air.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
NO. Homophobic attitudes have been endorsed by recent legislation outlawing anything that "promotes homosexuality," which can be applied very broadly. There has been violence against gays and lesbians in regional cities in Russia. I would imagine an openly-gay couple in Russia, showing any display of affection in public, might actually be in danger. Of course within the embassy community it's fine and accepted, but in the greater Russians society, not at all.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
YES. Russians seem to be growing increasingly irritated by the influx of immigrants from Central Asia, with the "Russia for Russians" rhetoric really picking up steam. Those of African origin are enough of a novelty that I doubt they'd be targeted in Moscow, but if you are of East or Central Asian decent, you might have problems. Even diplomats from South Asia have felt uneasy at times in Moscow.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Walking around Moscow in the summertime, as there are lovely parts of this city -- but you have to look for them. Spending time in Gorky Park both in summer and in winter -- there's wonderful ice skating at Gorky, along with other parks in Moscow. We've enjoyed the cultural offerings. I've traveled quite a bit around Russia, which is a real must to get a sense of what Russia is really like. The northwestern part of Russia is especially interesting, and everyone who comes to Russia should really head to Siberia and Lake Baikal. Once you get past the often grumpy facade, Russian people are warm and more open than I had expected. Russians really know how to have a good time, that's for sure.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Lots and lots. Concerts, ballet, opera, lots of theater (in Russian). Big-name bands come here and play at a variety of clubs and arenas in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Two movie theaters show movies in their original language, including American releases. The park system here is lovely and extensive. St. Petersburg is great for a weekend getaway as the fast trains run constantly and it's only a four-hour trip. There are lots of restaurants with every kind of cuisine imaginable, but be warned: they are expensive. You can take any kind of class or have lessons of any kind you want -- I have friends who have learned to play musical instruments here -- private lessons are very affordable. Cooking classes are available. If you're with the U.S. Embassy, a local tour agency offers lots and lots of tours and programs. The museums are wonderful, and the contemporary art scene is actually quite active as well. If you like to go to clubs, Moscow has a lot, but usually with face control. Lots of little cafes and bars, many with outdoor seating in the summertime. If you can dream it up, it's probably available here.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Reproductions of icons, paintings by local artists, rugs from the Central Asian Republics, an endless array of matrioshka dolls, linen tablecloths, Ded Moroz and Snegorochka figurines.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Russian history is fascinating. This country is extremely varied with lots to see. Moscow is a wonderful cultural capital with inexpensive access to world-class ballet, opera and symphonic music. The museums here are wonderful, and it seems that most regional cities have outdoor museums of wooden architecture, which are fascinating.
11. Can you save money?
Many people say no, but we have saved quite a bit. We just don't go out to dinner as often as we have at other posts. If you want to go out to eat a couple of times a week, you'll spend a lot of money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably. But two years will be plenty. Expats from countries other than the U.S. will probably have a different experience here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
expectations that Russians will smile much--they don't. But it's not personal. And try not to look for logic in the way things work here.
3. But don't forget your:
Ugg boots for when it's cold and dry; luggy-soled heavy-duty snowboots for when it's cold and wet; coats with various factors of warmth; yak traks; mittens lined with sheepskin; good socks; sense of adventure; the ability to see humor in the absurd.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Anything by Pushkin. Master and Margarita by Bulgakov -- many of the settings in the book are in central Moscow.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Russia is not for the faint of heart, but it's a fascinating country.
