Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 05/29/11
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
US, nine hours to Dulles, on a direct flight
3. How long have you lived here?
10 months
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy people live in one of four places -- the compound, one of two suburban enclaves, or the city apartments. Currently, the city apartments aren't allowed if you have school-age children. One of the enclaves has a shuttle to the Embassy, the other has a shuttle to the metro. We live in the one w/ the shuttle to the metro. You can also walk around a kilometer to the nearest metro. My commute, without a car, is about 50 min, with a combination of walking and metro. Driving is about 45 min, but I don't have a car, so it's usually walk/metro for me. The commute from the city apartments is around 20 min, I think. In the compound, it's nothing, of course. The compound is apartments, the two enclaves are town houses. Ours is three stories, three bedroom/three bath. We like it.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are several types of grocery stores -- tiny produkti, huge 'gypermarkets', and the prices vary a lot. You can get good produce in the markets scattered around, for a good price. We order a few things from Amazon or Drugstore.com, but mostly buy local stuff. We're not trying to recreate our US kitchen, though. If you are, it's much more expensive. You can find most things you need here, though. Peanut butter has been the only real challenge, and that's available at the Embassy commissary, it's just a bit costly.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
vitamins, peanut butter. Really we get anything we want either by ordering online or buying it locally. We put some things in our HHE that we feel a little silly for shipping, now. But there are restrictions on liquids, I guess anything that is liquid or liquid-like, it's better to ship it in with your HHE, because you won't be able to get it mailed in later.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
We have most fast food here. McD's, Burger King, KFC, even a Chili's and Dunkin Donuts. There's also Baskin Robbins, and a Wendy's is supposed to open soon. Fast food is more expensive here than in the States. A Burger King lunch for three is about 800 rubles, so about $28. There are lots of expensive restaurants and some pretty affordable places. MyMy (moo moo) is a chain of inexpensive, cafeteria-style home-cooking that we like. Shockoladitza is a good coffee house/lunch place (around $15 for a lunch). Sushi is VERY popular for some reason, and there's a sushi place on every corner. You can also find Thai, Indian, Georgian, etc.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Produce is very widely available, and nothing seems to have high fructose corn syrup in it. I don't really look for any of the rest though, gluten-free, etc. But I also don't really remember seeing it in passing, either.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Haven't noticed much. Some mosquitoes in summer/spring.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We have a Russian house-keeper who comes 3x a week for about four hours, and who cooks and cleans. We pay her about $7 an hour (the ruble equivalent). You can also hire Filipina help, but they charge more and you have to make sure their visa allows them to work. Lots of people have full-time nannies.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a gym, and if your kid goes to AAS you can use their facility. I've seen ads on the metro for gyms, but don't know anything more about them.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I only use the ATMs at the embassy or AAS. There are skimmers and fake ATMs out there, and a lot of places don't take credit cards, anyway. We live on cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I don't really know. We go to the Jewish Community Center events occasionally, but they're in Russian. There's a Reform congregation that has their services in English, but we haven't gone.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The Moscow Times is in English. There are a few English language stations on cable. Ours comes with our house, so I don't know how much it would cost otherwise. I mainly get my news online.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
As much as possible! Most Russians don't speak English, most signs aren't translated. It's best if you can at least shop in Russian and at least be able to decipher Cyrillic.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many. There aren't any curbcuts or ramps or anything you'd need to get along in a wheelchair. The streets and sidewalks are uneven, potholed, and crowded. You see an occasional wheelchair, and I've seen bystander help someone out but I often wonder how they manage. No handicap parking spaces, either.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Metro, bus, trolley, trams -- all easy to use and inexpensive. There are also 'marschrutkas', little vans that go on set routes, for about 85 cents, we use them all the time with no problems. No seat belts, but I just hope for the best on that. There are cabs that can be ordered, and real cabs that you flag down, and gypsy cabs which are just people who pull over when flagged. I don't use them, normally, but I have a couple of times and had no problems. Just get the fare agreed upon ahead of time, and use some sense. Don't do it alone, for instance, if you're female. And better not to choose a young man or a pair of men. Probably better to stick with the more official things like the metro, really.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We don't have a car, but most of my friends who have them have either a small beater car or a small-ish SUV. Traffic is bad, finding parking is bad, there are lots of wrecks. So don't bring anything you'll be heartbroken to ding up.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
I have MTS, it's about $36 a month, and is fast enough to stream, if you can find something that will stream to Russia.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I got mine from work, my husband bought his at the embassy. But there are kiosks and stores where you can buy pay-as-you go phones.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, but there's a protocol to follow that includes a rabies shot at least 30 days but less than a year before you arrive and a health check 10 days before, and a certificate from the USDA. Plan ahead!!!
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is a good house-call vet that nearly everyone uses. Our cat developed diabetes and he's getting good care.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. It's difficult to get permission to work in Russia.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At the embassy, suits required for both men and women. On the street, you see a variety. It's ok to wear jeans, etc. Women tend to dress up, but the fashions seem more like 1989 than now, and are very tight and revealing and include outrageously high heels. Don't even try to keep up, just dress neatly and comfortably.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pickpockets, especially on the metro. If you're US Embassy, there are other things the RSO will talk to you about.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We haven't had any real problems, although falls are common in winter. The embassy med unit is good, and they'll send you to the European Medical Center for anything that requires X-rays, etc. People are medevac'd for anything even slightly complex, though.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Supposedly bad, but it seems ok most of the time. Last summer, there were forest/peat bog fires and the air got unbreathable. You couldn't see across the street, it was so bad. The US Embassy allowed family members and employees to go to back to the US until it improved. Hopefully, we won't have a repeat this summer.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cold winters, lots of snow. It started snowing in early November, and didn't stop until April. I think our coldest week it got down to about -27C. But once the snow melted, it warmed up quickly. Summer can be hot -last year it was around 40C quite a bit of July/August. Right now, it's Spring, and it's beautiful out. Sunny most days and the temps are around 24C. Fall was nice, too. We arrived in late summer, so I haven't seen June yet.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Anglo-American School of Moscow is within the gate/fence of one enclave. There's a British American school out at the other enclave, but I don't know much about it. The AAS is good, they use the PYP and International Baccalaureate programs. We've had good luck so far, but we only have experience with 3rd grade. But the teachers are very communicative and the curriculum seems good. There are good afterschool activities at no charge, our daughter has enjoyed that a lot. They have ice-skating in winter for PE, and swimming at other times during the year (indoor pool) and a great library. It's also wonderful that our daughter can walk or ride her bike to/from school all on her own. The facility is new, and very affluent, with everything you can think of. The cafeteria serves real meals -- things like grilled salmon, rather than chicken nuggets like you might see in the US. They have a lot of visiting artists, etc and other events. The only thing we could complain about is the Russian language program. Don't expect your child to actually learn to speak the language, if they come in without it. They put native speakers, legacy speakers, and kids with no experience at all together in one class. The kids get one half-hour class per week for K and 1st grade, two for 2nd, 3 for third, 4 for 4th, and then five for subsequent years. But they don't teach much grammar, etc until at least 4th grade. My daughter has fun, but it's a good thing she doesn't really need the language to get by. The school is going to start requiring uniforms for the next school year. They're supposed to be available at The Gap and Marks and Spencer, but they haven't gotten it all figured out yet. There is a PE uniform, too, but they've had that all along. Tee shirts for PE are available at the school, but the other uniform pieces won't be.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I've heard there aren't many.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
AAS has sports, the Embassy has some, and I know a few people who have enrolled their kids in programs in the city.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty large. There are lots of Embassies and US companies here.
2. Morale among expats:
Mixed. Some of us love it, some hate it, some have a love/hate relationship. I think it would be hardest for a single woman.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly we do things with other people from my work. A lot of neighborhood parties, etc.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
We've found it to be good for our family, and my single and couple friends seem to like it, too. There are a lot of clubs and restaurants, but they're expensive. We do a lot things in our neighborhood, and that's very family friendly.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I haven't heard anything specific, but I've heard it's not that great. There is prejudice, etc and we've never seen an openly gay couple in public.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I'd say yes, some, especially if you have a dark complexion. There are skinheads and I've heard of some people having problems. And if you look like you're from the Caucasus or Central Asia, that can be an issue, too. Russian men tend to be sort of sexist and there's a phrase "If he loves you, he hits you", but if you're not dating Russians, it will manifest itself in things like opening doors or holding your coat for you, which isn't terrible.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The metro! I know it sounds weird, but it is cheap and efficient and you can get around without a car. We've also taken advantage of cheap airfare to Europe to take several trips. Good street food. Interesting work
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Just walking around and absorbing the culture is fun. But we also like the touristy things like Red Square, the Moscow river boat cruise, Ismailovo Market, etc. There are several circuses, lots of theaters, a Cat Circus. One movie theater that shows English-language movies. Parks, restaurants, malls.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Matrushka dolls, amethyst, enameled trays and boxes
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Living in a culture so different from US culture, the sights, foods, opportunities to travel
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you do not eat out frequently and if you are willing to shop for local items and forgo pre-packaged food.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
YES!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
fears of long lines to buy a loaf of bread, your Soviet-era mental image, and your smile when on the street.
3. But don't forget your:
sense of the absurd, your patience, your fur hat, good strong boots with luggy soles, your ice skates and cross-country skis. Also don't forget your open mind.
