Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 01/01/11
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my 7th overseas experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
10 hours to New York on Delta or Aeroflot.
3. How long have you lived here?
This is my 2nd tour here.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
US diplomats live on several compounds, including near the embassy and near the school; others live far away in Rosinka, a 60-90 min 1-way commute.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive, as is everything else.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cold-weather gear.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Tons. Street food is tasy and good (e.g. shashlik, doner kebab, grilled chicken) as well McD's, etc. Restaurants are plentiful and very expensive.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes during the summer.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available but pricey.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. Private gyms are expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Be careful using credit-cards and ATMs w/r to scams.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Moscow Times
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
To get around safely and efficiently, you really need some Russian --- more is better. People with no Russian struggle here, although more younger people speak English than before.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Plenty! This city is not equipped for disabled persons.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Metro is very reliable but signs are in Russian. Safety --- sort of like NYC.Gypsy cabs are safe if one speaks Russian and has street-smarts.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A reliable vehicle is helpful. The mud and grime will ruin the car's body, so frequent car-washes are necessary especially in the winter. Driving here is a nightmare.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You need one.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Variable. There are numerous EFM jobs within the US Embassy.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are several concerns: 1. high crime; 2. racial/hate crimes, driven by xenophobia towards persons of color (even diplomats are not immune); 3. Soviet attitudes (ex: FSB) and police corruption remain problematic.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Local care varies. People with serious medical and mental-health issues generally require medical evacuation to western Erurope or the US, where there is a higher standard of care.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fair to poor. I have lived in worse places.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter is harsh. The Russian winter defeated both Napoleon's and Hitler's armies. That speaks for itself.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
AAS is an excellent school, with a demanding IB program.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Minimal. AAS can only accomodate kids with mild needs, for a maximum of 5 hours/week.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Numerous pre-schools are available near the embassy and downtown.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, both through the school and via sports clubs for youth.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge.
2. Morale among expats:
It varies. People who speak Russian, who have lived in - and enjoyed - HUGE cities (ex: New York, Chicago), and who are interested in Russian history/culture love this place. But many expats struggle; it is a very challenging post to live and work in.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Plentiful
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles and couples can do fine. For families with school-age kids, activities center around the school and its extra-curricular offerings.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
See above comments. Huge problems with racism, xenophobia, and hate crimes (including violent assualts, murders).
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I have delighted in visiting the Kremlin, Red Square, St. Basil's Cathedral, and numerous art museums and cathedrals.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Cultural attractions, historical attractions, and restaurants.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Artifacts, art, and travel within Russia and outside of Russia for those much-needed 'respite' breaks.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Russia offers a historic, great, and rich culture; Moscow has so much to offer in this regard. Further afield, one can visit St. Petersburg, Sergiev Posad, etc.
11. Can you save money?
No. It's even more expensive than large cities in western Europe.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. This is a fascinating city and country, and there is much to experience here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Russia is not for the weak or faint of heart. Realistic expectations are a necessity. People with lousy attitudes do poorly here; people who hate long winters should NOT come here.
3. But don't forget your:
Good cheer, curiosity, and open-minded attitudes. Clothing from companies such as Patagonia, LL Bean, REI, and Eddie Bauer is a must.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Andrew Meier's Black Earth; Orlando Figes' Natasha's Dance; The Russia Reader; Anthony Beevor's Stalingrad; works by Tolstoy, Andrei Makine, Joseph Brodsky, Chekhov, Dostoevsky, Pushkin, and Gogol.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Gorky Park; Dr. Zhivago; The Russia House; Enemy at the Gates; The Hunt for Red October.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Russia is unique; while its relations with the west (including the US) are much improved, it is NOT Europe --- understanding this point is key to adapting here. Learn from the locals, and they will teach one what is needed to adapt and survive here.
