Lisbon, Portugal Report of what it's like to live there - 04/27/21
Personal Experiences from Lisbon, Portugal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Portugal is the eighth country I've lived in.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Direct flights to the US are easy and relatively painless.
3. What years did you live here?
2019-2022
4. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
USG
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Large house with pool in the suburbs (Cascais). Feels like a snooty gated community--all of the houses have large walls and no one talks to their neighbors. Takes 20-50 minutes to Lisbon depending on traffic.
There are also apartments in the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Cascais is more expensive than the city, so really it's not much cheaper than DC. We've been able to find most things, with the exception of certain Asian foods.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing really.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Glovo and UberEats for delivery. In the suburbs, we've found decent Italian, but no Korean or Thai worth eating. Portuguese cuisine is okay, but really nothing spectacular--although the pastries are phenomenal.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None. Although the windows don't have screens so every now and again a mosquito will wander in.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO/pouch. I've also used local delivery without issue.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Unknown.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gym near us is fine. Personal trainer for $20 an hour.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Very safe.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It seems that many long-term expats don't bother to learn any Portuguese, and there seems to be a bit of (understandable!) resentment, at least where we are in the suburbs. I've found that my Portuguese is greatly appreciated.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
YES. Sidewalks are uneven cobblestone.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Streets in the city can be somewhat narrow so I'd advise against a huge minivan.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it took about a week.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Vet care is excellent. Cheaper than the US but more expensive than all of our other posts.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are animal shelters, programs to help the needy, etc.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Excellent medical care at very low cost compared to the US.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Perhaps pollen or dust.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
None.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winters are very humid, summers very dry. We needed dessicants for our closets.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Our kids have enjoyed CAISL more than any of their previous schools. We've found the administration very responsive and the teaching staff superb.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, martial arts, horseback riding, various sports including surfing, etc.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Our suburb feels like it is almost entirely entitled rich expats, which frankly isn't my cup of tea. The embassy community does not seem particularly close knit, at least out here in the suburbs.
I think many people aren't all that happy, but would never admit it because, you know, it's Portugal.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I've tried several expat groups (there are a million on Facebook), but didn't really click with any of them. Unlike all of our previous posts, we haven't made any close local friends either. We've found the Portuguese out here in the suburbs to be a bit... provincial. The city itself may be different.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Sure, if you are looking for an easy expat life, surrounded by other expats. There are good schools, good medical care and good nightlife (in the city); it's safe and consumer goods readily available.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Lisbon may be different, but we've found it nearly impossible to make local friends out here in the suburbs--unlike all of our previous posts (and yes, we speak Portuguese and are active in the community).
The Portuguese, at least in Cascais, do not seem particularly open, warm nor welcoming. It feels to us that the national pastime is complaining, and there is ZERO joie de vivre. Whenever we hear someone laugh out loud, we joke that they must be Brazilian (and they always are).
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, it's very LGBTQIA friendly. Unless you're Black.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Many Portuguese are quite racist against Black people--especially Black Brazilians. It's not as overt as many places we've lived, but it's not the big rainbow coalition they pretend it to be either. It's my understanding many landlords refuse to rent to Brazilians.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
We love Evora and the Convento dos Capuchos in Sintra, but there are a million museums, parks, etc here.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not compared to our previous posts. There are tiles...
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Safe, health care, availability of goods, schools.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I'd noticed that whenever anyone raved about Portugal, they NEVER mentioned the people. For us, people are more important than sun, wine, and consumer goods. I'd rather dodge landmines in the developing world surrounded by people with soul and joie de vivre than lounge on a beach amidst a bunch of hoity-toity expats and locals who all look like their dog just got run over.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. It's just not our cup of tea.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Desire to actually be part of a local community.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humour. It's in short supply here.
5. Do you have any other comments?
My answers are based on my experience living in a wealthy suburb (think Chevy Chase), so they are probably quite different from those of someone living in the city.