Lisbon, Portugal Report of what it's like to live there - 06/10/12
Personal Experiences from Lisbon, Portugal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my umpteenth experience as an expat - others include Hanoi, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Rangoon, New Delhi, Binfield, Incheon, Dehra Dun.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
A 10-16 hour trip to D.C. with one stopover - in Paris, Newark, London, or Frankfurt.
3. How long have you lived here?
9 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Foreign Service Officer.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The housing pool is divided into two - apartments in the city and houses in the suburbs. The houses, all generally located in the upscale Cascais area, are large, comfortable and have pools, for the most part. They're also closer to the International schools. Traveling to work takes 40 minutes and includes road tolls both ways, which can add up. Some use public transport, but it involves at least two kinds of transportation (train, then bus or metro) and can take upwards of an hour. Apartments in the city are sprinkled in a convenient radius around the Embassy, and generally close to public transportation. With a few awkward exceptions, the apartments are comfortable, spacious.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The NEX (Navy exhange) will make a huge difference in keeping your shopping bill manageable if you work at the embassy. Supermarkets run at European prices.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You can find a little of every kind of food in the world in Lisbon. There are Middle-eastern fast food options, Indian/Nepali restaurants abound, amazing pizza joints, classy seafood joints, Michelin starred chefs, traditional restaurants serving Portuguese or Brazilian specialties, chic fusion joints.... Food and drink by itself could completely deplete your checkbook. One caveat: while there are tons of east Asian restaurant choices, very few of them are any good.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
There are a multitude of options -- exclusively organic supermarkets, and many supermarkets that have an organic section that spans several aisles. The organic wave has hit big in Portugal. It's very easy to shop and cook vegetarian in Portugal, but eating out can be a nightmare. Portuguese restaurants serve olives, bread, fish, and meat, maybe a salad. Yes, that's over-simplified, but I hope you get the picture - eating out vegetarian is not easy. Pizza again, anyone?
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are insects around if you really hunt for them - they're not a problem.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Another surprise: getting domestic help is relatively affordable - 30-60 Euros a day, I've heard, but I could be wrong.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms will cost you - 100 Euros for the nice gyms. The embassy has a pathetic gym (however historic of a building it lives in) but the price is right (free) and it's convenient for a workout before/after work or during lunch.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use credit cards almost anywhere -- and where you can't, you can use a debit card (if it has a pin #).
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, the whole range.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. Cable TV with a few channels and hi-speed internet costs as little as 40 Euros a month (and as much as 120, depending on how many channels you want).
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You really don't need to know the language to get around - everyone speaks great English here. But you will feel at home sooner and enjoy your experience much more if you can read and communicate, and order your coffee the right way in Portuguese.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The cobblestone sidewalks everywhere might prove an inconvenience. Plenty of accommodation exists for the sight and hearing impaired, and wheelchair access is the norm.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Surprise: taxis are very affordable here. Metro is reliable, safe and cheap. Buses, too, if you care to figure out their schedules. Great train system, too (but not fast). Public transport for inside the city, cars for trips outside.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any car will do, but if your car is too big, you'll pay higher tolls. The tolls can be very pricey! Thirty-five Euros or more for a round-trip day excursion, and that's the lowest tolls.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cellphones are easy to get, easy to change plans, easy to refill. The hard part is choosing which phone you want.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Outside of embassy EFM jobs, No, not really at all. The embassy is only just now getting a reciprocal work agreement with the Portuguese, but considering the state of the economy, it'd be tough and you'd have to speak fluent Portuguese.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal at work (Portuguese are very fine dressers) and casual outside of work.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pickpocketing, petty theft, and crimes of opportunity. A little situational awareness will keep you right as rain, though.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Public medical care is adequate, I understand, and private care is excellent. It would be the odd, serious, and uniquely complicated illness that would require a medevac to London.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Sea breezes are the lungs of the city and keep the air quality pretty good year round. It can get a little hazy if it goes too long without winds (and it almost never does - it's a windy city) or rains.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather is Mediterranean. Winters are rainy, cool (I wore a heavy coat maybe 3 or 4 times this last winter, at night). The weather really is almost perfect all of the time except for the drizzly winters.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
The U.S. Embassy has a very affordable nursery/preschool on-site, which is a Godsend for parents with infants and young kids who don't want to be far separated from them.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lots, and of a great variety.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
2. Morale among expats:
The morale among expats is great - working in the Embassy is generally a positive experience for everyone here. People complain, because that's what we humans do... be prepared to hear a diatribe against Portugal's hallowed Bacalhau (salted dried cod) as soon as you arrive.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Folks have a difficult time squeezing in dinners and hosting events, in between the action-packed social and night life here.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This posting has plenty for just about everyone. Families with kids seem very happy with the education they get. There is an active night life, with night clubs often pumping until 6 or 7 am (problem is, no dancing starts until around 1 am at the earliest) and a huge drinking district (Bairro Alto) on a hill with dozens of alleys closed to traffic, where revelers spill out onto the streets. There is plenty of family fun too, including parks, museums, amusement parks (the biggest water park in Western Europe is a short drive away).
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The short answer, it's fantastic! The more nuanced answer: Surprisingly, for a country where gay marriage is institutionalized, Portugal's LGBT scene is hidden away. Despite fantastic legal recognition and protection for LGBT individuals, Portugal remains a society with conservative views and affectionate expression among the same sex is rare to see. (You don't even see PDA from that many straight couples either, compared to France, Spain, Italy). Still, there's plenty of mixed and LGBT bars and clubs, and an underground party scene.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Portugal has an evolving and uncomfortable relationship with its former colonies. Racism is an issue (though Portuguese would never admit it). Racist undertones exist -- graffiti in some back alleys, the occasional awkward social interaction. But discriminating acts are rare, and blatant racism is practically nonexistent. While not the most progressive nation when it comes to women's rights, it's still Western Europe progressive. There is little religious prejudice - Portugal does as well as their European neighbors (and often better) in their relationship with the Muslim community.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Very much enjoyed road trips to various Portuguese towns and villages. Many great day trips from Lisbon, including Sintra, Evora, Coimbra, and overnight trips to the Algarve, Porto. The Douro river valley is breathtaking.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Experiences! Food, wine, entrance fees. Portuguese leather and shoes are renowned, and there's plenty of pottery and cork products to buy as gifts.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Beautiful weather, historical buildings, comforts of living in Western Europe, great beaches, Iberian nightlife, safe to wander alone even at night, a beach IN the city, and great beaches a 40 minute drive away
11. Can you save money?
No, you cannot.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Why, yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Consumables - shopping at the NEX is affordable, and you'll want to eat out most of the time, anyway.
3. But don't forget your:
beach wear, appetite for exploration.
