Lisbon, Portugal Report of what it's like to live there - 10/23/11
Personal Experiences from Lisbon, Portugal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No: Parma, Italy; Mexico City, Mexico; Cairo, Egypt; Caracas, Venezuela; Montevideo, Uruguay; Tegucigalpa, Honduras
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Tampa, FL: average flight times are 12-15 hours. There is now a direct flight to Miami(8hours) with only one connection to Tampa. Another direct flight to Newwark (8 hours), but requires up to 2 more connections to Tampa. There are a variety of connections and flights.
3. How long have you lived here?
2009-2012 (been here 2+ years at this point).
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Suburb living comes in any shape and size desirable. Commute to the city if working in central Lisbon varies from 30 min to 1 hour depending on how far out along the linha you are in the suburbs (going north along the coast) and the traffic patterns which are much, much heavier during the school year. City living is apartment living and quite small, but very convenient, many amenities. Can be noisy due to air traffic patterns over the heart of the city. Parking is limited.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find just about anything (expect perhaps Mexican ethnic ingredients).Costs are generally higher than in the US, but not much higher than an expensive city. Beef is very expensive, but fish, chicken and good pork are reasonably priced. We lose on the exchange rate. Often prices are what you would expect in the US, but in Euros (if I'd pay $2 in the US, I might pay 2-3 euros here and lost on the exhange rate plus much higher taxes - up to 25%, but less on many fresh food items)
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Rain gear and winter clothing. Clothing and shoes are expensive here and sized small. On the local economy with babies, ship lots of disposable diapers in array of sizes, they are expensive. Portuguese make their own baby food and the prepackaged stuff isn't as easy to find and is expensive.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
American fast food is limited, but there are a couple prerequisite McDonalds, one Burger King, a couple Pizza Huts. Portuguese "fast-food" is fresh, home cooked style, usually a plate of the day for about 6 euros that is a full sized meal, but made quickly for the lunch crowd. Eating quickly is not in the Portuguese culture. Restaurants and costs are in every range and taste. Local cuisine at a local place on a small street: 6 euros for lunch, 8-12 for dinner and goes up to the most elegant and no price limit. Nice dinner at a nice place averages 20 euros.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
There are many bio and natural food and supply stores, but they are expensive. Organic suppliers and markets are growing, but again, more expensive. Vegetarian is widely available and allergy friendly can be easily found in the bio/natural stores. Plenty of gluten free and lots of soy - I find the soy even more readily available in a variety of forms than in the US. I have many vegetarian friends here who have no problems.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Flies and mosquitoes are moderate. Ants seem to be built into every house and come and go with the rain and seasons.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Portuguese mail system and international mail to and throughout EU is good. We are with the embassy, though and use mostly the DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Average housekeeper will charge approximately 6-8 euros per hour and babysitting might be as much as 10 euros per hour. Readily available for day work. Very few live-ins unless they are a young college student through a nanny service.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, widely available with varying membership fees to include Golf clubs.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Debit cards and credit cards are the norm here. Just check with your home bank on fees. Multibanco ATMs are literally everywhere and almost every retail or food establishment will take plastic. Beware of the typical card scams and stay alert when using cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Very few; one each of the following that I'm aware of: Catholic, Anglican and Non-denominational protestant. Catholic in both Lisbon and Cascais, Anglican only in Lisbon and non-denom in Cascais. I believe there is a small English-speaking Jewish community - I'm not sure about the service.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, if you purchase a cable package (about 75 euros per month bundled together with wideband internet and landline phone). One good newspaper that is on-line only (free) and one not-so-good print newspaper (2 euros?) that is out of the Algarve and isn't very relevant to Lisbon.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Some basics at least. In the tourist areas English to some degree is spoken, but a little Portuguese will get you friendlier service and a few less complications, especially if you get away from the tourist areas.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Significant! Although one will find handicapped parking spaces in larger parking lots at places such as malls and many places with elevators, this is by and large a very old city with little modernization or capacity to and cobblestone streets and sidewalks or the lack of plus the lack of ramps and entryways and elevators to accommodate a physical disability are the norm.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Safe, yes. Somewhat limited lines and connections can be time-consuming and inconvenient when coming from the suburbs all the way into the city and usually takes longer and costs more than the commute by car. A monthly pass used regularly can be more cost effective. Average taxi around Lisbon will cost around 10 euros.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Small and economical is best for Portugal and all of Europe. Gas is up over $8 per gallon (1.53-1.56 euros per liter, Oct 2011) and parking spaces, garages, driveways and parking garages are all very small. Parts of American made and specs cars are non-existent and finding a mechanic or service for an American vehicle is difficult and expensive. American spec cars must be converted to EU specs with the exception of diplomatic cars which will be exported at the end of an assignment.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Bundled together with cable TV and landline phone is about 75 euros/month. There are a plethora of offers, packages and unlimited deals. One has to shop around. There is also wide band mobile - looks like a thumb drive you plug in for mobile internet for starting around 30 euros and pay as you go.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
All of Europe uses GSM and a US cell phone will not work here. Some can be unlocked. Buy a phone once you get here. You buy the phone outright them sign up for the service you want and it's cheaper than in the US and very easy pay as you go options.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, but do check the internet for EU standards depending on the country you are coming from. Pets coming from the US have no problems with the correct paperwork and up to date vaccines. Coming from Africa - rabies and blood tests and a more detailed and highly documented process is involved.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Very good - the Portuguese love their dogs!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. Portugal is in an economic crisis, second only to Greece at the moment and there are no jobs to be had and fewer expat opportunities.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Not necessarily formal, but chic. Europeans like to look good and even with cobblestone sidewalks, most local women will be heals. No sweats and few sneakers in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No. Lisbon is one of the lowest risk threat cities in Europe (however common pick pocketing and petty crime to exist, especially in tourist areas.)
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Very good.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Excellent as we are right on the coast; however, it is a somewhat humid/damp climate that leaves many people with upper respiratory and allergy issues. Colds, congestion and coughs seem to hang on forever.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is mild with 2 distinct seasons (Summer/Winter) and short, barely discernible Spring/Fall. Summer(Jun-Aug) is warm in the low 80sF with the occasional foray into the low 90sF for a short couple weeks usually in August. Winter(Nov-Feb)is rainy and damp with temperatures that vary from 60F as low as high 30sF)Spring and Fall are basically a one month to 6 week transition of increasing or decreasing rain. Because of being on the Atlantic coast, sudden weather and barometric pressure changes are common.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I am well associated with all the international schools due to my work and find them all adequate with a wide variety of choices for families:CAISL; St. Julian's, International Preparatory School(primary only), Oeiras International School(secondary only at present), St. Dominic's. All have websites.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Very limited and on a case by case basis for mild special needs. Best to contact the schools early with as many details as possible to find out. There are no options that I'm aware of for severe cases.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Widely available in every neighborhood. Predominantly Portuguese speaking, some are bilingual and some bilingual with English. They are somewhat costly. The US Embassy has an on-site day care for its employees which is significantly less expensive.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Portuguese schools do not have integrated sports programs and the culture depends heavily on sports club membership.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Maybe 5000? Not large and many are retirees. Maybe a few hundred Americans, most are Brits and then other Europeans as Portugal continues to be one of the least expensive EU countries with the best weather.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is no limit - from high society and cultural events to rock concerts to dining out, in home entertaining, movies, clubs, dancing, Fado... or just enjoying the outdoors from April-October surfing, on the beaches and at the cafes and sidewalk eateries.
3. Morale among expats:
Generally good.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
All of the above! Even living in the city can be good and easy with children as there are many activities and parks and good family spaces as well as many apartment complexes with common green areas and pools. Commute to the schools, which are all in the suburbs, seems relatively equal no matter where students live. High school students tend to congregate and socialize mainly in Cascais.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Some darker skinned expats (Latinos and African-Americans for example) have experienced prejudices that they feel are based on color when they are potentially confused with Brazilians or from the Portuguese territories in Africa or the Islands.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Exploring the many layers of the city of Lisbon and it's history and architecture, plus Lisbon is a major stopping place on many cultural and band tours. There are more concerts and cultural activities than one could ever keep up with, though we try!
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Castles, Palaces, Zoo, Aquarium, parks, cultural activities & festivals, concerts, car & motorcycle racing, equestrian, soccer games, beaches, travel, museums... www.golisbon.com for more ideas!
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Cork products and accessories - from purses to ties to even umbrellas and shoes. Pottery! Food and wine (although good wine and even food can be more affordable than in the US. A glass of house wine with dinner is less than a soda.)
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Beautiful country, somewhat old-world still, lots of history, palaces, churches, castles to visit. One of the cheaper countries in Europe and milder climate which is beautiful from April to October. Moderate winters, especially along the southern region of the Algarve.
11. Can you save money?
US government employees have access to shopping on the compound and a cola, some with two incomes. If you are totally on your own on the local economy and a US$ paycheck, probably not.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. I wouldn't want to stay here forever, but it's a charming country that you can spend 2-3 years exploring and enjoying on an expat assignment.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
n/a - even though winters are mild here, travel to even Spain or other snow countries is easy and many do enjoy going to the snow and skiing vacations.
3. But don't forget your:
Rain gear is a necessity and I would highly recommend good socks and flannel sheets for winter as the damp sets in, beds get very cold.
