Lisbon, Portugal Report of what it's like to live there - 08/24/11
Personal Experiences from Lisbon, Portugal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Second. First was Rio de Janeiro.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I'm based in Washington. There are direct flights from NY, which take about 6 hours. Add the connection from the flight from DC and you're looking at 8 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For Embassy employees, it's either in the city (people are spread all over the place) or Cascais. If you're in the city, you can get to and from work in 10-15 minutes, unless there's a bad traffic jam (happens once in a while). If you're in the suburbs, it's 30 minutes without traffic but the traffic can get very backed up. And you have to pay really expensive tolls. People with kids generally go to Cascais to have a big house and pool, though some recent Embassy employees with kids have bucked the trend for the convenience of the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Nothing in Portugal is cheap -- except for wine and cod fish. But most foods are not terribly expensive. And the Embassy has a smallish NEX that sells a lot of U.S. goods at U.S. prices (though they tend to run out of some things -- like ice cream and Diet Coke -- over and over).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
"Off" spray repellant -- to spray on your arms and legs in the summer. Rogaine -- because you cannot order it from the U.S., they don't sell it in the NEX and you seem to need a prescription to get it here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast food is (almost) as plentiful as in the U.S. McDonald's, Burger King and KFC are omnipresent, though they cost more than in the U.S.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
I'm not on the hunt for this stuff, but it seems to be plentiful.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
During the summer, there seem to be lots of mosquitos.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The Embassy has a DPO and personal pouch. You can get most things that way, though there are some annoying restrictions. It usually takes 2-3 weeks to get a package.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I pay my maid 7 euros and hour and she comes once a week for four hours. She does a good job and works hard, but she's Brazilian (not Portuguese).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms are plentiful but they are expensive. Expect to pay more than $100 per month and face constant pressure to pay even more for personal training sessions. The Embassy has a small gym that some of the more hearty employees use.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Same as in U.S.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Portugal is still predominantly Catholic, though few people seem to go to the country's many churches. You'll find a small Jewish community here as well. And there are some 40,000 Muslims and a big mosque in Lisbon.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
With the Internet, you can get all the English language news you need. There is also an English language paper in the Algarve (though it isn't very good).Lots of American TV shows are in English with Portuguese subtitles. You can get BBC News and CNN International in English on cable, as well as ESPN America.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It depends. Most young people in Lisbon seem to know at least some English. There's more variation in the older populations, although waiters at all levels of restaurants frequently speak some English. You'll even find some taxi drivers who speak English (they won't know how to go where you want to go, but they know English).However, without at least a little Portuguese, it might be very tough outside Lisbon.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Lisbon is not a friendly city for anyone with disabilities. Ramps are rare and cobblestone streets are common.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains, subways and buses are reliable, relatively inexpensive and safe. Taxis are pretty cheap (unless you get the occasional driver who tries to rip off a foreigner).However, taxi drivers can be extremely rude and many don't know how to get to major destinations.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
People bring all types of cars here but -- especially if you are going to live in Lisbon -- a smaller car is better. Some streets are very narrow and garages have low-hanging ceilings and narrow ramps and spaces. Larger SUVs may also have to pay higher tolls (not to mention more on gasoline, which is VERY expensive).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Available but expensive. My service is quite good (I use Zon) but for a package of cable, Internet and a "land line" phone I never use I pay $150 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you have a cellphone that will work in Europe you can get a chip and pay as you go. It's not cheap, however. Some of the companies (like Vodafone) are more expensive than others.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Absolutely not. The embassy has only a couple of jobs for family members, and non-American family members are usually not eligible. Outside the embassy, some family members have gotten teaching jobs at the American School. But legally they are not supposed to be working there, as there is no agreement with the government to let diplomatic spouses work. And other than that, you are out of luck. Even if you are fluent in English and Portuguese, your chance of getting a job in Lisbon is low. Unemployment is very high and most employers will reject you sight unseen if you're a foreigner.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Same as in U.S.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Taxi drivers either drive painfully slow or like maniacs. Other than that, and the type of crime you expect in any modern city, Lisbon is very safe. You can walk virtually anywhere at any time of day.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health care is on par with health care in the U.S., and in some ways better.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The quality of the air is similar to air quality in the U.S.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It can get hot (up to 100 degrees) in July and August but usually it cools off quite a bit at night, with pleasant breezes. The rest of the year it is generally in the 60s and 70s during the day, except during January and February when 50s during the day and 40s at night is perhaps more typical.(On rare occasions it might get into the 30s at night.)
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty big, considering.
2. Morale among expats:
Morale at the embassy is pretty good. It's hard to hate Lisbon, though it may not be a city you fall in love with either.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most of the big music acts come to Lisbon. Restaurants are ok. Cinemas are everywhere. Like any big (or biggish) city.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Lisbon is a pretty good city for anyone. It's not the most exciting city in the world (it can be a little sleepy) but it's relatively cosmopolitan.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The laws in Portugal are very gay friendly. The people less so. The gay pride parade is small, much smaller than in some Eastern European countries where the laws are far less protective. Lots of gay men stay deep in the closet in Portugal. What gay culture there is in Lisbon seems to have been imported by the Brazilians.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Portuguese present themselves as very open-minded but in fact they can be very closed people. They consider all Brazilians to be criminals or whores. And their opinion of the African immigrant population is even worse. I have had taxi drivers make offhand comments to me about people with dark skin that you wouldn't hear in the U.S. unless you travelled in a time machine back to the 1950s.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I enjoyed visiting the cities of Porto and Coimbra, as well as my numerous excursions to Spain.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Bairro Alto and Chiado are two downtown neighborhoods popular with the younger crowd. On the weekend, lots of people go to the beach (but you have to leave the city for the beaches and the drive can be a pain).
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Blue tiles. Cork products.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Lisbon is a lovely old city that is relatively cheap by Western European standards -- although many things are much more expensive than in the U.S. The city itself has lots of old-world charm and the weather is usually pleasant. There are many great getaway spots (in Portugal and Spain) and London, Paris and other EU cities are a short flight away.
11. Can you save money?
No way.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yeah, why not.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
High heels and bicycles. Sidewalks are ancient and Lisbon is very hilly. There are nice places to bike but to get to them you have to go up and down steep hills and avoid drivers who will try to run over you as though you are a piece of paper.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor. The Portuguese are generally nice people (as long as you're not black or Brazilian) but they have some odd character traits. Better just to laugh them off than try to understand them.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
There is an old movie called "Lisbon" that is almost impossible to find on DVD. It's not a great movie, but it was actually filmed in Lisbon in the 1950s. Kind of cool to see how it was then. There's a "movie" (actually a miniseries) called "Mysteries of Lisbon" (from 2010) that is or will be available on DVD in the U.S. and elsewhere. Otherwise, not many movies show off Lisbon. It's not a big destination for moviemakers.
