Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 12/17/13
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my fourth overseas experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home is Virginia, fly out from Dulles, to Tokyo, then Bangkok, overnight in Bangkok and then fly to Kathmandu. It takes more than a day to arrive, you loose a day during travel because of the time difference.
3. How long have you lived here?
Over a year, moved here in July 2012 will leave July 2014.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Work for the U.S. government, Embassy Kathmandu.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing is close to the Embassy and many Americans walk to work within 10-20 minutes if they choose to. Housing is generally nice and large, but doesn't always have large yards or gardens. There is a new townhouse compound for singles and couples that is also very close to the Embassy. There is also an apartment building with spacious flats for smaller families. Most larger families have good sized homes with a bedroom and bathroom for each child. Many of the houses are old and can get cold in the winter, however the Facilities section does a good job fixing and maintaining.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Different varieties of western foods are pricey and hard to find. If there's anything you have to have, particularly liquids, ship it in your consumables. Amazon Prime has been a lifesaver for school snacks, toilet paper, and paper towels. There is a good organic vegetable and fruit market on Saturday mornings where you can also find good cheeses and meats. For the most part, you have to make do with what you can find or have it shipped through the diplomatic pouch.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Lots of shampoo and conditioner, laundry detergent, listerine.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are many decent restaurants where you can eat for cheap, but there are no popular fast food chains except for Baskin Robbins, Pizza Hut and KFC. Once you go to some of the good local restaurants, you won't want Pizza Hut or KFC.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Very few insect problems. We brought mosquito repellant but have rarely used it.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Most people hire maids, cooks, and/or drivers. Good help will cost you about US$125/month per person. Be ready to pay extra for local holidays, anniversary pay, etc.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a few gyms but I haven't been there or priced them. The Embassy has workout facilities for employees and family members. Having your own home gym or creating creative workouts is helpful.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use ATMs here; I usually use the one at the Embassy. I typically don't use my credit card as some people have been scammed. It's easy enough to pay for things in cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
One Catholic church across town. Several non-denominational churches as well.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not too much, you can get by without it.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, there is no accommodation for those with physical disabilities here. Even the new sidewalks can be challenging to someone without a disability.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are generally safe and affordable. You need to haggle with them as they will double the price if you let them. I don't recommend tuk-tuks or the buses- packed with people and very dangerous. There is no other type of public transportation.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4WD vehicles are best. The roads are very bumpy and the streets are narrow. That being said we brought our Honda Odyssey and get it around the city. We don't take it out of the valley, however, we rent a 4WD or borrow someone's for road trips.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but it's not too high speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can get your iPhone unlocked here. The network is OK, but spotty during peak times.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. Some decent vets but no kennels.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many NGOs and charities.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Kathmandu is generally very safe. You do have to pay attention in tourist areas like Thamel - pickpocketing does occur. But, we allow our 17-year old daughter to take taxis with her friends on occasion. On the whole, the Nepalis are kind and helpful to foreigners.
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is very bad. It is dusty and smokey during the Winter months (December-February). If you have asthma or allergies this may not be the place for you. That said, I run outside on a regular basis. I think you get used to it, but it's not fun.
3. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Kathmandu has a great climate. The winter months get cold in the Valley but not unbearably so. Typical mornings in December are around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Embassy housing has A/C units that turn into heaters in the winter so you stay warm. The monsoon season gets hot and muggy but nothing like India's unbearable heat. The rains clear the air and wash away the dust.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Lincoln School is the most popular school for embassy families with school-aged kids. There are also several preschools (Addison Academy and the French School). There is a British School with great facilities. Our children were in elementary, middle and high school here (we have three kids). Our oldest daughter will be graduating from Lincoln in 2014. It is a small, friendly school and we have seen many positive changes in the short time we've been here. The new principal (currently in his second year) recently hired many new teachers who have improved the school academically. They have a great French language program and just started offering Spanish to middle school and high school students. The kids are very friendly and inclusive. There is also a good music and drama program. After school activities keep my 10-year old son busy with karate, drums and breakdancing to name a few. Overall, we've been pleased.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lincoln School has a great sports program that is part of the SAISA network. My daughters were on the swim team and traveled to Mumbai for the SAISA competition. They also offer soccer, basketball, volleyball, tennis, and track. While the sports fees are non-existant, travel to SAISA meets can be pricey (US$600-$800 per kid).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Great expat community. Inclusive and friendly.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, this is a good post for all types of families. The community is open and you can be as social as you would like.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Kathmandu is pretty open to homosexuals.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
None that I'm aware of.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The Nepali people are very friendly and easy going. This is our third posting in South Asia and I find the Nepalis to be wonderful people. We have enjoyed trekking, travelling to Europe on R&R, learning to mountain bike, whitewater rafting and getting out of Kathmandu Valley.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
If you are outdoorsy this is the place for you. It's cheap and easy to hire a guide to go mountain biking, trekking and/or whitewater rafting. Adventures can be tailored to your needs. The Himalayas are amazing. There are lots of nice little restaraunts and some good places to go shopping for pashmina and cashmere shawls, etc. Silver jewelry with gemstones is plentiful at varying qualities and prices. There are also a few good movie theaters with western movies that play for short periods of time.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Pashmina, Cashmere, silver and gemstone jewelry.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money, outdoor experiences - trekking, whitewater rafting, mountain biking. Easy to visit Thailand and Malayasia from here.
9. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That it's on an earthquake fault line, somehow I missed that in the post report.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, we've enjoyed ourselves despite the difficult infrastructure (or lack thereof).
