Nairobi, Kenya Report of what it's like to live there - 01/31/25
Personal Experiences from Nairobi, Kenya
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Multiple previous U.S. Foreign Service tours.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
USA east coast. Two 8 or 9 hour flights, changing in Europe. Long enough that we only went home once a year, but still manageable. We broke it up by stopping in Europe while on R&R.
3. What years did you live here?
2023-present (2025)
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
This is the first post we have been at where the majority of US embassy people are unhappy with their housing. Standalone houses are old and poorly maintained, in my opinion, and markedly less nice than the housing of other diplomats and UN staff. The Grove apartments, in addition to the unending and quality-of-life-impairing maintenance issues, are fishbowl-like and lack privacy, leading to a lot of neighbor disputes and drama. Much of the non-Grove housing is subject to a fair amount of road noise.
However, the Grove and Ridge offer community amenities and more free range opportunities for kids, and the standalone houses usually have big, nice gardens.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Very easy. You can find pretty much anything here if you try hard enough. Locally produced things are cheap and imported things are expensive. There are large chain grocery stores (including Carrefour), small convenience markets, specialty meat, vegetable, and organic shops, and farm delivery services. Produce is not always as fresh as you would find in the US or Europe; however by tradeoff, berries and several other fruits are cheap and available year round.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We bring aerosol toiletries back when we go on R&R. We were happy we brought a vacuum in our air freight, since they are not supplied.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Restaurants are of good quality and variety and often in a beautiful outdoor setting. You do not have to worry about food poisoning and can eat salad, etc. The service is often very slow. The cost tends to be about half of what you would pay in the US, or less.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We've had to have treatment for ants and wasps several times. There are often salamanders scampering across the walls. Occasionally we wake up being bitten by a mosquito (there aren't enough to warrant using nets). A few times we saw a Nairobi fly (which cause skin burns if you touch them) in our house. On Rosslyn Ridge and at some of the free standing housing, monkeys cause some damage and disruption. For Africa, these things didn't feel like a big deal, and seemed like part of the adventure.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO, which takes eight to ten days. Personal pouch is no longer allowed. There is not really a local postal system, but couriers are quick and inexpensive (it's just a few dollars to send a package across the country).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Plentiful, and inexpensive. People at post have housekeepers, nannies, cooks, drivers, gardeners, or staff that perform some combination of these (nanny/housekeeper/cook is a common combination, as is driver/gardener). Quality is variable.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
It is generally safe near our housing, although there have been a few reported incidents of snatching of personal items. The biggest issue is that most areas lack sidewalks and it is not safe from a traffic perspective to walk in the road. You will likely end up driving everywhere or maybe having just one or two places you can walk to. Some areas, like Runda or Nyari, have a lot of sidewalks and/or low traffic volume and are better for leisure walking. Some people bike around town but it depends on your comfort with city riding. It is safe to walk (30 minutes) or bike (10 minutes) to the embassy from the Ridge/Grove housing.
Karura forest (5-10 minutes' drive from most housing, and walkable/bikeable from some) offers a huge, safe, and beautiful place to walk and bike. It’s my “happy place” here.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a very nice gym, and there is a smaller one at Rosslyn Grove, both available to the embassy community without charge. There are local private gyms, yoga studios, crossfit, martial arts, etc. Personal trainers are abundant and inexpensive and will come to your home.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Many businesses accept credit cards (including tap to pay with your phone). The mobile money system, MPESA, works very well and can be used everywhere. I rarely carry cash. Some businesses don't even accept it! ATMs are available and I have not heard of incidents with using them.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Multiple Christian denominations, several mosques, a synagogue.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You do not need it at all. Very occasionally you will run into someone who does not speak English (usually a small child who hasn't learned it yet in school), but it's rare. It's nice to know a few words of Swahili. There is a post language program, and other private tutors. The locals speak probably an equal mix of "Sheng" (like Spanglish but with Swahili instead of Spanish), Swahili, English, and their tribal languages to each other.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Because you will mostly end up driving anyway here, the lack of sidewalks isn't a specific disability issue. The Grove has elevators as do most larger buildings/malls, but it's not consistent.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We are not allowed to take public transportation. There have been some safety and unreliability issues with Uber lately. There are a couple of very reliable private taxi services, and many many drivers for hire either for a one-off ride or for long term. These are relatively inexpensive. It is allowed to take the train from Nairobi to Tsavo and then on to the coast, but it is a long ride.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Electric cars are just starting to appear here and I've only noticed one charger (in a gas station) ever. You will be best served with a right hand drive, 4WD, high clearance SUV. Either diesel or petrol is fine. The roads in Nairobi are surprisingly bad for its state of development otherwise, and there are many speed bumps and potholes along with some dirt roads even in the city, and many poorly maintained tarmac or dirt roads when you are traveling elsewhere in the country. During the rainy season, flooding is an issue both in Nairobi and outside.
We have heard of some people's car parts being stolen when they are parked, and it's common to use locking nuts on hubcaps and locks on spare tires. You don't need to be obsessive about it, but use good sense about where you park your car.
If you are coming with a partner and/or family, it may make sense to have two cars.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is reliable and fast with JTL. Some people complained about Zuku. Your sponsor may install it for you before you arrive. Some people have gotten Starlink as a backup but it’s not really necessary.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Safaricom is the monopoly SIM provider, since they have MPESA. It's quite cheap (I pay less than $10 a month prepaid) and very reliable, including for hotspotting. Don't forget to bring your passport with you when you go to the Safaricom store to get a SIM or to do anything else!
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Lots of competent veterinarians here (some do home visits), and cheap and easy boarding. Vet care is way less expensive here than in the US. No quarantine. It was a hassle to ship our pet here but worked out ok in the end. There is a dog park at Rosslyn Ridge and you can also bring your dog to Karura forest if you get a permit for it.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many spouses have remote jobs or work at the embassy. Some have found work on the economy as teachers, and it's possible to work at the UN, startups, or NGOs. There is a bilateral work agreement but you still have to get a permit to work locally, which I have heard is difficult and slow. Local salaries are likely quite low.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Tons, to include at orphanages, with animals, environmental cleanup or tree planting, etc. Some of these require traveling some distance out of our expat bubble.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Embassy wear varies from fairly informal to suits, depending on the position and department, but in general is not overly formal for Americans. The locals dress quite formally. Even our housekeeper arrives dressed in formal businesswear daily before changing into her work clothes. For expat women outside of work, I've felt comfortable wearing whatever I want in our neighborhood, but probably wouldn't wear shorts outside of it. Anything else is fine though.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
We are constantly getting embassy reminders that Nairobi is a very high crime/terrorism post. There is a lot of security at the housing compounds, embassy, and malls. Al Shabaab occasionally pops up in the news and of course there is the history of the US embassy bombing in 1998, in which many people died. Compared to some other places I have lived, I don't feel threatened on a daily basis. We put the car windows up and lock the doors in crowded areas, don't flash expensive things, etc, but in general I usually feel safer here than in the US. I appreciate that part of that is due to all of the security.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is good, easily accessible, and inexpensive. The local hospital, Agha Khan, can handle fairly complex emergencies. Many people choose to deliver babies here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Buses and matatus spew some pretty toxic looking/smelling exhaust fumes and sometimes you end up stuck behind them in traffic for a while. However, housing and your daily activities are in a very green area, which mostly mitigates this. Some housing has mold problems during the rainy season.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are a variety of restaurants that offer gluten free options, and many products marked as gluten free in stores. I think it might be hard to be here with a dust allergy since it's quite dusty when you get out of Nairobi to drier areas.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No. This post is like the opposite of one that would cause SAD. Workload depends on your specific job, but in general it tends to be more manageable than at some other posts we've been at.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Really perfect. Beautiful sunshine and mid-70s nearly every day. When it rains, it usually happens at night. Last year, the rainy season was unusually heavy and there was some scary flooding (kids couldn't get home from school and people couldn't get out of their houses).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The majority of kids go to ISK, which has an American curriculum. It is about 20 minutes from Ridge/Grove, farther from Runda, and closer to most of the rest of the housing. Some kids go to Rosslyn Academy (a Christian school with an American curriculum that's right next to Rosslyn Ridge), the French school, or to some of the many local British schools (mostly Peponi or Braeburn). There are a couple of special needs focused schools (Woodland Star and School of Nations) that get good reviews from families.
We've had experience with the elementary, middle, and high school at ISK. It is a terrific place - a beautiful campus that looks like an arboretum, indoor-outdoor classrooms, high quality teachers, plentiful extracurriculars, a truly international student population, and a good and stable administration. One complaint would be that the elementary curriculum is much less academic than other schools we have been at. This was not an issue for middle and high school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
ISK has a separate program for high-special needs kids, but the spaces there are limited and we know people who didn't get in. For "regular" special needs, they have a lot of on-site services (OT etc) and staff, and provide IEP-type plans and accommodations. Our elementary child was diagnosed with mild special needs while there and I felt they were very well supported, and that the school staff was on my side and we were all working together. I have heard it is difficult to get dyslexia-specific help, and that the middle school is less accommodating.
School of Nations and Woodland Star are other schools where parents of high-special needs kids have found support.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are several preschools available. Most people with young children also have nannies, and there are various organized play groups. ISK has free afterschool activities for elementary on up and a late bus.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
It's most common to do sports at school, but you can find many sports in the local community. There is a kids' soccer team at Rosslyn Ridge. Kids take tennis lessons at the Ridge and I have heard of local swim, jiu jitsu, karate, badminton, rugby, gymnastics, baseball, and ice hockey classes/leagues for kids. It is inexpensive to have a tutor in whatever sport come to your house. Sports at ISK are well organized and there is opportunity for international competition during high school. Many of the practices in high school and some in middle school are quite early in the morning, before school starts.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Quite large. There are many embassies plus the UN is huge here, and also NGOs, startups, pharmaceuticals, missionaries, and people who just want to live here. General morale tends to be good and I think the amazing weather contributes to that. Morale at the embassy was mixed when we first arrived, but it has changed over and has improved since then.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
This post has been the hardest for me to make social connections outside of the embassy. I think this is partly because our embassy is so big and has so many of its own social events, and also due to living on compound (it's just easiest to hang out with people who are right there). It is a bit of a hassle to get around town, and people live spread apart. However, it's certainly possible to make connections through school, volunteering, religious community, hobbies, etc.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, to all. For families, this is a child-friendly place and it's easy to have help at home. For singles, there's lots to do around town and a vibrant social scene.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
The locals here are genuinely friendly and very pleasant to interact with. It's sometimes hard to form actual friendships though, due to socioeconomic differences. I have heard that people have made local friends through their church.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
We know a few expats who are openly gay and it doesn't seem to be an issue for them, but not many, and it's not as common as we've seen at for example European posts. There's definitely no gay pride parade here.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
In the last election, before we arrived, there was a lot of infighting between tribes. The next election is scheduled for 2027. Nairobi is pretty multicultural and if you go to a restaurant you will see people of varying skin colors (black, white, South Asian) dining there, often mixed together. There still are some remnants of social hierarchy here however - whites on top, then Indian Kenyans, then black Kenyans. There has been a big influx of Muslim refugees and there is some bias towards them. Traditional culture in most (all?) tribes here includes a lack of women's rights and autonomy. This is expressed inconsistently in an urban setting, but is still there in the background. Polygamy still exists in rural areas, as does some FGM.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Being outdoors all the time as the weather is amazing. It's a slower pace of life here but that's not necessarily a bad thing. We have enjoyed active trips with hiking or cycling outside of Nairobi.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Karura forest for walking and biking. Dining out with friends. There aren't a lot of day trips, but there are a few, and you can take longer trips to the Aberdares, national parks, or the beach. Driving places is a hassle (highways are one lane on each side, requiring passing lots of slow trucks, and there are a lot of accidents) but internal flights are inexpensive. Lodging can be very expensive at the national parks for you as a resident, and even more so for your visitors.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Sure. Fabrics, baskets, wood crafts, paintings, etc. Bargaining is a hassle though - vendors often start ridiculously high and it requires a LOT of time and effort to talk them down.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's a good quality of life here. Great weather, nice people, inexpensive, good school and healthcare.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It's harder to get around inside and outside the city than I had expected - road infrastructure is not good or particularly safe. It sometimes makes the calculus for going somewhere not worth it.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, for sure.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter coat.
4. But don't forget your:
camping gear.
