Kingston, Jamaica Report of what it's like to live there - 10/22/24

Personal Experiences from Kingston, Jamaica

Kingston, Jamaica 10/22/24

Background:

1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?

This is our first post as a family abroad but I've lived abroad before.

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2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?

We are from the USA and it's easy to get back, especially the east coast.

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3. What years did you live here?

May 2023-June 2025.

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4. How long have you lived here?

1.5 years.

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5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?

Diplomatic mission

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Housing, Groceries & Food:

1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?

We are US state department and there are a variety of housing options, all gated with guards, all relatively safe. We were first posted to a small gated community that was nice and safe and in a really nice area. The State Department drills safety into you so you may feel scared to walk around, but in most embassy housing, you are safe to walk, especially Cherry Gardens area. We have two young kids ages 3 & 5 and Durie wasn't the best for them. Nice pool, but little safe spaces for them to run/play, and pretty anti-social neighborhood.

We opted to move to Powell plaza, which is incredible for kids and people who want conveniences/amenities (pool, tennis courts, gym, playground/field for kids, etc). The cons are it's more of a commute to AISK school and embassy, but if your kids are K and above, there is a shuttle and there are shuttles to embassy. I teach at AISK so I have to drive and the commute can be rough if you're not a morning person, or if it rains. Most of the housing is nice but people have had some terrible situations that the government is quick to fix.

Neighborhoods are nice if you want to meet more locals and get out of the American bubble. Powell is all American and a lot of events happen there, so if you're social, it's nice to be there. Houses are big. Our apartment is 2.5 bedroom 3 bath and plenty of space for the four of us. Our house was huge, 3 bedroom, 4 bath, living room, dining etc. The houses can get a little run down, nothing is super new here, but most of the neighborhoods are beautiful. Embassy jobs start early to beat traffic. Traffic is mainly bad due to bad planning and infrastructure.

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2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?

Expensive, but mostly because we live in nicer areas so default to convenient grocery stores. You can go to open air markets but everything is still expensive. You can't find everything at one store and there are times when you just can't find certain things. I have two picky eaters so that can be stressful at times. There is a Costco equivalent here called PriceMart, and it's a zoo, but you can find some bulk items, but they are still expensive. Don't go at the end of the month.

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3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?

Liquids since you can't ship them in the pouch. Natural cleaners/ low odor products are hard to find and very expensive.

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4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?

There isn't that much in the way of good foreign food and all the resturants expats go to are super expensive and most of the food is good not great. Get ready to drop over a hundred on a meal for two. I enjoy local Jamaican (Jerk chicken, curry goat, oxtail etc) but it's pretty limited in variety.

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5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?

Ants, nothing too crazy considering it's a tropical place.

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Daily Life:

1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?

Dip pouch. Amazon is two weeks and pretty reliable. Others have had trouble with outside companies shipping to pouch and I don't want the headache, so I stick with the devil I know.

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2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?

Helpers are widely available. Some are housekeepers, some nannys, some hybrids. They are expensive but not compared to the US. Jamaican minimum wage is very low here so diplomats pay above (and should!). 7,000 jmd a day for helper plus nanny is standard. It's a little less if just nanny or just helper. People also pay for cooks 5-7000 a pop. The Jamaican work ethic is different than we are used to. Helpers generally require a lot of detailed instruction and prodding b/c they will generally do the minimum. I don't mind b/c I'm happy to have the help, but it can be frustrating if you are used to a higher standard. It may take you a couple of helpers to find the right fit.

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3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?

Yes, within reason. Government will try to scare you, but most crime here is targeted and foreigners are usually left alone. There are red zones that are posted and obvious, so avoid those areas. I would not recommend biking but there are groups that have organized routes. There are hardly any parks but there are a few garden areas (Hope Gardens) to walk. I run in my neighborhood around Powell and also ran around Cherry Gardens. It's safe. Nothing feels easily accessible here, especially during rush hour. This is a must drive post.

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4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?

Everything is expensive but you can find gyms. Most housing complexes have basic ones, and there are several you can pay for.

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5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?

Yep, but people have had fraud, so check.

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6. What English-language religious services are available locally?

There are a lot of various churches here, especially Christian.

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7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?

None. Patios is fun and it's nice to do the local greeting, but generally everyone speaks English.

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8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?

Yes! Hardly any sidewalks, terrible infrastructure, very rare to find wheelchair accessibility. It would be almost impossible in a wheelchair and very hard for anyone with a physical disability to get around.

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Transportation:

1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?

Diplomats aren't allowed to use public transportation and are limited to a few safe taxi companies. Uber has been reliable and good for me. Other taxis and mini-buses are reckless and don't follow traffic rules.

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2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?

High clearance. Bring a spare set of tires. SUV if you want to do any adventuring or just make it to work. Gas is expensive but it may be hard to find hybrid repair parts, though many have hybrids. I've seen a few electric but I have no idea where people charge them.

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Phone & Internet:

1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?

Yes, but unreliable. Spouses that work from home are often disrupted, but usually not for too long.

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2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?

I would keep local phone service if you can but we have local and it's frustrating but works.

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Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:

1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?

Many spouses telework because we are on east coast time. It seems to work well for them unless internet is a problem. Local salaries are really low and cost of living is high. It is very hard to get a local job and I don't know anyone who does that. I teach at the international school, which I love, but the pay is terrible.

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2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?

Formal.

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Health & Safety:

1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.

No. Kingston has high crime but diplomats are in a bubble. There is crime for sure, but you just have to be reasonable. I also have kids, so we don't go out too much anyway.

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2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?

Medical care is lacking but it's a quick flight to Florida. Most people do major things in the US. Dental is good here.

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3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?

I think it's great. There are a couple weeks a year that the Sahara dust comes, but it's minimal. We spend a lot of time outside and it's fine.

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4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?

People just get antsy and frustrated with the general work ethic/lack of customer service.

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5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?

Hot and humid. "Winter" is slightly less hot and slightly less humid. Hurricane season is June-Oct. There can be torrential rains that quickly flood the streets and stop traffic. Don't drive in rain if you can avoid it. Streets get washed out, pot holes deepen, trees down etc.

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Schools & Children:

1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?

AISK (American International School of Kingston) is great for elementary, middle, and IB. The high school track is lacking due to the size of the school and it's focus on IB. I work there and I think it's an incredible school. Teachers all care a lot about students and the school prioritizes relationships, critical thinking, and the arts. Hillel is the British school and is larger and less expensive. It is also a good school but it is much more focused on rigid academic standards (as are the local schools due to the British colonial influence).

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2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?

AISK has a learning support department that helps students but I've known parents of kids with special needs haven't been satisfied. The academics are higher level, so it is harder for them to keep up, however, they do receive personalized tailored help.

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3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?

AISK has EYP (ages 3 & 4) but it's expensive. There are some good preschool options near AISK (Step by Step 7am-4pm) and Powell (CLC 7:30-3pm). They are affordable and offer good care. Many Jamaican preschools are half day but you can pay extra for after care.

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4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?

Yes, but they are usually hot and chaotic. There is soccer, gymnastics, dance etc. The schools also offer a lot of these as after school activities.

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Expat Life:

1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?

It's close-nit and relatively large. There are interesting people from all over the world and the international schools are a great way to make those connections.

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2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?

The embassies have a variety of activities. Jamaicans also love to throw a good party. There are many social events to attend. There are running/cycling/hiking clubs. There are pick-up soccer games. People tend to stick to their bubbles though. It's more difficult to socialize with local Jamaicans, though they are generally fun.

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3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?

Meh. Nobody really loves it here, though there are things that make the struggle worth it (world class beaches/waterfalls). We love taking the kids to the beach but Kingston isn't super family friendly, nor is it single or couple friendly. There definitely is a big party scene with awesome music and vibes but the dating scene is rough for women.

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4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?

Jamaica has a history of slavery and colonization, so even though locals are accepting of foreigners, and have good relationships with Americans, there is a tension there. Foreigners have historically taken everything for themselves so I just go into every interaction with that in mind. There is a significant Chinese population here and several expat communities here and there but it seems very separated.

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5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?

Nope. It's illegal to be gay here, but there is an underground scene and I know several gay people who make it work, but they can't live openly.

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6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?

Gender gap is a problem. There is misogyny at every level (which is why it's hard for single women). There is racism and classism despite the "one nation" motto. It is more covert though and not super in your face.

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7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?

Incredible beaches (Portland has some of the most beautiful I've seen). I love the Jamaican culture of music and sport and general Jamaican pride. I recommend leaning into the good things despite the daily difficulties to make the time here better.

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8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?

Most things require a taxing drive, except Ocho Rios area. The cove beach is our favorite! Portland beaches are a must see. Negril is fantastic. Treasure Beach area is not as pretty but has an awesome vibe. There are some incredible hidden gems if you're willing to do some crazy narrow, pot-hole, drives up the blue mountains and in Portland area.

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9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?

No.

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10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?

Hm. No advantages other than it's beautiful. Even when you're stuck in traffic, there is something beautiful to look at.

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Words of Wisdom:

1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?

It's really hard to get around and weekend trips will save your sanity. I am so glad we have a reliable newer SUV but I wish it was hybrid to save on gas. You will spend a lot of money b/c convenience is king here and it's easy to get stuck in your bubble.

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2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?

Yes, but only because I love my job and the school is great for the kids. I'd go crazy if I didn't work.

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3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:

Winter clothes. It's never cold, ever, even indoors. Need for things to work well/efficiently.

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4. But don't forget your:

Swim gear, snorkel, bug spray.

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5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?

How to say Babylon.

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6. Do you have any other comments?

Kingston is a tough post, but for everything that is tough there is some cool thing that makes it worth it. It's a grind but beautiful. My kids are happy and love it.

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