Naples, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 09/26/17
Personal Experiences from Naples, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, northern Italy, Bern, Switzerland, Cape Verde.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast. Naples-Munich DC/Boston is the best routing. We usually miss connections though.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse job.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Everyone lives in apartments. There are pros and cons, we have a lovely view but are somewhat isolated. Those in town are close to shops, restaurants etc but suffer parking issues and NOISE. Millions of people live cheek to jowl, it's not always pretty.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Wonderful. We only go to the base for some ethnic food, dog food and cat litter. Local produce and meats, cheese cannot be beat and are much fresher. There are small grocery stores everywhere so shopping is quite easy.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I would say curry pastes, rice noodles etc but we found a fabulous Chinese grocery store. Scratches that itch quite nicely. They even carry poblano peppers and cilantro.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
If you like pizza and pasta you will be fine, it's everywhere and all the same. Craving anything else, not going to happen. This is a bit of a disappointment for us, literally no ethnic food of decent quality. Takeout exists but we have had 50% success, they showed twice, didn't twice. We've found Neapolitan pizza does not deliver well, it's so thin it's cold and soggy upon arrival.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Happily no. The occasional bug is it!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO, notoriously unreliable. Sometimes it takes a month, sometimes a week. December was awful. There is local post but I have not used it.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Lots of people have help, it seems affordable not sure of quality.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The U.S. consulate and military bases have gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We carry both cash and credit cards. ATMs don't always work. Just try another.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not sure. English is not widely spoken in Naples.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I think it would be very difficult without some Italian. Surprisingly, there is very little English spoken in Naples as compared to other European cities. There are language classes available from a number of different sources.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, it would be nearly impossible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Ha, there is nothing safe about getting around here. Cabs are available but beware, they will take advantage. I would not get on a bus.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Small and one you don't mind getting beaten up. Our car has been broken into twice and been in more fender benders than we care to remember. Driving is a risk. there are no rules that are followed. Lights, pedestrian crosswalks, lane indicators - all ignored. If there is a space on the road, someone will fill it regardless of which direction it goes. Chaos doesn't even begin to describe driving here. We have watched people get hit by cars in the pedestrian crossing. People loose their minds when behind the wheel. It is VERY frightening.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it is available and affordable. It takes months to get set up due to government (Italian) requirements.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
WE have Vodafone and it's fine. TIm is another alternative. Italians love their cell phones.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine. There are vets but they do seem fairly rudimentary. I would not be comfortable if my pet needed serious care. Italians do love their pets, unfortunately there are no green spaces for walking them and they do not pick up after them. Side walks are mine fields.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Nothing that I know off. It is a big problem for some.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
If you speak fluent Italian you might have luck with this.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Typical business attire. Italians do dress up a bit more than Americans.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. You do have to be careful. Everywhere.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Happily we have not had any issues but we would definitely use the base if needed.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Summer burn season can wreak havoc on many. We watched Vesuvius burn all summer and had the scratchy sinuses to show for it.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Isolation, stress, boredom. If you are picturing Naples as a well-ordered, charming Italian city, it's not.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot summer, cool winter, nice, if short, spring and fall. As far as climate goes I think it's great. Similar to southeastern U.S.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I think up near the base it is probably better. Down here in Naples, not so much. There is an English community group that advertises promoting speaking English. They get together once a month at a local bar. It's a pretty young crowd.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
This is the least social post we have ever been assigned too. Most locals don't speak English so that's out. The consulate doesn't offer much in the way of socializing or community. This can be a pretty isolating place.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think this would be a lot of fun for a young person who speaks fluent Italian. For families, I suppose it depends, this is not for everyone.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I think it would be fine.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There probably are but we aren't plugged-in enough to see it.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Amalfi Coast, Vesuvius, Pompeii, travel to other European cities. Shopping is pretty sweet too.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
After a year here we are still trying to find things to do. This is not an easy city to navigate. Once you've crossed Vesuvius, Pompeii etc off the list I guess enjoy the view, eat a pizza.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are many great street markets and lots of upscale shops too. I love shopping here.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The ease with which you visit other cities. Even 35 miles from Naples is like a different country. The low-cost airlines make it so easy to travel from Naples to Paris, Venice, Munich, London etc. We have taken advantage of this and have had some fab trips.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The absolute level of chaos in Naples. We were totally not prepared for this.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Naples, no. Florence or Rome, yes. Naples, is crowded, dirty, loud and oh so disorganized. There are people, motorini and cars everywhere, horns are blaring 24/7. People don't talk, they scream. Getting in the car to go anywhere is stressful and once your there parking brings on a whole new nightmare. There is nothing relaxed about Naples. WE go to Rome for the quiet.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Common sense and logic.
4. But don't forget your:
Patience. You will need it.
5. Do you have any other comments?
We were totally not expecting the level of disorganization and lawlessness of this city. It has truly hampered our ability to get out and enjoy it. For that I am sad.
