Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 07/26/10
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No - also lived in Port-au-Prince, Paris and London.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
US - about 11-12 hour direct flight from NY.
3. How long have you lived here?
1.5 yrs.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Apartments in Tel Aviv - about a 20-minute walk from the embassy. Bigger apts in Ramat-Aviv and anywhere from a 20 to 45-minute drive depending on traffic. Houses in Herzliya Pituach to the north - about a 30 to 60-minute drive.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Vegetables and fruits aren't too expensive, and dairy and breads are subsidized by the government. Cleaning supplies and meat/fish are not as good as in the US and are very expensive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cleaning supplies and laundry detergent.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Decent is a stretch. The restaurant scene has gotten much better, but it is very expensive. And of course, many fast-food places are kosher, so they don't open on Saturdays or mix meat and dairy. Thankfully, TA has many non-kosher options available, and cafés are plentiful, even if they all serve the same kind of food.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None that I can see, except for fleas from the street cats.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Third-country nationals are available, usually for about $10/hr.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Israelis love to work out. Lots of gyms and outdoor gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely used. There are a lot of ATMs, but bank fees here are so expensive that most people use credit or debit cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, although the nearest Catholic church is in Jaffa. No churches or mosques in TA proper.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes - but very expensive. Cable is about $90/month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
More than you would think. Every Israeli learns English in school, but many refuse to speak it or are shy about it. Street signs are legally required to be in English, Arabic and Hebrew, but pretty much every other sign is in Hebrew only. There are English newspapers, but the news they report is often quite different than the Hebrew version of the same paper.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot - most buildings are not handicapped-accessible and Israelis regularly park in handicapped spots, even though they don't have permits. Nice.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We can't take local buses, but taxis are cheap unless the driver is trying to cheat you (which they will do unless you insist on the "monay" or meter). Sheruts (shared taxis) are plentiful, but they only run on certain routes.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Think small. Parking is tough to find. The roads are in very good shape, so a 4X4 isn't necessary.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes - again, not cheap but available and works well. You need high-speed service, usually from the cable company, and a separate service for an ISP.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one. Israelis live and die by their cellphones and iPhones. Roaming charges to the US are incredibly expensive.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Vets are great, and there are lots of options for kennels.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It's very difficult to find a job outside the embassy, and there is a lot of hostility towards "foreign" workers, thanks to the religious right which controls the Interior Ministry and blames them/us for the entry and spread of diseases and the corruption of Jewish Israel, among other things.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Very casual and unkempt. What can you say about a society where the website of their government specifies what color Crocs are ok to wear at work?
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not at all - you get used to clearing security to do your grocery shopping, etc.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is usually pretty good and affordable.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fine - a lot of allergens in the air from plants, though.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Humid in the summers, but warm all year around and little rain. Think Miami.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American International School in Netanya, about an hour or more from TA. It has a good reputation, but there is a lot of infighting among the parents.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lots - especially soccer.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge if you include those who make aliya.
2. Morale among expats:
It's not easy living here, and it is very hard to fit in if you are not Jewish. Israelis are as hostile, stubborn and argumentative as you have heard, and it gets exhausting on a daily basis. You can't even buy groceries without someone trying to run you over with a shopping cart and starting a fight.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Restaurants, bars, lots of cafés right on the beach. Israelis are not big drinkers, so good luck finding a decently-mixed cocktail, but beer and wine are plentiful and often good.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
From that standpoint, it's not bad for anyone. Families have their place, and singles do, as well, although b/c of the living conditions, this is a family posting.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Very good - TA is very open and accepting compared to other parts of Israel.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Very much - as a person of color, I have been called the n-word repeatedly by Israelis (in English and Hebrew), spat upon, followed down the street and shouted at, etc. In my building people think I'm the maid, and at work, people have demanded to speak to "an American" when they see me. It's a horrible, racist environment. And don't even try not being Jewish. They hate Gentiles here. Diplomats here have had rocks thrown at them for "violating" the Sabbath.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Getting out - Israel is a very easy country to travel.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Jaffa is lovely - very charming. Wines are big, as is hiking. Everything is usually within driving distance.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Bedouin and Palestinian handicrafts, jewelry.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The beach, when it's clean and not crowded, is lovely.
11. Can you save money?
I've been able to. There really isn't much to buy locally, other than day-to-day items. My money goes for travelling, esp. to Turkey (2-hr direct flight), Cyprus (1 hr), Jordan (3-hr drive) and Egypt (2-hr flight to Cairo).
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Hell, no!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
sweaters and coats.
3. But don't forget your:
bathing suit.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
You Don't Mess with the Zohan. Seriously. It's a documentary.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Bible. It is pretty cool to read about Moutn Gilboa and realize that you can drive there in about 45 minutes or less.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Never, never forget that Israel is first and foremost a Middle Eastern country. It is not New York. Many people come here and make that mistake and end up disappointed and upset.
