Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 04/20/21
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First post as FSO/EFM, have lived previously in Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
12 hour direct flight to New York area. 14 hours direct to DC. 15 to SFO.
3. What years did you live here?
2019-current.
4. How long have you lived here?
A year and a half.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Lots of different options which all have pros and cons. Many young couples or people with young kids live a few blocks from the EBO and right on the ocean but it is an older building that seems to be right above a sewage line... some of the apartments there are great with huge balconies, some are small with no balconies. The streets around it are usually filled with homeless people and drunks, and it's a bit of a walk from the nicer parts of town and the market, but then again you are on the Mediterranean Ocean. There are at least four other apartment complexes in Tel Aviv proper where government employees live: one has nice, newer apartments that are usually more spacious than housing closer to the EBO, but most don't have balconies (senior Foreign Service people live in the taller tower, which has amazing, massive apartments). It’s in a great neighborhood and close to the Carmel Market; about a 15 minute walk from the EBO. The next is a bit further from the EBO (20-25 minute walk, there is a shuttle) with newer apartments that aren't huge but have great balconies and awesome views of the city. Located above a new, hip market with tons of parks and playgrounds surrounding it. A few people live in Ramat Aviv, which is pleasant but boring and I wouldn't recommend it if you're looking for city living. Most families live in nice sized houses with yards in Herzliya or Kiryat Ye'arim, which are closer to the school. Traffic within the Tel Aviv area is terrible and there is limited parking at the EBO so most people take the shuttle. There is very little social interaction between the people who live in the cities and the "suburbs."
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find most American grocery staples in Israel, and there are specific stores that import items for the American contingent (cake/brownie mix, Mexican food, candy, sodas). One item you won't find much in Israel is flavored canned seltzer (La Croix, Bubly, or the alcoholic stuff like White Claw). You can find regular seltzer easily but most flavored Schweppes has sugar in it and is usually found in big 2L type bottles. There is also a lack of frozen ready made meals (think Trader Joes) which is a bit of an adjustment coming from the States. The beer selection in Israel is also lackluster. You can find pork but only at certain spots and it's hard to find bacon that isn't cured and mediocre.
You can find ways to eat cheaply here, especially if you buy all your produce at the markets, but buying groceries (or anything, really)from grocery stores (Tiv Tam, Hezi Hinam are the most common American style grocery stores) or convenience stores (AM:PM is everywhere, think CVS with more groceries) is super expensive. Tiv Tam and AM:PM are great options because they're open late and on Shabbat, but it's easy to leave both places spending $100 on just a few items.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Most items are available... if you have an affinity for certain types of junk food or chips (they don't have the "regular" styles of Doritos here) then go ahead and ship those but nothing essential. A lot of the items on the CLO "hard to find in Israel list" like black beans or cake mix are everywhere.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Amazing food city and you can find pretty much anything you want. Wolt is the go-to delivery app (think Seamless) and works well and is quick but it is hard to get a meal for two without spending $50.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
No.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO/Pouch. Amazon orders usually only take 5-10 days.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available, and like everything else, expensive.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Most apartment complexes have gyms on-site. There is a rec center in Herzliya. There are a ton of outdoor gyms located around the city, in parks and on the beach boardwalk. This is a very active city.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No issues with any of this. Almost everywhere accepts cards.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The honest answer is that you don't "need" Hebrew for 99% of your interactions in Tel Aviv. Almost everyone speaks English, especially the younger people and locals aren't offended when you use it. I think taking some classes, whether through FSI or online, would be helpful for reading (having at least some reading has been super helpful as plenty of Hebrew words are taken from English) and knowing the basic pleasantries is nice, but a native English speaker could come here with absolutely zero Hebrew and get by just fine.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not particularly. Tel Aviv is a mostly flat and walkable city, with plenty of wide pedestrian walkways.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
yes
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If you are just using a car for commuting around the city I'd recommend something you wouldn't mind getting a few bumps and scrapes on (moped drivers are crazy and a lot of the street parking is tight). If you're an outdoorsy type I'd recommend something with 4-wheel drive as some of the parks and desert driving is a bit bumpy and unpaved.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. We had it installed before we arrived. Haven't had any issues.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local plans are cheap and readily available. Google Fi also works well if you want to keep your American phone number, just costs a bit more.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Have not used them but both are readily available. This is a VERY dog-friendly country, and there are about a million stray cats everywhere that are well taken care of by the locals. Animals don't need to be quarantined but the paperwork and rabies titer test required can be a bit of a burden and expensive. There is a 99% chance that when you arrive customs will not even look at this paperwork or glance at your animals (this was our experience bringing in cats). If you are thinking of getting a cat, I'd wait until you get here as there is certainly not a shortage of strays to adopt.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Good number of jobs available at post for EFMs. Several also work on the local economy, some without any Hebrew. Both full-time and part-time jobs available at the EBO. Local salaries tend to be a bit lower than American standards.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Almost no one wears formal attire here and seeing someone in a tie is a rare occurrence. Work attire at the EBO is semi-casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is an incredibly safe country with very low levels of petty crime. Your friends are family will probably hear about Israel/Iran/Gaza conflicts on the news and worry, but in day-to-day life you do not feel that tension whatsoever. Most apartments have "bomb shelters" in one of your rooms or closets, while some buildings have communal shelters. I have not felt unsafe for one second in our time in Israel.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No. Excellent medical care locally.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good. Occasional dust storms a few times a year that can make the city a bit hazy. Have experienced some minor allergy symptoms given that there are tons of different plants and flowers here than we are used to but overall you'll have clear blue skies most of the year.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Besides the typical feelings of homesickness that will exist at all posts, I know some people feel a bit worn out from dealing with locals on a constant basis (some can be a bit blunt and unfriendly and driving in Israel can be exhausting).
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Extremely pleasant. Think San Diego. From April to November it is sunny and rarely dips below 70 degrees, late June/July/August are hot and humid but if you're from the East Coast it doesn't feel like much of an adjustment. November and December are mild with a bit of rain, January-March it might dip into the 50s (colder in Jerusalem) and occasionally rainy and gray but you can leave your heavy winter coats at home unless you plan on traveling to Europe or somewhere colder. One thing no one told us is that the winter storms can be pretty intense. Strong winds, roads easily flood. These rarely if ever last for more than a few hours, but don't be surprised when you're at home on a January night and you feel 30 mph winds banging against your windows. All that said, if you like the sun and warm weather then you will be very happy here.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are a TON of American expats here who have done Aliyah (plenty of American Jews move here for religious purposes, but there are a ton of secular expats as well). The Embassy community is also quite large, though a bit spread out. Morale is mostly good besides the aforementioned "fatigue" with dealing with local curtness.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We are lucky to have some local friends which has helped us build a social circle outside of the Embassy. There is a decent amount of co-mingling and social events between diplomats who live in Tel Aviv, but the distance between Tel Aviv and Herzliya tends to limit interactions between families and younger/childless couples. The distance between the apartment complexes is also a surprisingly limiting factor for socializing.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes to all of the above.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
My perception is skewed because we had local friends who lived here before we moved here and we have expanded our social circle via them. Though I mentioned that some Israelis can be a bit curt, this is also a very friendly city and I can't imagine it would be hard to make friends with locals if you made an effort.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. Tel Aviv is known as one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Though I have not experienced this personally, I work with some people from various minority groups who have experienced some racial discrimination (this is a very "white" city, and there are definitely some racial issues/biases among older Israelis towards people of color and Arab/Ethiopian Israelis). Tel Aviv is definitely a more "progessive" and open city than the rest of the country so I can't speak for people who live in different parts of the country.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Quality of life is high here. I love taking walks around our neighborhood and strolling Rothschild Blvd and going to the beach and sitting at a cafe and finding the best hummus/pitas/falafel and going to concerts and biking around the city. It's such a small country that taking day trips or weekend trips to wineries/hikes/historical sites is really easy and you can find yourself walking among amazing ruins just by driving 30 minutes outside of the city. Jerusalem is also a quick drive, depending on traffic. There are some truly amazing parks and hikes in this country; the pools and waterfalls around Ein Gedi are a must; a sunrise hike up Masada is a must; visiting the Golan Heights is a must; splurging for a weekend at the Beresheet Hotel in Mitzpe Ramon is a must. Since most of our time here has been in COVID times with limited options to travel abroad, we've been able to explore most of the country quite easily. This country is a dream for foodies and people who like to spend time outside.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
As mentioned above, this is an extremely walkable city with many great cafes and restaurants and almost all have outdoor seating. The city beaches are great and relatively clean with surprisingly good beach cafes and bars (more secluded and interesting beaches are a short drive away, check out Aqueduct Beach and Tel Dor). It's also a much greener city than I ever expected, with beautiful large trees and flowers lining almost every street. Hidden gems are too many to list here, but in general I think long walks around Neve Tzedek and Jaffa never get old.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
For electronics/household goods, no. Jerusalem and Bethlehem and Nazareth are much better for handicrafts/antiques/rugs than Tel Aviv.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Mostly covered in previous answers but the weather, street food, cafes, restaurants, quality of life, attractive people, active lifestyle, beaches, nightlife... Tel Aviv does all of these things very well. We haven't been able to take advantage but in normal times, trips to Greece or Cyprus are easy and affordable, as is most of European travel. The recently established relationship with the UAE has also opened up even more affordable travel opportunities, when we're not in a global pandemic. Outdoor activities and quick visits to historical sites are plentiful.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It is a VERY expensive country. A few things like produce and street food are affordable but basically everything else is more expensive than it should be. It's more expensive than DC and I think on par with New York. Maybe one of the most expensive places in the world besides Switzerland. If you're looking to go to a post where you can save money, this is not the place.
Another thing never mentioned is how many transactions in this country require a "teudat zehut," or an Israeli ID number. There are several online transactions and even some gas stations that require this number, and our diplomat visa numbers do not work. Only on occasion has this been anything other than a minor inconvenience, but it is something worth knowing about.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
In a heartbeat.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Fancy cars, winter coats, and formal business attire.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, sandals and summer clothes.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Seven Good Years by Etgar Keret
Sababa (cookbook) by Adeena Sussman
6. Do you have any other comments?
Tel Aviv is an awesome city and it will be hard to leave.
