Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 08/02/13
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, Taipei, Buenos Aires, and Shenyang China.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC, Newark, Tel Aviv, about 16 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Mostly apartments, very, very small, with no closets. We somehow managed to fit our king-size bed but you literally open the door, and walk into the bed. Most have balconies or patios. Some people who live further away get bigger houses with patios or balconies. Commute depends on where you live, but during rush hour it can go between 25 to 45 minutes to get to downtown.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find almost anything here, but again, expect to pay 2 or 3 times more. A box of Barilla pasta costs between US$4 to 5. Fresh produce can be good quality but there's not so much variety. The fruits in season are very very good and you can find amazing pomegranates. One thing you have to be aware of is that last year there was some information released to the Consulate community about Israel's pesticide use being one of the highest in Western countries with pesticides that are banned in Europe. See report here:
http://www.haaretz.com/news/national/green-group-says-105-pesticides-taint-israeli-fruit-and-vegetables-1.475432
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Children's food, clothes, favorite snacks, etc. You can always order on Amazon if you need them but again, there's almost everything but expensive and sometimes local brands do not taste the same, like for example tomato sauce.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC in Bethlehem and Ramallah, McDonald's, Dominos pizza, other local chains. There are nice high-end restaurants with good food, mostly local cuisine some French and Italian. Forget about Asian and Mexican. Everything is expensive here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants are everywhere!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The fastest DPO ever.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Between US$10 to 20 an hour. People sometimes bring domestic help from third countries.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but very expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Not really a problem, unless you go to the fresh produce market or small stores.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, English at least for Christians.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes for newspaper. Cable I've heard only shows programs 3 year old programs.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Tons. A lot of cobblestone, construction going on, roads blocked by cars just parked on the sidewalk, crazy fast drivers who don't really look. A lot of stairs and definitely not a lof ot ramps.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We are not allowed to ride on local buses, the light rail is pretty good and taxis are pretty reasonable and for the most part safe. Make sure they turn the meter on though before you go.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Small or one you don't worry about getting a little damaged.There are limitations on what cars you can bring in.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, quite expensive but pretty good.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We get one through work so I can't really tell.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Teaching I think. There are a few jobs within the Consulate but nothing too exciting.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Pretty casual. People here are stuck in the 80s.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I've never felt unsafe and have never heard of petty crimes. There were a few burglars on expats' housings, people climbing onto 2nd floor apartments when people are away or asleep. Most of the concerns are on a bigger scale, like missile and bombs threats. All housing has a built-in bomb shelter somewhere. We are not allowed to travel to the West Bank (except Bethlehem and Jericho, sometimes) unless it's for official purposes and only in armored vehicles.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is good and available.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally good, but there are dust and sand storms which has caused more than one of us to have sinus infections.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very hot and dry during the day and breezy at night most year round. Winter can get a bit cold but never too bad. Always dry though. A lot of people (locals and expats) seem to have all sorts of allergies.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several options and all seem to be very good, like the Anglican school and Alliance Francaise.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Forget about U.S. standards of cleanliness which you'll not find here. The YMCA offers a pretty good curriculum including swimming, art and music for toddlers but only in Hebrew and Arabic. Expensive though.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, at school and at the YMCA or there are other local clubs, but again, very expensive.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big.
2. Morale among expats:
I'd say OK. The constant tension wears on you after a while. People are very rude and pushy here, it's the "Me first" rule, so that can get tiring. The way to do this without going insane is get out of Jerusalem on the weekends and travel as much as you can outside the country.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Nothing too exciting. I've never really seen many new released movies coming this way, there are a bunch of outdoor activities, concerts and such but all in Hebrew. Nightlife opportunities are pretty slim, except for a bunch of bars and clubs. Again Tel Aviv is close by.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Definitely good for families. There are tons of playgrounds and green spaces everywhere, tons of day trips, etc. Singles find it a bit harder specially to date because of religious barriers. A lot drive to Tel Aviv on the weekend since it's only 45 minutes away.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
You definitely do not see them in the open, it's a rather conservative and religious place, with tons of pilgrims and religious tourism but I know there's some. Again, Tel Aviv is very close.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
BINGO! Tension, tension tension is ever present in the air. As one of my LES colleagues put it: "people here are too busy hating each other and being angry". You have the 3 major monotheist religious groups here but there are divisions among each one of them too. Then you have Israeli Jews, Israeli Arabs, Palestinians from the West Bank, Gaza, Armenians, Russians, Ethiopian Jews and Christians, etc, etc, etc all living in close quarters, fighting over who gets what land and who gets the what holy site for each religion, etc. It is fascinating and draining at the same time.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting all those places you read about in the Bible, history books, etc. This might be the only place you'll find a church on one side, the holocaust center on the other and nestled in between a Muslim cementery all within steps of each other.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Visiting, sightseeing within Jerusalem, Israel, and the surrounding countries. The beach and the desert are only an hour away from each other.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Olive wood products in Bethlehem, some beautiful jewelry and furniture. Amazing Palestinian and Armenian pottery.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's Jerusalem, tons of places to visit, rich in history and culture, a very interesting and unique place. There's always somewhere to go and since it's relatively small, you can do daytrips pretty much all over the place. It's also easy to fly to various destinations in Europe, Middle East and North Africa.
11. Can you save money?
Some.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Thought that you are coming to the Holy city. This is as unholy as it can get. People here are racist, intolerant and angry. All the "religious" people are hating people from other "religions."
3. But don't forget your:
Patience.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Jerusalem: Chronicles from the Holy City by Guy Delisle and Helge Dascher.
Jerusalem: The Biography by Simon Sebag Montefiore.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Living in the face of constant tension and seeing injustice everyday is tiring. Even our colleagues who live in Tel Aviv, 45 minutes away cannot understand what life is like for some Palestinians under occupation and discrimination.
