Baghdad, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 02/26/14
Personal Experiences from Baghdad, Iraq
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I've lived in Nigeria and Western Europe before my foray into Iraq.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is Midwestern U.S. - Trip usually took about two days to get out, three days to get back with a mandated overnight in Amman.
3. How long have you lived here?
Lived there for 2 years from 2011-2013.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Worked at the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
SDAs, or staff diplomatic apartments, are where most embassy personnel live, usually with a roommate. Apartments were made for one person, but house two (up to four if you are short term!). There is also the "East End" which houses most of the contractor personnel.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are a few options at the small stores on compound but you would do better to ship non-perishables in your small consumables shipment.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
A cookie sheet - the ones they give you are too big to fit in the oven!
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a few places on compound to get food but not a great selection. You can eat healthy at the DFAC, but you have to work at it. Having ice cream every night won't help!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Never had any issues with insects.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO - usually slow, but eventually it'll get there - if it's not too big. Some people take advantage of the DPO and send inordinate amounts of things to themselves - someone I worked with said she had shipped about 250 lbs of flour at once to herself through the DPO. Insane - that holds up everyone else's mail to make room for flour.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There is none - you (and your roommate) are on your own!
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The two gyms on compound are fairly well equipped and free. If you can't find time to work out here, you're just making excuses.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can get U.S. cash at the cash machine which is often out of money - then use it to pay for things at the store or buy things at Baghdaddy's.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Daily living? None. But it helps to be friendly with the local staff.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It's not high speed, and it's very expensive. But it's better than nothing.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You get your Embassy-provided cell, which works for the most part. But there are also landlines in each apartment which have U.S. phone numbers that friends and family can call.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
You can volunteer for many things - running karaoke, teaching a class in whatever you're good at, sorting books, gardening, putting on a play, mass casualty exercises, etc...
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual to business professional to jeans…it all depends on what section you work in!
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, about a million. The Embassy gives us a false sense of security but restrictions are very high.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The medical care is actually fairly decent on compound. They have an x-ray machine and can do minor procedures there. Anything more serious you'll go to the airport hospital or out of country.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality varies, but can be very unhealthy at times. I looked out my window one day and the air was ORANGE.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Gets hot in the summer, and cool in the winter. I've likened it to the weather in Las Vegas.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No kids allowed!
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large, and morale is okay for those who try.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Game nights, karaoke, dancing, talent shows, plays.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I'd say it's an okay place for couples since both are working (you can't come if you don't have a job). It can be okay for singles as well but it's still not easy to figure out the good ones from the bad ones...
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The compound is fine for GLBT, the city less so...but since you won't really be going out in the city, it's not a big deal.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Getting in shape at the gym? Not much to see in this country club prison/embassy.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Well, there's dancing, karaoke, fun runs, and other things to do if you make an effort to get out there ('there' being the compound). Making friends with other countries' compounds make for some nice nights to relieve the boredom of compound living.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
I really didn't buy much in Baghdad - some Embassy logo items from the employee association store.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money! It's very easy to save money on compound when you don't have to pay for much.
9. Can you save money?
Definitely!
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Just how monotonous it can become after awhile.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I'd still go there - I made some good friends and some good money. :-)
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter boots, most of your stuff, high speed dreams...
4. But don't forget your:
eBooks, DVDs, games, and workout gear!
