Baghdad, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 01/09/13
Personal Experiences from Baghdad, Iraq
Background:
1. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I haven't been home since I got to Baghdad, but it would depend on how you went. The trip out is fairly easy-- either you can take Embassy Air at zero-dark-thirty to Amman (2 hours) and then one of the Royal Jordanian flights direct back to the States. I think the most popular one is Chicago, and it's 11-12 hours. On the way back, you could fly direct to Amman, or to Amman through Vienna or Frankfurt, but because of the Embassy Air schedule, any route through Amman will require that you spend the night in Amman. The Embassy Air flight leaves in the morning, then with all the waiting around at BIAP, you're back on compound by mid-afternoon. The trip back in is really annoying. There are more possibilities for flying commercial opening up. I believe it's pretty much the same story, though - going out is okay, coming back in requires an overnight layover somewhere.
2. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
(The contributor is affiliated with the U.S. Embassy and has been living in Baghdad for eight months, a second expat experience.)
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The commute is the other highlight of life in Baghdad. A 5 -minute walk, tops, from your housing to your office. Housing is mostly shared apartments for FSOs (tandems and 1s and above get their own place); hooches and windowless rooms for contractors.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get things super cheap at the PX (as long as it stays open, there's noise about closing it since the military is long gone), only don't expect to do much actual grocery shopping here. All you can get, food-wise, is frozen junk food, cake mixes, noodle cups, and more varieties of beef jerky than you knew existed (ditto protein powder). And a lot of meats for barbecuing. The selection of toiletries/cleaning products is not bad, though. There's also a small local grocery on the compound where you can get more normal "ingredients" (vs. just heat-and-eat), dairy, and produce.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Ship yourself spices if you intend to cook, and any ingredients you're fond of because you're almost guaranteed not to find them here. Otherwise, ship whatever you think you need to keep yourself sane for a year.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
DFAC and the Grab 'n Go are still serving you delicious, free, government institution meals. There's also Tarboosh (local fast food, decent), PJ's Pizza (dubious Middle Eastern pizza), and Green Bean Coffee (military Starbucks) for a little variety. I'm not sure how much longer it'll be open, but right now you can still walk over to Union 3, where they have North End Pizza, which is legitimately good thin crust.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Flies in the fall/winter. I think in the summer it's too hot for bugs. In warmer weather there are tiny lizards everywhere... they're kind of cute, actually.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. Sometimes really fast, sometimes painfully slow. There's a post office on the compound.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Free, 'cause you're gonna do it yourself.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Nothing but gyms here. If you can't get in shape while you're serving in Baghdad, you can't do it anywhere. There are two gyms, one with more cardio, one with more weights. Very nice indoor and outdoor pools. A lot of variety in exercise classes.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
On the compound, sure, knock yourself out. Off compound, probably not, but you're not going to be doing a lot of shopping off compound, anyway.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Plenty of services on compound, of all stripes.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
AFN + some Middle Eastern/Gulf satellite deal is still provided free. Seem to be a lot of movie options. If people get papers, they get them on their Kindles or iPads.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Learn the basic greetings and pleasantries in Arabic if you'll be meeting with Iraqis, otherwise none.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
On the compound, none. In the city, myriad.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Um, no. Although there are taxis zipping through the IZ all the time.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Just bring yourself. Motorpool and RSO will do the rest.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet, yes. High-speed, no. You can choose between three speeds; the top one is $300/month, the middle is about $100/month. Even at the top speed, it takes about 4 hours to download a half hour TV show. It is not speedy. It's usually fine for Skype, though.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy will give you a cellphone, and also maybe a BlackBerry. The BlackBerries don't work as phones, so you'll have to have both.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
You're not bringing pets here. Maybe adopt a lizard?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
The only "pets" here are the bomb-sniffing dogs (which you're only allowed to pet at designated events) and the feral cats that live in one of the bunkers out by the outdoor pool. I did hear of a development implementer managing to get a vet to come spay a cat on a conference room table...
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
EFM jobs on compound... otherwise...
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work, the same as any at Embassy/USAID Mission. In public, for men it's the same. Women: Iraq is not as conservative about dressing as some other Middle Eastern/Muslim countries, but don't wear your V-necks out to meetings with Iraqis.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Many. The embassy compound hasn't had any indirect fire since I've been here, but it's still Iraq. Very restricted movement is still the norm here. Even in Erbil, you'll have a PSD with you wherever you go. In Baghdad, forget getting out of the IZ unless it's "Mission Critical".
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
If you can avoid getting shot at or car-bombed, the only real health concern is the dust. The Health Unit is well equipped to handle minor things, anything else gets you a trip to the hospital at BIAP, and then probably medevac'd.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I find the air quality to be actually fine, except for the occasional dust storm. The dust actually hasn't been so bad since I've been here: maybe 3-4 really dusty days. If you're sensitive to that kind of thing, though, being here might be tough.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot in the summers. Relentlessly hot and sunny. It will be between 110-120 degrees all day, every day, all summer, from May through the end of September. Nothing but sun, not a cloud in the sky. It's oppressively, oppressively hot here in summers. Do not take this lightly. October and November are lovely, and winter is chilly and rainy, where chilly = highs in the low 60s.
Schools & Children:
1. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Obviously not for kids, but there's lots of 5ks, 10ks, triathlons, etc. on the compound to keep us entertained.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Around 13,000 currently on the US compound, although that's coming down fast. Within the IZ there's also UNAMI, the Brits, Australians, Italians, and Dutch. All of the embassies (except US) occasionally have happy hours, holiday parties, quiz nights, etc., and it's pretty easy to go.
2. Morale among expats:
Crashing now due to glide path anxieties, but will probably come up again once that's done. To a point.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of clubs, Baghdaddy's, the gym, the corniche, the pool... you can always go to DoJo's at the UNAMI compound or the al-Rasheed hotel to get out for dinner, if you can get Motorpool to take you.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
There are no kids here, obviously. I think couples have an okay time because they get their own apartment and life is fairly "normal". Having a roommate has been the hardest part of being here for me -- it's a drag.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
On the compound, sure, it's fine.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not on the compound. I've found some Iraqis interested in discussing religion with Westerners, but haven't encountered any prejudice. I have definitely met some male Iraqi counterparts who will barely look at me, a relatively uncovered woman, in meetings. Oh well.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Highlights have mainly been the sweet taste of freedom you get immediately upon landing in a country that is not Iraq when you go on R&R/RRB. And trips out to Erbil --- although forewarned is forearmed: the housing at the consulate there is TERRIBLE.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Baghdaddy's... and the gym... and barbecues at the pool/on the corniche when the weather's nice enough... and the gym...
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Right now you can go buy tons of crap (and a few nice rugs) at Union 3. If they shut that down, I don't know what. Whatever you can get your LES to buy you on the outside, I guess.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Advantages are the money and close camaraderie with your colleagues if there's a good group of people. You can wrangle a trip to the Citadel up in Erbil; otherwise there's no sightseeing at all.
11. Can you save money?
You can't do anything *but* save money here, unless online shopping is your coping mechanism.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Sure. It hasn't been terrible, really. There's a good group of people here, the work is interesting, and there's always R&Rs. The glide path has destroyed morale for now, but I'm sure that once the embassy is right-sized, morale will be better.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
pets, children, family, and any ideas that you're going to get to see even a smidge of the "real Iraq" (outside of Kurdistan).
3. But don't forget your:
sunscreen, hat, swimsuits, shorts, idea that you have to hydrate constantly in summer, e-Reader (actual books eat too much of your UAB), hard drive full of movies and TV shows to keep yourself entertained. Also, bring (or plan to send) sweaters and a warm jacket for winter. It does get chilly, and in Kurdistan it gets actually cold.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
You could always watch Battle For Haditha
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
They'll give you all the reading you need at FSI.
6. Do you have any other comments?
If you need a high-threat post, this isn't the worst you can do.
