New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 07/07/20
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I've also lived in East Africa, SE Asia, and former Soviet Union.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
United States East Coast. 13 hr direct flight from Delhi to New York, or various connections through Europe.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic Mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Single family homes are rare for working-stiff expats, so expect to live in an apartment without any green space. You might have access to a small balcony or a rooftop patio. Most expats live in middle- or upper-class neighborhoods, so housing size is adequate in my opinion. But construction standards in India aren’t high and absentee landlords are common, so don’t be surprised to discover hidden problems behind the decent façade.
I’ve been very happy with my 3-bedroom, 3-bathroom apartment, with an open dining/living room layout. I have a responsive landlord and haven’t had any major problems. I live in Defence Colony and like the neighborhood and the location. I can generally get most places within 30 minutes, unless I’m heading to the airport, farmhouse area, or Gurgaon or hit the height of rush-hour traffic.
Delhi is a massive city, so expats are spread out amongst various neighborhoods and suburbs of Delhi. Commutes can vary widely.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
A major complaint from expats is that you generally can’t one-stop-shop anywhere. While I think you can generally find most things you’re looking for, you’ll have to decide how much driving around is worth whatever specialty item you desire. Also, price goes up for less-common items. I spent $10 on a package of Mint Oreos recently – probably not worth it, but my mouth said otherwise at the time! Basic groceries and household items are inexpensive, especially if you’re willing to buy local options. But if you crave brand-name, import items, then it ain’t gonna be cheap! My housekeeper does most of my grocery shopping, buys local, and spends 1900 INR every 2 weeks.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I always recommend expats bring preferred cosmetics/toiletries/personal care products to any post they go to, because local availability is rarely guaranteed. Same for favorite non-perishable foods.
It does actually get cool in the winter, with temperatures going down to 10C/50F. So be sure to bring appropriate clothes for those 2-3 winter months.
The quality of plastic ware is pathetic in my opinion. I’ve broken many a locally-made plastic fork and spoon. If you expect to host meals and don’t want to dirty your silverware, bring plenty of plasticware with you. Otherwise plan on buying lots of the local stuff to account for breakage.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Before COVID, Delhi had a bajillion restaurants, ranging widely in quality, cost, and cuisine. Many are still shuttered. Delivery services are widely available, even before COVID. Zomato and Swiggy are the most popular.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nope. Just need to be aware of ants from time to time. And I found the largest cockroach ever in my toilet once!
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Most everyone hires at least a part-time housekeeper. Those with enough balcony/rooftop or even actual garden space hire a gardener. Families often have a driver and nanny. Salaries and duties can vary significantly, but ballpark budget is 15000 INR per month for each full-time helper.
With COVID, there is a dearth of expats and a bounty of employees. You will have your pick of staff to hire and salaries may have gone down.
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I see lots of signs for gyms, but haven’t joined any.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I personally operate on a cash-basis only. I would say that ATMs are widely available, although it’s debatable if they’ll work. ATMs and credit cards are as safe as those in the United Sates. There are often lots of problems with the acceptance of international credit cards, so be prepared with a back-up payment option.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I always think learning the local language is helpful, and much appreciated by Indians. I have a Hindi language tutor twice a week, and the language is useful in taxis, markets, restaurants, when traveling, etc. because you will definitely encounter people, especially taxi drivers, who don't speak English. However, many expats never learn any local language and get around perfectly well.
5. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Think twice before coming. I honestly don’t know how someone with disabilities could get around at all. Sidewalk ramps are non-existent. Sidewalk and road surfaces are uneven.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Metro is ridiculously cheap and runs regularly - I've never had to wait more than 5 minutes for a train. As a woman, I always choose to ride in the women-only car. The bigger issue with using metro as a regular mode of transportation is that the system definitely has coverage gaps, so you may not be near enough to a metro stop for it to be useful for you.
Most expats use Uber a lot. It is also ridiculously cheap (fewer than $3 for most of my rides). But it’s not always convenient or reliable. Sometimes you might wait up to 20 minutes for a car. Often the driver calls you and wants to know your pick-up and drop-off location. Cancelled rides happen quite often. Drivers often can’t read maps, and are completely lost getting around neighborhoods when gates close after 10pm or finding residences since many neighborhoods are maze-like with completely non-logical house numbering systems.
Auto rickshaws (tuk-tuks) can be hailed on the streets. Taxi stands exist in near market areas. You’ll need to bargain HARD to avoid getting ripped off.
Most taxis/Ubers don't have functioning seatbelts. I never felt in danger in cabs or metro, even as a woman at night.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A small car will be more maneuverable on the narrow streets, but like most of the developing world, size rules on the road. I don’t have a car, although any family that doesn’t buy a car and have a driver is dumb.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Lots of options are available, although you’ll hear complaints about all of them. Mine was already installed before arrival.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Getting a SIM card as a foreigner is ridiculously annoying. It will likely be your first mind-numbingly-frustrating experience with illogical Indian bureaucracy. You need to show your visa, bring a photo, and provide proof of residence. SIMs don’t activate immediately. And even if you have a long-term diplomatic or business visa, don’t be surprised if you’re told you need to come to the store every three months to show your visa, because they will give you a tourist SIM only valid for three months and require physically seeing your visa before the SIM will be extended. On the plus side, plans are cheap.
Mobile cell reception has lots of dead zones throughout the country, including in Delhi and inside many of our homes, so functioning wi-fi is important.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
India requires various documentation to bring in pets. I had to provide advance documentation to gain provisional approval, and then had to provide a health certificate very close to arrival before getting the No Objection Certificate that I had to present at the airport; there is no quarantine required. There are several vets, including some that will do house calls. There are lots of street dogs and very little grass, so dog-walking could be a hassle.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Traditional Indian dress for women is the sari, which completely covers the legs and shoulders, but leaves your midriff bare. I think this presents a mind-bender for Westerners because a bare midriff for us is more scandalous than shorts and a tank top. Besides this seeming contradiction, Indian dress is conservative. Shorts, skimpy skirts and tops, tight-clothing, and excess exposed skin will garner you extra attention in public. So please don’t wear these clothes and then complain about being stared at! Office attire is accordingly conservative, and there are sadly a lot more suits than I expected in this hot climate. Indian clothing - for men and women, for foreigners and Indians - is very welcome in the workplace and in public. Expats have many opportunities for balls and receptions, so formal wear would come in handy. Although these are also perfect opportunities to wear Indian clothing, and get a specially-tailored outfit to take home as a souvenir!
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
As a woman, I was terrified of sexual harassment before coming here. But I haven’t had any bad experiences and feel safe going out on my own and taking Ubers alone late at night. Yes, Indian men stare at me more than I’d like, and I think my butt has been touched a few times on the dance floor at night clubs. But otherwise, I don’t feel threatened. Aside from maintaining situational awareness, I don’t worry about pickpockets or home break-ins.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You’ll probably get Delhi Belly here. I’ve been lucky and haven’t had any serious cases beyond mild diarrhea or gassiness. Medical care here is poor, so medevacs are common for many issues. There are several good dentists and orthodontists.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The Air Quality Index (AQI) is bad all year round. But most of us adjust our expectations so that AQI under 200 ain’t so bad! The really bad days of 200-400 AQI usually only occur between November-January. I have asthma and nasal allergies, but as long as I didn’t exercise outside when the AQI was over 200, I didn’t experience any overt health effects. It is dreary to see hazy skies most days, and then remind yourself that it’s not cloudy, it’s smoggy.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
If you’re allergic to dairy or eggs, you’re in luck, because all you have to tell the restaurant is that you are “pure veg” and you’ll be all set.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Some people can’t handle the three months of the year when the pollution is bad and they “can’t” go outside. Which is confusing to me because DC has three months of cold winter where people don’t go outside. So why is it so much harder here?
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and dry from April-May. Hot, humid, rainy June-August. Pleasant September-October. Cold pollution November-January. Pleasant February-March. Summers top 100 (38) degrees, winter evenings get down to 50 (10) degrees . Pleasant season hovers more in the 80s (20s).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American, British, French ... there are many options.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Various options, run by international and local organizations.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are tons of expats. Diplomats, businessfolk, people who have married Indians and decided to stay here. You’ll meet expats who have just arrived and others who have been here years and years. You may have to search a bit until you find “your” expats that you’re most comfortable with to meet your social needs, but if you search, you will find them! Morale is pretty good overall. Even among the people who say they don’t like Delhi that much, most are still able to appreciate the positive aspects of the Delhi expat experience and make the most of it. And if you meet people who are too negative for you, dump them, and find others who are more on your wavelength!
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is SO MUCH to do in Delhi. Anyone who is bored here, or says there’s nothing to do, isn’t looking hard enough. And, you may have to look. There’s no perfect one-stop resource to learn about all the possible activities, groups, or clubs in Delhi. If you have a certain interest, you should Google it and ask everyone you meet if they know about it. Eventually, you’ll find it. I recommend InterNations as a way to make some initial contacts, although many expats only go to a few events before deciding that the audience is often very Indian-heavy and single-male-heavy. But if I meet one interesting person at an event, I count that as a success! Sports are a great way to meet people, and there are plenty to choose from - frisbee (Ultimate), soccer, rugby, softball, Gaelic football, ice hockey, etc. The British, Canadian, and American embassies host a dart league that is open to all – diplomats, expats, and locals. There’s a Gin Club organized by some Aussies – you have to find a current member to recommend your membership. A lot of socializing revolves around eating and drinking, which is also a great way to experience Delhi’s many restaurants and bars.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It’s best for couples. There’s plenty to do and singles won’t get bored, but dating could be challenging in the fish-bowl expat environment. And even more treacherous with locals who may just like the cache of dating a foreigner or may never take a relationship with a foreigner seriously because they always intend to marry the person their family chooses. There are not a lot of specifically family-friendly activities, so families need to make their own routines and put together playdates. I don't have kids though, so a parent would have better intel on family fun.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
While there’s plenty to do socially, and Delhi expats will accept and welcome you, homosexuality only recently became legal and is definitely not accepted by most Indians.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It takes a bit of work along with patience, openness, confidence, and forwardness on your part, but once you make initial in-roads, Indians will be warm, loyal, generous friends. I think there is a lot more prejudice within Indian society than towards any foreigners.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
In my opinion, there is tons of prejudice within Indian society. Whiter skin is better than black. Vegetarian is better than meat-eaters. Hindu is better than all other religions. Also, India seems to have a huge chip on its shoulder as a perpetual victim who has never been given its due on the world stage.
In my opinion, women are treated like dirt. As a woman, don’t be surprised to speak and have the taxi driver, salesman, any random Indian male, completely ignore you, ESPECIALLY if a man is with you because good women know that they should be quiet and let the man speak for them.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
My favorite trips were to Udaipur, Mumbai, and Goa. There’s something about Udaipur that’s a bit more charming and relaxed than the other Rajastani cities. Mumbai is a great urban weekend trip. Goa is a relaxed beach getaway.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The one month a year (usually February-ish) when the Mughal Gardens of the Presidential Palace are open is really worth a visit. It’s free, even though you may have to wait in line, or reserve in advance, but they are really beautiful!
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Frankly, I’ve been disappointed with Indian handicraft and souvenir buying options. I expected to be overjoyed by the options but have instead been underwhelmed. Many of the items at “melas” (that’s the local name for a craft fair) are bland, imported, manufactured, boring. I’ve bought a decent amount of jewelry and clothing. I like the white marble items – picture frames, soap dishes, small boxes, etc. Lots of people buy carpets, but I think those are imported from Pakistan or Afghanistan.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
There are tons of people to meet, tons of activities to try, tons of restaurants to sample.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Before arriving, I read/heard a lot about Delhi being overwhelming – so much noise, activity, aroma, people, poverty, spice, etc. I haven’t been overwhelmed by Delhi. But I’ve found it requires an incredible amount of patience to thrive here. Even if you’ve lived overseas before, you MUST give yourself time to settle in and figure India out. Be patient with yourself, be patient with others, and you will save yourself a lot of stress.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I came here because of my job, not because of the city. I wouldn’t choose to live in Delhi again. But I’ve enjoyed myself despite Delhi. If I found myself back here again, I’m sure I would again find a way to embrace the good and let go of the bad.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Dreams of finding your inner self. I honestly think India has done a poor job of catering to tourists, beyond fancy advertising campaigns and luxury hotels. But one thing they have done very well is somehow sell the idea to the West that India is a place of zen, yoga, spirituality, namaste, karma where you can come here for a visit and emerge a changed person. That is NOT India. That’s the advertising of the over-priced mountain retreat that’s laughing all the way to the bank with the thousands of dollars you’ve given them to sit in silent lotus position for seven days straight. The real India is loud, dirty, disorganized, messy, and a frustrating mix of lackadaisical inaction followed by urgent frenzy. Bring your yoga mat if that’s your thing. But only expect it to stretch your legs, not your mind.
4. But don't forget your:
Blinders. A strategy that’s worked for me is to focus on what I’m doing, where I’m going, what I need, what I can control, and then ignore all the noise around me. Some expat women feel uncomfortable that Indian men stare at them. This is not a concern for me because I simply don’t pay them any mind. I maintain my situational awareness, of course, but I don’t look up at the group of guys I pass by to see if they’re looking at me. I keep looking straight ahead, focused on my destination. I find this has been helpful for my entire Indian experience. Focus on my destination, my goal, the end result instead of getting caught up by every bump along the way.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
“Delirious Delhi: Inside India’s Incredible Capital” by Dave Prager. An expat travelogue on one year living and working in Delhi. Very funny, and you will repeatedly say to yourself “OMG, that happened to me too!”
“Freedom at Midnight” by Larry Collins. Long, detailed book focused on the before, during, and after of partition in 1947. But, man, it really illuminated the political and societal landscape of Delhi for me.
“Shantaram” by Gregory David Roberts. Semi-autobiographical novel set in Mumbai. So it won’t tell you anything about Delhi. But it’s still insightful about India and making your way as an expat here…plus it’s a great story!
