Tema, Ghana Report of what it's like to live there - 12/19/06
Personal Experiences from Tema, Ghana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First expat experience as a resident.
2. How long have you lived here?
Almost three full years, since January 2004, but on a regular annual basis since 1990.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Retiree.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
From the U.S., New York and Baltimore now have direct flights, about 11 hours. A bit long, but the lack of a stop-over is a huge bonus!
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most expats have private homes within walled compounds. Accra is getting very crowded and many communities are springing up on the outskirts, about an hour's drive from Accra.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get pretty much anything you want or need, but not necessarily when you want or need it. Stores stock items from overseas without any regular schedule. One day it may be there, next day, finished. All of the big expat stores like Koala, Max Mart, or Sotrec in Accra, Evergreen in Tema are expensive. Buy fresh vegetables and fruits at local markets for fairly small money. One excellent buy is fresh bread from Vasillis for about US$1 a loaf. Beef at the big stores is also priced fairly well, about US$2-$3 a lb for an amazing array of cuts, from minced to eye round, and even osso bucco. Fresh chicken can be expensive, surprisingly, but Darko Farms has at least got chicken breast for about $3 a pound.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Good quality kitchenware including pots and pans, sheets and bed clothes, towels, etc. A single top-of-the-line frying pan could cost US$100 here, a cutting board $10. Because we're on 220 voltage here, it doesn't make sense to ship things you've got to plug in, unless you want to have transformers all over the house. You can buy appliances and stuff here, expensive, but easier in the long run.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Frankies is okay, but expensive (comparatively), but Papaye is also pretty good.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help easily obtainable. Cooks, house girl, gardeners, drivers, etc. The going rate is about US$1.50 - $3.00 a day.
2. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I wouldn't. My one time use of a credit card in Ghana at a well respected travel agent caused a giant hassle when a computer and software were then purchased with my card number. Fortunately, my credit card company intercepted and reached me in time to prevent the purchase and closed the account number. Trust me, not even in a big five-star hotel would I use my US credit card.
3. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, almost every church has services in English and a local language. Be ready for 3-4 hour church services, though: it's not like in the US where they want to get you in and out for the next service.
4. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Lots of English language papers, though I wouldn't say they are quality. Online access is better. TV stations broadcast BBC, CNN, and recently Aljazeera.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is spoken by pretty much everyone except very elderly people. It is the official language and it is used in school. If you can pick up a couple of the local words or sayings, all the better. Knowing local greetings and pleasantries would be nice.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Major difficulties. The government has recently adopted a Disabilities Act, but it will take many years before public facilities can accommodate people with disabilities. Getting around town is almost impossible, as there are no sidewalks.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Drive on the right, though always be careful. Taxi and trotro drivers are constantly swerving to avoid potholes and apparently would rather crash into oncoming traffic!
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are affordable, but I can't vouch for safe. While vehicles require road-worthiness testing, it ain't like the US, and you can bribe your way to the window sticker. Local trains are almost non-existent, real buses are fairly new on the scene, maybe the last 2 years or so. Local transport is mini-vans and vans called trotros that may not be safe, but are incredibly cheap to ride.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We've got a Nissan Quest. Almost impossible to get parts for it. Local mechanics usually jury-rig fittings for us when we need it. Labor and mechanics though are generally very very cheap. Insurance is not what you've come to expect in the US. You insure the car, not the drivers, and the cost is probably less than $100 a year.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Broadband through Ghanatelecom is about US$60 a month with US$100 installation. Not terribly fast, but not terrible.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Lots of choices, Areeba, Tigo, OneTouch. The phones themselves start at about US$40, and a SIM chip with personal phone number is only a few bucks, with refill cards about $7.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
If you've got a landline in your house, then with a GT phone card, you can make international phone calls for a long while, easily over an hour, for about US$7. Cell phones are also okay to use and, really, not expensive like they would be in the U.S.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Kennel, maybe not, but you can find vets around and there is a veterinary hospital in Accra that is government-owned.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, but most of them would have been already gotten from the US.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Proper dress, though not necessarily suit and tie. Modest attire I guess best describes it. Fridays are casual and local wear day.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Fair, but I've experienced worse in the U.S.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Armed robbery in some remote areas does happen. The problems with the power grid also can be an issue if you've got no alternate power to keep your lights lit at night. Basically, a safe place to live, though you should exercise normal caution as you would anywhere.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Typical concerns, malaria mostly. You can't take long-term medicine and have to rely on preventative measures, rather, like nets and repellent, etc. Hospitals are not state-of-the-art, as some in the States, but 37 Military Hospital is one of the best, and probably would suit an expat best for the quality of care. You can get most medicines here without prescription, I've gotten Zyrtec for my allergies (which about killed me the first year here... different growing seasons), and even an asthma inhaler (also from my new found allergy problem). You'll miss the ability to walk around in a CVS-style drug store, as you must ask for pretty much everything.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Rainy sometimes, hazy other times, hot most of the time.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
GIS and Lincoln are the main expat schools, but my kids go to Soul Clinic International, which has an excellent curriculum. There have been recent problems with tuition though, which has doubled in the past year, to about about $700 a term per student (3 terms per year). The school is not big; campus is small; but the teachers are eager, willing, and able.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Most schools are ill-equipped to handle special-needs kids.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Available throughout, many Montessori-style schools around.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Fairly large, but Americans are not well-organized online to find them. You've got to just hang out in the local restaurants and clubs to track em down.
2. Morale among expats:
Fairly high. Misery loves company, and it's nice to laugh and complain (in the same breath), about life in Ghana.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Restaurants, swimming, some clubs, some tourist-y destinations.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Okay all around, though probably most difficult for a single female. My family of 5, including 3 small kids below the age of 11, is enjoying life here.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Like the U.S. army: Don't ask, don't tell. Officially it's illegal.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not like in other countries. Never an issue for me as an obruni (white foreigner). Ghanaians are generally very accepting and tolerant.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Beaches are fun, hotel pools, travel to Akosombo or Volta region, Aburi, Kakum National Park, Mole for the very adventurous.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Beads, carvings, fabric.
9. Can you save money?
It depends. Eat locally, save big time. Insist on restaurants and fast food, forget it. Learn to cook from scratch, no more Prego or Ragu, try fresh tomatoes, onions, garlic, tomato paste, fresh basil and parsley, etc. Drink local beer, forget diet soda. Utilities are comparatively cheap. Gas is expensive, though, and the problem of lack of infrastructure and congestion lead to very long traffic jams.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Oh, yeah.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Obsessive compulsive need for punctuality; Ghanaians live and work on something called Ghanaian time, meaning if you're meant to be somewhere at noon, then ANY time after noon is also okay. Love of American sports: not happening here. You better start liking soccer. Expectation for decorum and quiet introspection at a funeral. Ghanaians LOVE funerals; the wailing, the music, the food, the beer, the music, the camaraderie, the fighting, the music. Oh, did I say music already. Yes, loud, mind numbing, ear splitting, heart thumping music from 6:00 am til the wee hours of the morning, and usually for about 3 days or so. Neighbors have a death in the family, watch for the poster, and plan on going away for the duration of the funeral party. Really.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor, inventiveness, adaptability, acceptability. Ability to improvise, improvise, improvise.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
7. Do you have any other comments?
Remember, Ghana is still a third world country. They are trying very, very, hard, but change is slow and not consistent. There are hardships and challenges to someone who comes from a more privileged environment, so acceptance is the name of the game. On the plus side, Ghana has a stable democratic political system, the economy is stabilizing, the people are friendly and most are well educated. Give it a chance, and you'll grow to love it.
