Valparaiso, Chile Report of what it's like to live there - 07/22/06
Personal Experiences from Valparaiso, Chile
Background:
1. How long have you lived here?
One school year.
2. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Educator/principal exchange program.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
This is an easy flight from anywhere in the East coast. West coast may be on the long-ish side.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is very inexpensive by US standards. It is entirely possible to get a well-appointed, spacious house with a spectacular balcony overlooking the city for US$200 per month. Feel free to shop around, as well, as each area of the city provides different nuances and has a different feel. For those with more discerning tastes, Viña del Mar (some 10 minutes by train or bus) provides more upscale living where rents can be as high as US$2,000 per month, an almost unfathomable figure locally.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Food here is very inexpensive. Budget 30% of what you might in the U.S. As well, there are a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. Fish, if you like it, is also some 30% of US costs.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
SPICE! Chileans have no notion of anything with zest. The only cheese available locally is Gouda. Bring your cheddars, bring your Tabasco, and bring your spice rack. The food here turns from boring to wonderful with some hot sauce.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Chilean fast food is effectively one step up from baby food. Grilled cheese sandwiches, something reserved for tots in the US, are common fare here. U.S. fast food is near non-existent here, which is both a blessing and a curse. The age old debate, anti-imperialism versus one more sub-par meal.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very available and affordable. People with experience in other South American countries will be pleased at the effectiveness of their hired help, but amazed at the cost relative to everywhere else in S.A. Figure for 75% of the U.S. cost.
2. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I do so without reservations.
3. What English-language religious services are available locally?
4. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Suprisingly, there is quite a lot of English TV, as well as that of Spain, France, Germany, and Italy.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Effectively, Chileans do not speak foreign languages. Having said that, though, they are also naturally shy. It is often the case that in a group setting, at least one person will know some 50 odd words of English. If you are really in deep, ask if anyone speaks English. Also, Chilean Spanish is very different than other regions. Allow one week or more for adjustment to their (lack of) pronunciation.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This city would be near impossible for disabled people. There are no modifications to buildings and no sense that society should defer or assist. I would heavily discourage the physically disabled from Valparaiso.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Safe, but often in mild disrepair. It actually adds charm. Rather than rickety, per se, it adds a patina of the past. Make sure you use the bathroom before hand, though. In general, public transport is very, very cheap.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Valparaisois a maze of twisty, turny pre-industrial streets. I would suggest something small. Having said that, though, you will find all types of autos on the streets.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High quality and high cost pretty much sums it up.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
By paying out the nose for them. Simple as that.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Stray dogs and cats roam around everywhere. They are never threatening, but seem like pockets of communicable disease waiting to happen. Keep pets indoors!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Effectively, no. Language teaching takes place in Santiago, so one either commutes or uses a word of mouth system locally. Waitstaff positions are also available. Nothing higher up the food chain than that, I´m afraid.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Chileans are quite formal in all aspects of life. Dress formally, but also conservatively.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
In the winter, the pollution here is dreadful. Smog is a constant and pernicious problem. The hill communities (cerros, as they are known) still face smog, but to a much less severe extent
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Chileans are strange. EVERYWHERE I go, someone tells me it is unsafe. There are very parochial attitudes towards safety here, and I get the sense than people aren´t so much directing me away from harm as they might be bad-mouthing their neighbors. Valparaiso is one step above warring fiefdoms when it comes to slander.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Mostly temperate, with fog at times. Think central England or Oregon.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The international schools here are of a high standard. However, they may cause integration problems for youth. If you are here for a while, long enough that integration might be a factor, consider a local school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are many facilities around here, known as jardins enfantils, which perform this service. I´ve not had the need to require this service, and as such I cannot comment on their quality.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Seemingly small. Most are between 18-25 with study abroad programs.
2. Morale among expats:
Seemingly high. Although a touch boring, Chile is a delight.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Social options exist in great numbers here, but lack the brass of say, Argentina. It´s like watching salsa dance in Sweden: the steps are right, but the results lack vibrancy.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a terrific city for families. Chileans love babies! They have set up a permanent park on Yunguay.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Chileans are very discrete. Perhaps not out of necessity, as in the Arab world, but more out of a cultural sense of reservation. Gay life does exist here, but it is not instantly recognizable to the naked eye.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Slight paternalism, perhaps, towards women.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There is a recent resurgence of civic pride here, meaning the city is awash with art, plays, festivals etc. The city itself has a great number of distractions as well. Everything one would expect from a major university town plus the addition of general sightseeing. The entire down town in a UNESCO world heritage center and is quirky charming. Having said that, though, Chileans themselves tend to be rather reserved, even to the point of being boring. You, often, will have to be the impetus in social situations.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Locally produced wine. It gives France a run for the money and it costs around US$2.
9. Can you save money?
Yes. Chile isn´t cheap, but it isn´t expensive either. Moreover, Chileans love deals and they aren´t tough to find.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Hmmm. I would take Argentina or Brazil first, but yes, I would still go. Unlike most of S.A., Chile has a first-world standard of living. It´s nice to know things will work when they say they will. It´s nice not to have to wait until 6 for the 5 o´clock train. However, if you are a person who would trade comfort for zest, Chile isn´t the best option. The perennial bridesmaid, perhaps.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Romantic notions of South America. This place has more in common with a sleepy English county capitol than it does with Rio.
3. But don't forget your:
Love of art!vIt´s abundant and amazing! Don´t forget layers, as well. While never very cold or warm, the temperature at the bottom of a hill feels chillier than after walking up that hill.
