Ottawa, Canada Report of what it's like to live there - 01/11/13
Personal Experiences from Ottawa, Canada
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC is a 90-minute flight away. Ottawa has non-stop flights to New York, Chicago, Charlotte, DC, Boston, Detroit, Ft. Lauderdale, Orlando, and Philadelphia. So, you'll need to connect through one of those cities or Montreal or Toronto.
3. How long have you lived here?
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
(The contributor is affiliated with the U.S. Embassy and has been living in Ottawa for a year, a fifth expat experience.)U.S. Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Ottawa is an LQA post, so you find your own housing. It's up to you whether you want a house, apartment, townhouse, etc., and which neighborhood you want to live in. The allowance is pretty generous and should cover an appropriate-sized dwelling for your family. If you arrive before or after the summer transfer season, you will have a more limited selection, especially for houses, but you should be able to find something. Some arrivals arrange housing sight unseen to ease the transition, and GSO has info from several realtors who can help with that. Others take a trip on their own time/dime to house-hunt. If you don't have a place lined up to live when you first arrive, GSO will put you up in an extended-stay hotel for up to 60 days while you find a place to live. Finding a place can be stressful, but it's also refreshing to be able to pick out exactly what you want and where you want it after having housing issues at other posts.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find most U.S. products in Ottawa but with less variety, like three types of Cheerios instead of eight. Prices are higher for most items and especially for dairy and poultry. Ogdensburg, NY is about an hour away and has a Walmart and Pricechoppers grocery store, so you can get any U.S. product there. The only things that are hard to find are region-specific products. U.S. memberships at Costco work at the Costcos here in Ottawa.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Few. Maybe a couple of liquors and grocery products that I can't find here, but you can get almost anything you need here. It'll just cost a bit more.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Most U.S. chains are present. Subway, McDonald's, Burger King, etc. They even have a Five Guys now. There are also several Canadian chains. Generally restaurants are pretty good, but expect to pay 10-30% more than in the U.S.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None, really.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Post has a P.O. box and physical address in New York that embassy personnel can use. That means fewer restrictions on mail. You can order liquids, gadgets with lithium batteries, etc. The mail room makes mail runs 3x/week and every weekday for several weeks before Christmas. Canadian post is reliable but more expensive than U.S. post.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I'm not sure. I suspect that you could get a cleaning service, but prices would be as expensive or more expensive than in the United States.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. The U.S. Embassy has a smallish gym that costs $150/yr. There are multiple private gyms around town and prices are a little higher than U.S. gyms. The two that come to mind are the Goodlife chain with multiple locations around town and The Athletic Club.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Easy to use and plenty of ATMs around. Canadian cards are Chip and Pin, so sometimes I get a funny look when they have to swipe mine, but that's all. You will need to open a Canadian bank account to pay your rent, utility bills, etc.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, just about anything you could want.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. A few over the air stations, cable, satellite, etc. Cable includes U.S. stations from Detroit or Buffalo. Costs are a bit more than in the U.S. and you can bundle with phone and internet like in the United States. The main providers are Bell and Rogers.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Ottawa is officially bilingual in French and English, but you don't really need French to survive. It comes in handy in Gatineau, QC though.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not too many. I haven't paid very close attention, but most buildings seem to be built to similar standards as U.S. buildings.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, they are safe. A bus ticket for an adult costs C$2.60 each way.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Almost any U.S. car would be serviceable here and would not draw too much attention. Roads are in generally good condition, so no specific cars required for that. Parts and service are likely to be more expensive, but if you know what you need you can order it and the mail room will bring it up. Some warranties will apply in Canada, but check with the manufacturer for specifics. Snow tires are not required in Ontario, but many people have them. You can order online and the mail room will bring them up from NY. A set of 4 with wheels cost about $800 for my car. The CLO will organize a winter-for-newbies session with briefings from GSO, RSO, Motorpool, etc. on how to prepare your house and car for winter.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, and pretty reliable. There are a variety of options depending on speed and GB of data you want each month. I pay about $60/mo for my package.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy issues phones to officers. There are a variety of prepaid options and contract options available through the embassy, too. I have heard that you can get a U.S./Canada plan through AT&T or Verizon if you want to, but I just use Vonage for calling back to the U.S.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. Officially you need a rabies vaccination certificate, but no one bothered to look at them when I brought my pets into Canada. I drove up from DC, though, and did not go through an airport.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes, good vet care is available. Pet supplies are plentiful and similar quality to U.S. pet supplies.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I'm not sure. A lot of jobs here require English and French, so that could be a stumbling block.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Similar to the U.S. but perhaps a bit more casual overall.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None at all. There are some petty crime issues, but usually it's things like items stolen from unlocked cars. Ottawa had something like 7 murders in all of 2012.My U.S. hometown is 1/2 the size of Ottawa and had 3x as many murders last year.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No specific medical concerns to the region. The embassy has a medical unit staffed by a local nurse practitioner. Local care is good, but U.S. embassy personnel are not part of the Ontario health insurance system, so getting in to see GPs and specialists can be difficult. Many people go to Ogdensburg, NY or further into the U.S. for care whenever possible.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good. There's little to no pollution in this area.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Ottawa has four distinct seasons. Summer is beautiful with some hot/muggy days. Fall is nice with the beautiful changing leaves and crisp air. Winter is brutal with lots of snow and temperatures that can easily get down to -20F. Spring is transitional but beautiful once the snow and ice have melted and the city has cleaned up after it.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I do not have kids, but there are a couple of schools here that people use. I honestly don't know how well people do or don't like them.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Not sure. We blend in pretty well here, so I don't rely on the expat community too much. There are lots of embassies, multinational companies, etc so I suspect it's decent sized.
2. Morale among expats:
It depends. A lot of people like it for the high quality of life, but some people are frustrated by being more on their own with LQA, drivers' licenses, license plates, etc. after serving at multiple posts where the embassy handled those things for them. As always, the dynamics of your specific office can also affect morale.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots to see and do. Entertaining is similar to the U.S. in a mix of entertaining at home, in restaurants, etc. It's very easy to make friends with locals, so it's easy to have a nice social life.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think that there's something here for everyone. There are lots of family friendly things to do here. There's a decent amount of things to do for singles and couples, though it's not a bustling metropolis like Toronto or Montreal.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. Canada is pretty accepting in general and I believe that Canada allows gay marriage and for gay Canadians to petition for visas for their spouses/partners.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not to my knowledge. Canada is pretty accepting and progressive.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trying winter sports, having such a normal life, cultural events and festivals, Canadian friends.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Gatineau park for hiking, snow shoeing, cross country skiing. Lots of museums. The RCMP training facility. Skating on the canal. Side trips to Toronto and Montreal.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Winter wear. Inuit and First Nations crafts. Maple syrup (yum!!).
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Proximity to the United States, travel in Canada, nearby natural parks, friendly neighbors/coworkers/contacts, museums, green space, etc. A regular P.O. box instead of pouch so there are fewer restrictions on mail.
11. Can you save money?
Yes. Most everything here is more expensive than in the U.S. but your rent is paid for you so unless you have visions of grandeur, you should be able to save well.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I love it here. It's so nice to have a normal life here, to be able to make friends and not second guess their motives or feel wildly out of place socioeconomically, and to be relatively close to friends and family in the United States.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Nothing. It's an LQA post, so you'll need your furniture and everything.
3. But don't forget your:
Savings for your first few months at post. You'll have a lot of up front expenses and it can take a few pay periods for your LQA to kick in.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Unless you've got a lot of winter experience, do some thinking ahead of time, but wait until you get here to order winter gear. Talk to locals and embassy people who have been here a couple of years to see what you really need and what you don't. That way, you'll spend less money on things you don't actually need.
