Montreal, Canada Report of what it's like to live there - 12/23/09
Personal Experiences from Montreal, Canada
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, lived in Kinshasa, DRC (Sept 2005-Sept 2007).
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It's a one-hour flight from Washington DC; quick, easy, but sadly not inexpensive. It is smarter to fly into Burlington, VT and drive up at a savings of often several hundred dollars.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years (Jan 2008-Jan 2010).
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US government - State Department.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I lived in Westmount, a very wealthy neighborhood less than a mile from downtown. It was literally a 5-minute commute. I suspect the suburbs are much longer. A word of warning: Montreal drivers are the MOST dangerous I have ever encountered. The road rage is unbelievable, and no-fault insurance means that no one particularly cares if they hit a parked car or bump someone on the road. For the first time in my life, after driving all over North America and Africa, I was literally afraid on the roads.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is 25-50% more expensive than across the border, and for no discernible reason. I suspect that Canadian businesses just jack up the prices because they have a captive customer base. Simply transporting a can of dog food across the border cannot explain it being double the cost. A quart of milk costs what a gallon does in the States. And grocery and other stores will have strange stock problems. Like one day, you'll go to the grocery store and there is no salted butter. Just none. Also, it's a bit like the French system, where you don't really have full-service grocery stores. You have to go to the pharmacy for household products and cosmetics, the hardware store for cleaning supplies, and the grocery store for food.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None. You can drive across the border and buy them in the US.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
I'm not a big foodie, so I only have limited experience, but Montreal is a foodie city. There are so many restaurants here -- it's a wonder they can stay in business. Lots of price ranges and menus.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None. Hardly ever even saw a mosquito.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Via US mail through the consulate. I used Canada Post for local mail without incident. Tell friends and family shipping things from the US not to use UPS to Canada. On a $40 package, there was a $20 customs charge the one and only time I used them (did not happen with Canada Post).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I had a cleaning lady who came once/week for $70. She was a maid at a hotel where I stayed, and I asked if she'd like some work on the side.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Readily available. I used the Westmount city programs, and they were excellent.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No problems at all.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, everywhere.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, everywhere. Same cost as French.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
In Montreal, you can get by entirely in English. Outside of Montreal, it's much better to have French.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It's really a walking city and not very friendly for disabled people. There are few metro stations with elevators, and the whole city slopes from Mt. Royal down to the river, so there are a lot of steep streets.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Depends. A monthly pass on the metro is almost obscenely cheap - less than $70/month no matter where you go. A single ticket is ridiculously expensive - nearly $3.00, even if you're only riding one stop.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I have a Honda CRV which was fantastic for driving out of piles of snow. I would strongly recommend not having a low-to-the-ground car if you have to park it on the street during winter.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, $40/month. Again, do not use Bell Canada.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Do not, under any circumstances, use Bell Canada. They are the worst company I have ever dealt with in the entire world. Customer service is awful. In two years, I had to make over 100 calls for billing errors, service outages, etc. Not once did I get assistance on the first call - I often had to call 3-5 times to finally get someone to actually do what they said they would. And the average time on the phone for any call was more than 40 minutes.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. The border officers didn't even want to see their rabies certificates.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I cannot say enough good things about the vets in Montreal. They are extraordinarly knowledgeable, caring, and just amazing. I owe the life of my pets to the Animal Health Clinic in NDG and the Rive Sud Emergency Hospital. I've also found wonderful pet sitters when I needed to be out of town, mostly through Craig's List.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Same as any North American city.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Good; same as any North American city. Not the cleanest city I've ever visited - lots of trash in the center of town. For two weeks in the spring, when the snow melts and all the garbage that's been thrown on it for months melts, too, the city smells like the third world.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Lots of car break-ins. I wouldn't even leave a pair of sunglasses in a car. If you mount a GPS suction on your window, you might as well put a flashing neon sign on the top of your car to have it broken into. Hundreds, probably thousands, of windows get smashed for computer bags, purses, etc. Don't leave ANYTHING in you car.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
If you are not covered by Quebec medicare, you must pay cash at a pay clinic for service. It was $150 each time I went to the doctor, but I received excellent service
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Six months of winter, some of it brutally cold (negative 30F or more windchill); very mild summers; long falls which stay reasonably warm -- often into early December; very short springs. I grew up in a very cold, dry climate, and the cold here was beyond anything I had ever experienced.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. Enormous. Probably 20,000 Americans in Montreal at any given time. Thousands of Europeans and other expats as well.
2. Morale among expats:
Good if you like to party. Pretty bad if you don't. Especially during the winter months, people really get closed off. If you are not part of a social circle, it can be very isolating. I would say more than half the people at the consulate have not had a good experience here - and it's largely because it's a big, rude city where people (at least in public spaces) treat each other with zero consideration. Basic courtesies - holding doors open, letting people get off the metro before you get on, saying excuse me - are simply not part of public life here. It can make the already depressing cold absolutely demoralizing. During the short summer months, people literally become more outgoing and friendly. It's like a different city, and it feels better to be here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I've mentioned this above, but it is just really, really hard to meet people. Rarely will a stranger strike up a conversation, or even acknowledge your existence -- even if you see them literally every day in the same neighborhood. It took probably 18 months for me to develop real friendships with locals. Once I did, they were wonderful, loyal, friendly people, but it was very difficult.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It seems like a fantastic city for single people who like to go out. Otherwise, it can be very difficult to meet people and make friends. Once you do, though, they're great friends. It's just really difficult to break down the barriers.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No direct experience, but from everything I've heard, it's one of the best cities in the world for gay and lesbian expats.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not particularly. There is, however, the ever-present French/English split. I didn't notice it much when I first got here, but the longer I was here, the more apparent the prejudices on both sides became. Also, it is not a particularly religious city -- it's filled with Catholic churches that only the old people attend.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Anything you want, just like any North American city. I would strongly recommend getting out of Montreal and seeing the spectacular Quebec countryside - both the beautiful townships to the east of Montreal and the amazing Quebec wilderness going northeast along the St. Lawrence.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Local painters and other local artists.
9. Can you save money?
Of course. Just like anywhere, it depends on whether you spend your time shopping, eating out, and traveling. There are wonderful things to do here that cost very little, just like anywhere. But everyday items are very expensive.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not. I love to be outdoors walking with my dog, and this is really not a terribly dog-friendly place. You can't take them to restaurants, or on college campuses, or to about half of all parks. Montreal (like a lot of big eastern cities) is a place for people who like nightclubs and restaurants, not walking paths and open spaces.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Bikini. There have been approximately 20 days over 80'F in the 2 years I've lived here.
3. But don't forget your:
snow boots, warm coat, and long underwear. Remember: 6 months of winter. Oh, and bringing one of those light lamps that treat seasonal depression would be useful.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Non
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Montreal has been very challenging for me. I struggled for a long time with the lack of community and difficulty making friends. If I had written this post 8 months ago, it would have been almost uniformly negative. However, having finally made Canadian friends and experiencing their incredible generosity and kindess, I see that it's really just about being here long enough to integrate (something difficult for expats).
