Montreal, Canada Report of what it's like to live there - 08/25/12
Personal Experiences from Montreal, Canada
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
13 years in Foreign Service, 6th posting. And extensive travel prior to FS as well.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Maine, a 6-hour drive.
3. How long have you lived here?
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Consulate General.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
LQA. Pretty good options. Of course, one has to keep within the size limitations, but that is generally do-able.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Probably around 10-20% more expensive than in the U.S. Many of us stock up every few weeks across the border for big staples, as well as clothing. Everything is available here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing really comes to mind, as you can get anything you want here or across the border. And as this is an LQA post, you'll be sent your entire household effects.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Every possible type of food, all budgets. A paradise for this.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Very few. They can't survive the winters.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The U.S. Consulate has a mail run to the US two times a week, or you can just use the excellent Canada Post. Or when you cross border on shopping trip, mail it there.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
No direct experience, but I understand in the range of around Ca$10-15 per hour.(The Canadian dollar hovers around par with the US dollar.)
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
All over.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Every form of payment is acceptable here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, all over, many many religions. Remember, this is one of the most international cities in the world.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, via cable TV. Very accessible. Also these can received cross-border (Vermont, NY) stations.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Within greater Montreal, generally none. English is spoken by virtually everyone, and at least I have never detected any big issue/sensitivity around this issue. Of course, the more the better, and people appreciate any effort. The more you get out of greater Montreal, the less and less people speak or want to speak English. The more you get into the core area of Montreal, the more bi-lingual it is. And there are distinct neighborhoods here where it is more English or more French speaking.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I think it is on par with most U.S. cities, generally speaking. A big exception that I'm aware of is that the otherwise great metro system does not have any easy access.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Totally available, and moderately priced. I've used them all.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Generally just as in the U.S. However, and while there are many many big SUVs all over, you might consider bringing a not-so-large-car, just to better navigate the traffic and downtown. But a large SUV would be not a big issue if that is what you prefer.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Very available, usually as part of the internet/cable/cell phone package. For internet and cable package, maybe around CAN$110/month or so, depending on specific preferences.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
That is a bit tricky. Some U.S.-based folks arrive using their already existing U.S. phone and plan, and simply update their plan to Canada-based residence. But check the rates. There are a few Canada-based options as well. This will be a personal choice, depending on your own calling profile (many calls to US, or not, etc.). Also, you will likely be issued a work phone. A tip: in the Eaton shopping center downtown (and I suspect in other places) there is a store that can offer phones/plans from all the different local cell companies, depending on your own demands. Not unusual at all here to see Americans (and Canadians) walking around with 2 or 3 phones, owing to this complicated situation.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. Just have reasonable amount of papers/shots at the ready to show border folks.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Great. Very much a strong pet culture here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No direct experience. Decent French is usually going to be required, or at least a big plus, but not always. Plus, there are some distinct pockets of more French and more English-speaking areas of Montreal, so if you do not speak French, you could work in the more English area. If you're the spouse of a diplomat, you can get a work permit. Some spouses here have a jobs in the U.S. with tele-commute arrangements.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Generally on par with major U.S. cities, with perhaps a slight French culture-inspired flair/pizzaz thrown in.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The usual in a big city: some purse snatchers, some car thieves, but pretty minor. Very few violent crimes.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
I could write many paragraphs about the whole medical care issue. Of course, the whole issue of the Canadian health system is always in the news, and there are opinions and experiences all over the map. I suspect every person and family will have different experiences. And I suspect that some people would take some issue with what I write, below.
Using the local health care system presents some problems, even if you're a fully subscribed Canadian. On the one hand, yes, there is (theoretical) universal care. That translates to waiting periods and some rationed care.
Most official Americans here (with the exception of one couple that I know of) are not using the local system. Most people will simply go to a private doctor here or across the border. If you want to opt into the Canadian system, you pay some kind of monthly fee, (but I do not have those details). If you use a local doctor, you later get reimbursed (by BC/BS, or whatever insurance company), and get back maybe around 85% of the cost.
What we do is simply go across the border to Plattsburgh, NY, a 70-minute trip, door to door, and pay a co-pay only. We do most of our routine appointments there, for pediatrician, OBGYN visits, etc. For any urgent care, or if you want to see a doctor and do not want to drive across the border, you can go to a local clinic here. But you could wait anytime from 1-4 hours (especially if it is not super urgent). Again, we just bill this to BC/BS, and get around 85% back. A typical visit to such a clinic is around $150, and the quality is excellent. Some people find going across the border to go to a clinic to be quicker than waiting at a clinic here. Dental care here is great, and we've all used local dentists. Waiting/access is not an issue. Prices are about the same as in the U.S.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally okay.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hey, this is Canada. The winters are quite long and cold. Summer is surprisingly humid. Spring and fall are best - blustery and energizing, I find.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We have one child in middle school. There is no "American school" here, but here are several excellent private schools to choose from. Most, if not all, the expats I know are quite satisfied with them. Are they all perfect? No. And you want to look into each one, in terms of relative strengths/weaknesses vis-a-vis academics, sports, competitive culture, etc.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
No direct experience, but I understand that this can be an issue, depending on the needs. Check into this before deciding to come. Another possible option would be to possibly live a bit west of Montreal, towards Ottawa, and possibly look into schools there, while working here. Ottawa is, depending on traffic, a 1.5-2 hour drive.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
All over.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. In the thousands, for sure.
2. Morale among expats:
Generally great, I think. I mean, if you're a miserable person, you'll be miserable everywhere.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Again, a world class city in this regard, if you want this option.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, fantastic cultural life.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Very much so. Very welcoming climate for this. Not an issue at all.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I do not think so. This is one of the most international, cosmopolitan cities in the world. Every nationality, ethnic and religious group is here.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing greater Quebec Province and other parts ofEeastern Canada; immersion in French culture.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Everything under the sun, and more: museums, every possible sport/activity, nature, etc.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nothing in particular. Local art and antiques could be an option.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Culture (nice combination of cosmopolitanism and outdoorsy-ness), French culture and language, great universities, close to U.S. shopping (upstate NY and Vermont are just over an hour away), good LQA housing choices.
11. Can you save money?
We've saved some. Again, it depends on your lifestyle.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, absolutely.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Can't think of anything in particular. Perhaps just the notion that this is going to be just like the U.S. It is not. On top of it being another country (Canada), it is also within a "unique" of sorts province, Quebec, with its own very particular history and culture. Having said this, it is really no problem. Come with an open mind, and you'll enjoy it. Also, for cryin' out loud, if you cannot tolerate rather long and cold winters, do not bid on this place! (The nice underground shopping area in the downtown can get old very quickly.) This advice should be obvious, but just in case . . .The winters are long and cold. One other thing - did I mention the LONG and COLD winters?!
3. But don't forget your:
Again, if you really need something, you can get it here or across the border.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Champlain's Dream
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Nothing in particular.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Like in any other post, what you get out of it largely depends on you and what you make of it. Also, much depends on your own situation in your life at the time you're here: family situation, work situation, health, one's expectations, etc. Montreal really offers a huge variety of opportunities and places to see and things to experience.
