Douala, Cameroon Report of what it's like to live there - 06/20/06
Personal Experiences from Douala, Cameroon
Background:
1. How long have you lived here?
20 months.
2. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomat attached to Yaounde, but resident in Douala.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Daily service on Air France, 3 times a week on SN Brussels and Royal Air Maroc.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Very nice housing. The Embassy house here in Douala was selected for entertaining.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There is a good supply of food and vegetables. Important vegetables from France expensive, like US$5.00 for a head of French lettuce. Local vegetables are good quality, and very inexpensive. Meat tends to be quite expensive, but with lots of variety. The Deluxe French butcher shop can charge up to US$30.00 for a fresh chicken. Expect to find everything, including boneless chicken breast, good quality steak.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
A dishwasher, when the maid is off. Lots of transformers of all kinds. Set of extra tires (but got them through the pouch).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Over 25 good expatriate level restaurants, including Japanese, Cambodian, Thai, French, Italian, and local exotic cuisine.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
US$100 to 200 dollars for full time. US$50 to 80 for part time (three times a week). We pay extra for help with parties.
2. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATM machines in Douala are common, safe and often provide a rate better than the U.S. (and sometimes less). It is my preferred method to obtain cash.
3. What English-language religious services are available locally?
4. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Local English newspaper and Herald Tribune, not sure of the cost. Local paper is inexpensive.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
For shopping, you need a bit french, Douala is located 30 minutes from the border of the South West English speaking province. Douala is the most bilingual city in Cameroon.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many barriers, very difficult, impossible for wheelchairs.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Drive to the right.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are only safe when taken from a formal hotel taxi stand, identified by the hotel staff. Motorcycle taxis are not safe, and there are frequent accidents. Intercity deluxe buses are safe and cost about US$16.00 between Douala and Yaounde, about a 3 1/2 hour trip. A new local bus system will start soon in both Douala and Yaounde.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Intercity roads are very good, however in the city of Douala and Yaounde, many rutted roads are better with a higher clearance vehicle, like a small SUV
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Good quality, from US$100 to 200 per month. No real difference in quality, between prices and companies. The more expensive company also offers telephone service VOIP with unlimited incomming from the U.S. and some other countries, at a slightly higher cost.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Both companies are pretty reliable. Voice mail message may or maynot arrive, texting is reliable. Small outages are common, but only anoying.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
The phone company is charging about 75 cents per minute at night however there is very little trust in their accounting. Detailed bills cost US$10.00 or more to produce by the phone company. Cell phone companies provide detailed bills and charge about 70 cents per minute to call the U.S. with perfect clarity. Many people use skype.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Vets provide good care (for our cat!).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Fluid French will probably be required for the better jobs. Jobs hard to find, its best to know someone to find a job.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For business, suits, for public a wide variety, from very casual to dressy.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Good.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Big city problems, little police interference. Houses must be fortified with grates, grates must be locked nightly.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Good medical services at Bonanjo Health clinic, no embassy support in Douala for medical. For the direct hires, they may travel to Yaounde to see the embassy health unit. Good pharmacies in Douala. Malaria is prevelent. Most expats prefer to swat and use mosquito nets, and do not take pills.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot humid, and a terrible rainy season. Most expats travel during the rainy season, just too depressing.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American School of Douala is affiliated with the Embassy (and embassy branch office here in Douala) - Grades 1 through 8 at the present 125 students at this time.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
None that I know of.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Several hundred, mixed English and French speakers
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Very good social with the expatriate community, good live music clubs, great restaurants.
3. Morale among expats:
In general good, but everyone looks forward to leaving evenually.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Very good, large expatriate English speaking community, large French expatriate community too.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, but very in the closet. Dance clubs allow for same sex couples, opposite sex couples, singles and groups to dance together, it is very free and accepting. Officially gays may be jailed, relations between Cameroonians and expatriates is dangerous and should be avoided at all cost. All gay and lesbian relations typically are between expatriats. In contrast Hetrosexual Cameroon expatriate couples are seen in a positive light.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not too much, however, typical that the locals view expatriates as rich.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Dance clubs, live music clubs (with great music).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Good art, the typical african art as well.
9. Can you save money?
Yes, if you cook at home, don't travel too much, South Africa is US$900 round trip from here!.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Very much so.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, except for one coat when traveling to a colder climate.
3. But don't forget your:
Lots of insect repellent, beach wear, umbrellas.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
For the Foreign service officer who is thinking about this post, it is not lonely, and it much more happening and more to do that Yaounde. The airport has frequent service, much more than Yaounde. Yaounde residents often travel to Douala to catch their flight. In Cameroon, this is the best city to be living in!
