Kabul, Afghanistan Report of what it's like to live there - 03/30/13
Personal Experiences from Kabul, Afghanistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Usual routing is Dulles direct to Dubai direct on United (14+ hours), with the inbound requiring an overnight in Dubai. Dubai to Kabul on Safi Air, which is not as bad as you'd expect.
3. How long have you lived here?
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
The contributor is affiliated with the US Government and has been in Kabul almost a year, a ninth expat experience.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
U.S. Embassy housing ranges from decent (apartments) to abysmal (older hooches). There is a big disparity. Bring your spouse for an EFM job, and you automatically get upgraded to an apartment, regardless of grade. Those living in the older hooches on the west side have miserable accommodations - small, loud, and wet/moldy. Those on the east side have far nicer hooches and easy access to the Duck and Cover bar. The apartments are far and away the best living situation. Off-post villas for most TDYers. Overall, the living conditions are better than the military have across the board. Also keep in mind that there is MAJOR construction going on at the embassy, affecting the quality of life. Expect that to be the case for 4-5 more years.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Poor quality goods for relatively high prices on the embassy compound. Military PXs have a better selection and are more reasonably priced.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
As little as possible. There is very little available storage, and you can get most of what you need here. Pack light!
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Pizza is available on the Embassy and ISAF HQ compounds.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes mainly.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, several. Unfortunately, most are poorly set up, and you can't get a full workout done in a single gym. Crossfit is like a religion on the compound.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are available on the Embassy, but they are out of money a good portion of the time.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I believe there are on ISAF.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
A mix of Indian channels and AFN for those living on the embassy compound.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Don't come! The design of the embassy compound requires someone to be able to navigate stairs. There is also the altitude and the frequency of donning PPE that would make it difficult for someone with any physical disability to manage.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but it is not good. Don't expect to stream video; and video chat is spotty. Facetime and Gmail chat work better than Skype here. The internet is also censored, so get a vpn before coming. Overall, the personal internet quality is a morale killer for me.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Government-issued for Embassy employees.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Jobs? Yes, some. Decent jobs? No. I would never recommend that a Westerner take the security risk of coming here unless affiliated with a government.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Depends on your position. It goes from business to tactical chic. This place is hell on clothing, though, especially shoes. Expect to toss whatever you bring at the end of your tour.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. This is an extremely dangerous city. Most people tend to discount the insurgent threat in Kabul, but it really is bad. Westerners are targeted for kidnapping for ransom.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Major issues are air quality, GI issues, and IEDs. But there is a very good med unit here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very poor, particularly in the winter, where particulate matter is in the air from every item imaginable being burned. Very toxic. Dust is heavy in the dry summer.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Wet and somewhat snowy winter. Dry, hot summer. The altitude prevents the temperature from climbing as high as it does in the desert-like South.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge.
2. Morale among expats:
Better than it should be. This is a really depressing place where the work often feels futile. I suppose the fact that the current crop of people here are determined to make the best of a bad situation is what makes it bearable. Overall, there is very little joy in Kabul, but people manage. I imagine this is a less-fun version of what Saigon felt like in 1974.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Again, most socializing revolves around the Duck or CLO events. There are some private parties in apartments. All-in-all, it is a very college-like scene, with a skewed gender ratio in women's favor.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Those here as a couple do well, providing they have a solid relationship and don't mind being cooped up together. Single females are a commodity here, and will do well if they are only looking for a casual relationship. Interactions socially with Afghans are negligible.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I can't speak from personal experience, but it is a big embassy with a fair-sized community.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Given the limited interaction with the local population for the majority of positions, it is not that big of an issue. Women are advised to dress modestly.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
You work with some generally good Americans. Otherwise, this has been my worst tour by a long shot, and this is not my first danger post.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Drink, work out, or buy over-priced items at the bazaar. There is a very serious volleyball league. The Duck and Cover is the main gathering point, but it has the feel of a very sketchy, predatory college bar. People mainly just try to make it to the next pay day, while counting down to R&R.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets. Gems. I don't trust the vendors enough to waste a lot of money in the bazaars though.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The pay and the ability to leave up to five times for 65 total days. There really are no redeeming qualities to this place.
11. Can you save money?
Yes. Unless you really go nuts on the R&Rs.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not. There are other danger posts that would have been far less miserable.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
sense that it will be just like Baghdad or Islamabad; or that you will be making a difference here. Also leave behind your 4th and 5th suitcases that you won't have room to store.
3. But don't forget your:
Body armor and tolerance for monotony and boredom.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and Bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001
The Great Game: On Secret Service in High Asia
There are multiple great books, but my memory fails me at the moment.
6. Do you have any other comments?
I would look to the I or P of AIP if you have to do a tour in this region. Herat is also significantly nicer from what I hear. This place has all the bureaucracy of Washington, DC, but it is in the middle of a war zone.
